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2011 GMC Terrain 2.4L SLE : Overheating and no hot air blowing from heater core

  • robert.lesaca
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29 May 2019 16:14 #30222 by robert.lesaca
This is the same vehicle that had a CMP intake Solenoid/Actuator fault. This time the owner complained of sudden overheating. I test drove it and notice there was no hot air blowing too. She said ECT sensor, thermostat and a new water pump was installed and still nothing changed. There are no visible leaks; no DTCs; air blend actuator working fine; no visible hose leaks or broken; coolant level ok including at the reservoir. Any suggestions or similar problems? Thank you...

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30 May 2019 07:15 #30237 by Noah
I would perform a chemical head gasket test just to get that off the table.

"Learn, apply, repeat."

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30 May 2019 07:57 #30240 by robert.lesaca
Block test I guess is next...thanks Noah.

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30 May 2019 10:05 #30241 by PDM
Seeing the problem with that 2008 F150 reminded of something I’ve done before. Use a temperature gun and see if there are any cold spots on the heater core outlet or radiator. The cheap laser ones work. Also Flir makes one for a phone that is nice and not expensive
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31 May 2019 01:29 #30257 by Andy.MacFadyen
It really sound like a head gasket. BUT are the heater hoses getting warm as the engine starts to heat from.a cold start? Coolant circulation through the heater is important to ensure thermostat openning and I have seen choked heater cores causes over heating issues.

" Welcome to the 21st"


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31 May 2019 02:16 - 31 May 2019 05:07 #30258 by John Curtis

Noah wrote: I would perform a chemical head gasket test just to get that off the table.


Not to hijack the thread but I’m curious.
Other than speed...
Is there a benefit to the chemical test over a traditional compression test?

Thinking out loud always helps me in the process.
Last edit: 31 May 2019 05:07 by John Curtis.

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31 May 2019 06:42 #30261 by Noah
It's not a perfect test, but speed is the main reason it's my go too test. When confronted with any overheat complaint, I like to try that first. Also, I feel like depending on the severity of the failure, a chemical test will pick it out before a compression test on something with beginning stages of head gasket failure.
While a positive result is enough to condemn the engine in most cases, a negative is really just inconclusive.

"Learn, apply, repeat."

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02 Jun 2019 10:40 #30321 by Tyler
Interested to hear where this one ended up, Robert. :cheer: These cars have TONS of issues, but overheating and no heat is not one I've seen before.

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02 Jun 2019 12:41 #30327 by guafa
Me too,

I'm trying to save all the issues of this ecotec 2.4 engine, since where i live are getting old and out of warranty. Also these engines have bad reputation.

Is it right to say in order to rule out radiator inlet and oulet temperature should be more than 30 degress?

Cheers.

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02 Jun 2019 16:05 #30330 by robert.lesaca
I did get the blue chemical block test that came as a kit; followed the instruction to the letter and after the engine has warmed up, the blue didnt change in color (yellow). I drove the vehicle for some 30 minutes or so and the temp gauge would swing back and fortht between the (normal) third line and to almost 3/4 of the gauge. Any other thoughts or direction to go?

Thanks

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02 Jun 2019 16:09 #30331 by robert.lesaca
The only TSB Ive read is regarding the chain that runs the water pump is loose or not properly installed...fluid is running well through heater core, inlet/outlet hose to the heater core, radiator upper/lower hose and even the small by-pass hose from the reservoir to the upper rad hose...

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02 Jun 2019 19:02 #30340 by Tyler
Yeah, an overtightened water pump chain will just make noise, unfortunately. You'd have heard it by now if that were true. :silly:

Does a scanner agree with what the coolant temp gauge is saying? It's unlikely you have a lying gauge, just interested to know how hot the engine actually is when it's at 3/4.

Only overheats driving down the road? Suggests a coolant flow problem, but all your testing says otherwise. Any airflow issues across the condenser or radiator?

Has anyone tested the pressure bottle cap, or replaced it? Sounds somewhat like a system that never builds pressure.

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04 Jun 2019 13:56 #30361 by robert.lesaca
Yes, coolant flow is what Im thinking too. Again I drove the vehicle for a good half an hour (after flushing - I understand pressurized system auto purge bubbles) and now it seems temp stays between 3rd line and slightly above mid and I noticed too that the reservoir coolant level does fill up all the way to the top unlike before; heater core inlet and outlet hoses are warm to the touch.

Im going nuts over this ecotec engine...worse Ive worked on. Im running out of options. Oh, btw, is it possible that a wrong thermostat positioning can be a possible cause?

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04 Jun 2019 16:56 #30367 by Monde

robert.lesaca wrote: Yes, coolant flow is what Im thinking too. Again I drove the vehicle for a good half an hour (after flushing - I understand pressurized system auto purge bubbles) and now it seems temp stays between 3rd line and slightly above mid and I noticed too that the reservoir coolant level does fill up all the way to the top unlike before; heater core inlet and outlet hoses are warm to the touch.

Im going nuts over this ecotec engine...worse Ive worked on. Im running out of options. Oh, btw, is it possible that a wrong thermostat positioning can be a possible cause?


With reservoir coolant filled up all the way, I would try replacing the radiator cap. Since the coolant does not return to the radiator, its low level in the radiator may result in coolant not reaching the heater core resulting in no heat.

Vouloir, c'est pouvoir.

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04 Jun 2019 21:25 #30377 by Tyler

robert.lesaca wrote: Im going nuts over this ecotec engine...worse Ive worked on. Im running out of options. Oh, btw, is it possible that a wrong thermostat positioning can be a possible cause?


You mean, with the bleeder valve not pointed up? Or, did you mean installed backwards?

'Cause I figure the bleeder valve pointed down would just make bleeding the system the first time around more interesting. Backwards, I think the thermostat would just stay closed, and you'd be cooking the engine before you got down the block.

An incorrect/crappy thermostat, though, is a possibility. ;) One that doesn't open fully, and acts as a restriction to coolant flow when it shouldn't. Any idea what brand got installed?

The flush helped? :huh: Any evidence of stop leak in the coolant? That might be why there's no heat, and why it runs hot.

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05 Jun 2019 06:09 #30390 by Andy.MacFadyen
Where a thermostat is fitted with a jiggle valve I make a point of cutting it out to allow air to bleed out and ensure some by-pass flow over the thermostat.

I have also seen thermostats fitted upside down

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05 Jun 2019 06:40 #30392 by Noah
I recently went a few rounds with a BMW that had similar symptoms. I just put a new thermostat in it a few weeks before and it was fine, so I discounted it. After everything else checked fine I revisited the thermostat to find that it had stuck closed.

"Learn, apply, repeat."

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