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1992 Cadillac Deville 122,700 miles , blower motor replacement

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5 years 1 month ago #27803 by Dtnel
I've dug and dug online and no luck. Helping a friend out. This Deville has the 4.9 Engine, it's not the Northstar engine.

Anyways the blower motor went out. I've searched 92 Cadillac Deville blower motor replacement and other search queries and no luck. I've seen 93 Devilles with a more flat profile motor. I did see in one place online where it said to cut the box of the motor mount housing then I went and looked at it and there was some lines there drawn on the outside.

Am I supposed to use a saw and cut both lines and just bend the metal to get it in there or how does that work?

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5 years 1 month ago #27825 by Noah
www.justanswer.com/car/1au0y-1992-cadill...ower-motor-cuts.html

According to this, the "cut here" area is so you can remove the blower assembly without having to take the fan off inside the box (really GM?)....
So I think you have the right idea, cut and bend up.
I admittedly have not seen one of these in person in quite a while, so I may be mistaken.

"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"

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5 years 1 month ago - 5 years 1 month ago #27826 by Dtnel
Now there will be a thread for a 92 Cadillac DeVille blower motor replacement and I will even add a couple pictures.

There was no bending it the part you cut. If you note where I put the circles on the housing that's where a bolt fastens it to the firewall.

One thing I did have to do was remove the nut off the motor shaft and remove the squirrel cage.

Once I got the squirrel cage in there I added the motor then was able to do the reach around and fasten the nut to the squirrel cage.

Note it was easier to make the cut with a oscillating tool by Rockwell tools. Make sure you use a old cutting bit as you'll ruin it by the time you're done.

Also I removed the fuse/circuit breaker housing as it takes 2 , 10mm nuts to unfasten and it leans forward. IF you have a 2nd person and you're the DIY at home then by all means use them as they can ensure you don't nick the wiring.

I did have to make multiple adjustments of the blade to different positions on the oscillating tool to get it to fit right.

Sealing the cut bracket back up, well the owner said he's a painter so he said don't worry about putting any caulk on it as he'll do it.

Once I get this done I can figure out the hesitating, surging, etc. All signs of possibly EGR or solenoid symptoms and other symptoms as well but I chose the EGR because of the fact that there is no better aligned on from the EGR solenoid to the EGR valve.

I picked up a new solenoid and
a new valve tonight but upon opening the new valve at the will-call counter luckily with the warehouse person present I noticed one of the tab here's where you put a bolt through and mount it to the vehicle was broken off.

I don't see how that happened from the factory it really Burns me that people return used or broken parts without saying anything. If I've accidentally broken something I normally let the Parts Warehouse no and if it's not a big expensive item that's on me don't worry about it and don't get me another one. They understand that I don't need to keep buying from them regardless.

Maybe the industry someday will go to sealing these boxes up and if you open it to inspect it they just put a seal on it that way they know it's sealed.

I'll add more photos as I finish.





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