98 chevy silverado 4.3l no injector pulse wont fire up

I've had a remote start on this vehicle for about 13 years and never had a problem. I recently took it off during a restoration project of the interior, the dash was taken off to be painted and the outside was painted as well with the bed being taken off and the doors it sat like that for about a year. the old remote start was removed and everything was wired up back to stock. now the vehicle will crank and sometimes run for a second but it will not get the injector pulse signal. it is getting fire, its cranking but no fuel injector pulse. I have checked the vats and it is not showing signs of being burnt up nor damage to the circuit board. the security light does not turn on at all even when the ignition is turned to the on position which leaded me to believe there was something wrong with the pcm, replaced it and still nothing. I now believe the light bulb is out on the security light so I'm gonna try that today. I have the chiltons and Haynes manuals but neither has the complete wiring diagram with color code and pin in diagrams. I am stuck on what to do. I already tried a new pcm and nothing happened. does anyone know where I can get a complete wire diagram that will have all the info I need, also maybe where I can start trouble shooting. I am at your mercy I don't know what else to do and the truck has never given me any problems, please help any info you can give me would be very much greatly appreciated!! thank you! sincerely Ruben from Odessa Texas

For our information, would you have a look at this PDF and ID which kind of key you have? Been awhile since I've seen a '98 Silverado, memory is a little fuzzy on which system it uses. :silly:

my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2077-0011.pdf

If the security light turns out to be a failed bulb, then I'd initially suspect something wrong with the VATS or Passkey pellet or lock cylinder. I'm sure the remote start system knew exactly what to provide on the VATS/Passkey lock cylinder circuit to enable starting, and now it's gone. :lol: The lock cylinder or the pellet in the key may have failed in the mean time.

If yours is a VATS system, its easy to take a couple voltage readings at the two white wires with orange sheathing coming from the lock cylinder at the bottom of the steering column. Check both wires - one should be 5V, the other will drop to something between five and zero when you turn the key on, depending on the resistor value of the key.

Possibly, since the remote start was removed and is now back to stock, the Passlock module may need to RE-Learn the value created by the Passlock Sensor. When the security light is working, and the system is triggered, car will start and stall, the light will flash. DO NOT turn the key off. After 10 minutes, the light will quit flashing. DO NOT turn the key off. The next Key start will be learned.

If that fails:

hi pole 71 would you monitor signal line coming from passlock module at key on

chief eaglebear wrote: hi pole 71 would you monitor signal line coming from passlock module at key on

Yes. With the key on, you should see 5 volts. As you turn the Key to the CRANK position, and release it, 2 separate hall effect sensors are triggered. If BOTH sensors are triggers with in a VERY short time window, but NOT simultaneously, the sensor will pull the 5 volts down to one of 10 different values.

If the BCM, or in this case the EVO/Passlock module, sees the expected voltage, the fuel enable signal is sent.

If the re-learn procedure that I posted does not work, I clipped this out of the .PDF file that Tyler posted. It is a more complete, and accurate, procedure.

***Note the last sentence***

Tyler wrote: For our information, would you have a look at this PDF and ID which kind of key you have? Been awhile since I've seen a '98 Silverado, memory is a little fuzzy on which system it uses. :silly:

my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2077-0011.pdf

If the security light turns out to be a failed bulb, then I'd initially suspect something wrong with the VATS or Passkey pellet or lock cylinder. I'm sure the remote start system knew exactly what to provide on the VATS/Passkey lock cylinder circuit to enable starting, and now it's gone. :lol: The lock cylinder or the pellet in the key may have failed in the mean time.

If yours is a VATS system, its easy to take a couple voltage readings at the two white wires with orange sheathing coming from the lock cylinder at the bottom of the steering column. Check both wires - one should be 5V, the other will drop to something between five and zero when you turn the key on, depending on the resistor value of the key.

the key looks to be either the passlock or pass key 3 as they look very similar, we have been working with a battery on the charger but I really don't know how good the battery is really. im going to get a new one and try everything again. I sent the new pcm back and I still have the new bcm installed, still nothing. can you tell me which wires to test am I looking in the right spot? so what should I do about the security light? I tried the turn signal bulb and nothing so I am thinking there is something wrong with my cluster? but idk everything worked fine on my behicle and now the blinkers don't work on either side. head lights come on but I cant figure out what is going on with this truck? is it possible corrosion has played a part and maybe a ground is bad? where should I be looking? I am stumped? when I changed out the pcm nothing happened so I received a new bcm tried the relearning procedure nothing, tried it with the old pcm and new bcm nothing. I do have a spare key and I will be taking it to the shop to try it today. I will let you guys know what happens. im attaching a few pics of my ignition because it seems to be different then the others im seeing online.

Siccboost wrote: [the key looks to be either the passlock or pass key 3 as they look very similar

Passlock 3 keys have "PK3" stamped on the shank.