2011 GMC Terrain 2.4L SLE : Overheating and no hot air blowing from heater core
- robert.lesaca
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"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
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- robert.lesaca
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- Andy.MacFadyen
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" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
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- John Curtis
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Noah wrote: I would perform a chemical head gasket test just to get that off the table.
Not to hijack the thread but I’m curious.
Other than speed...
Is there a benefit to the chemical test over a traditional compression test?
Making Pressure Differential Sensors (PDA Sensors) for pressure pulse diagnostics.
Currently servicing Central Texas.
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While a positive result is enough to condemn the engine in most cases, a negative is really just inconclusive.
"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
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I'm trying to save all the issues of this ecotec 2.4 engine, since where i live are getting old and out of warranty. Also these engines have bad reputation.
Is it right to say in order to rule out radiator inlet and oulet temperature should be more than 30 degress?
Cheers.
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- robert.lesaca
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Thanks
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- robert.lesaca
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Does a scanner agree with what the coolant temp gauge is saying? It's unlikely you have a lying gauge, just interested to know how hot the engine actually is when it's at 3/4.
Only overheats driving down the road? Suggests a coolant flow problem, but all your testing says otherwise. Any airflow issues across the condenser or radiator?
Has anyone tested the pressure bottle cap, or replaced it? Sounds somewhat like a system that never builds pressure.
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- robert.lesaca
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Im going nuts over this ecotec engine...worse Ive worked on. Im running out of options. Oh, btw, is it possible that a wrong thermostat positioning can be a possible cause?
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robert.lesaca wrote: Im going nuts over this ecotec engine...worse Ive worked on. Im running out of options. Oh, btw, is it possible that a wrong thermostat positioning can be a possible cause?
You mean, with the bleeder valve not pointed up? Or, did you mean installed backwards?
'Cause I figure the bleeder valve pointed down would just make bleeding the system the first time around more interesting. Backwards, I think the thermostat would just stay closed, and you'd be cooking the engine before you got down the block.
An incorrect/crappy thermostat, though, is a possibility. One that doesn't open fully, and acts as a restriction to coolant flow when it shouldn't. Any idea what brand got installed?
The flush helped? :huh: Any evidence of stop leak in the coolant? That might be why there's no heat, and why it runs hot.
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- Andy.MacFadyen
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I have also seen thermostats fitted upside down
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"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
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- robert.lesaca
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Based on some research I did, overheating is not a problem with this model of GMC. But if ever, the culprit lies mainly in the water pump area, specifically chain problem not turning pump properly..Thanks again !!!
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- robert.lesaca
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What puzzles me was the first shop that replaced the water pump did not mention any chain problem though they notice overheating and no hot air blowing out. Took it to another shop and they found a broken chain...customer satisfied with second shop job. Thank you for all inputs and comments given; much appreciated.
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I suppose then water pump wasn't rotating at all. Also, due to this engine has two balancer shafts attached to the same chain, engine was vibrating more than normal.
Cheers.
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