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Just thought I would put this out there, I have not done any Diagnostic or troubleshooting as yet.
Based in the UK and the vehicle in question is a Peugeot 4007, 2011, 2.2 HDi. the engine is Peugeot/Ford.
I've owned the car for a little over a year and not had any other issues with it. It normally starts within approx 1-2 Secs of cranking, however, over the last month or 2 when the engine is cold such as first thing on a morning or if it's left for several hours it can take 4-5 seconds of cranking before it starts. Once started it will start as normal (1-2 Sec crank) for the rest of the day as long as it has not cooled back down to ambient temps.
I know its not a great difference but just wanted to try and catch any possible issue early.
I must admit that it is due a service so Fuel, Air and oil filters will be changed soon and an oil change at the same time.
I'll plug the Verus Pro into it and see if there are any codes, no Check Engine light on the dash so not expecting to see any codes.
With common rail diesels long crank time have 4 main causes, low pressure pump issues. glow plug issues, compression issues and injector leakage issues.
Glow plugs should really be checked with a current clamp but because they use such a high current you can get a fair ideaif the glow pug relay is working just watching the battery voltage drop at key on.
The low pressure pump output pressure can be read from the sensor on the fuel filter with a scantool. Some common rail diesels have 3 fuel pumps, an in tank pump an under bonnet pump and the high pressure
However as diesel age the leak off becomes excessive and I strongly suspect this is your problem. The injector correction value pids may give you a clue to this but I would actually measure the injector leakage. You can improvise the kit required to do this test but the kits to do it are quite cheap on ebay.
" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
(Walter Bishop Fringe TV show)
I have one of those kits Andy, bought it but never used it.......Yet!
Although it's 2011 it only has 46,000 Miles on the clock so would not have thought it would be a pump issue, you never know though.
I'll do the service and decide from there which path I will be following, just thought I would get a second opinion before diving in, I'm not a pro mechanic just a self-taught enthusiast.
Not sure the glow plugs would come in to play here. From what I am led to believe they are not used until temperatures get well in to the minus figures.
They were changed within the last year but I’ll check them anyway, what sort of amperage should they drawing?
On most common rail engines glow plugs normally operate when either the coolant temperature or air inlet temp is below 10c the engine computer sets the time the glow plugs are on for, they can also continue running for about 10 sconds after start up to reduce white smoke. the battery voltage forWhite smoke is usually a give away for glow plugs but they are easy to check by looking at the battery voltage for the first few seconds after the engine fires up.
" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
(Walter Bishop Fringe TV show)
I'd think if he uses the component tester portion of the Verus Pro he can see some of those test procedures, some specs, etc. The Verus Pro does have the component tester doesn't it? Never used it. Came in with Solus Edge, Modis Edge and jumped to Zeus which looking at the box the Zeus is packaged in if you look at the bottom it lists components as Verus Pro so I call the Zeus a rebadged Verus all the time. I might have a photo of the sticker. If so I'll attach it.
OK I was incorrect the Zeus is a rebadged Verus Edge. Don't know if it's the same as the Pro? I didn't start using Snap-On till the Solus Edge.
Hindsight I should've kept the Solus Edge and went with the stand alone scope / component tester snap on has. As I heard they won't get rid of the component tester anytime soon as it's a seller.
Yes the Verus Pro has the component tester built in. the only thing i'm missing for the Verus Pro is the M4 Scope module, I bought it secondhand for a bargain price as the scope was not included. I'm sure Snap-on would love me to purchase the scope module for it or better still they would willing sell me an upgrade but that is not going to happen, I can't justify that sort of money when it's not something I make a living from.
There is a quick test you can do to discard fuel leakage (also fuel pressure regulator and anti-return valve) in low fuel pressure lines.
Before start engine, turn ignition switch on and off until you feel the lift pump is working under pressure. You can feel a different sound when pressure changes.
At that point, you start the engine a can notice the delay.
Is the lift pump manual? Then manually pump until you feel pressure and then start the engine.
Tried turning key on and off half a dozen times to try and build pressure and made little or no difference. I’ve still not done the service due to finances but will get to it ASAP.
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