2006 Hyundai Tiburon GS 2.0L O2 Sensor Issue (p0133)

Hello, I have a 2006 Hyundai Tiburon GS 2.0L, It is stock, no modifications at all.

It has a check engine light on - p0133
Front o2 sensor slow response

Work Done:
Replaced front o2 sensor 3 times
Exhaust Pipe Leak Fixed
Replaced back o2 sensor (never had a problem with it but my mechanic was dumb)
No other leaks found - according to the mechanic

And the car still has its check engine light on. I don't know what to do. Please help.

bachprobe power on sensor and then unplug it you might have a bias voltage it might not have integrity to computer I guess high resistance might show as a slow response o2 I may be wrong im not actually a tech but I did sleep in a holiday in last night lol

try enriching or maybe doing a oxygen storage test to see where your at as far as o2 response (just a thought) your mechanic should know how to do a oxygen storage test I don't think that will tell you what is wrong with sensor circuit but it will show you how slow your sensor actually is

Do you have the capability to graph the O2 sensors? Make sure the upstream and downstream connectors are not reversed.

I am with Pole71on this you need to look at how the voltage output of th O2 sensor is responding as it warms up.
How you do this depends very much on the tools you have available, you can use a normal multimeter to get a rough and ready view of the sensor output but an budget price scantool that displays and graphs the O2 sensor voltage ( usually called B1S1 under the OBD2 convention) is amuch better way.

For about 60$ on Amazon you can find an Autel AL519 that will not only let you read and clear codes but display live data and graph it. There are also more expensive version of the Autel and equivalents made by Launch and othermanufacturers but the Autel AL519 will do all you require.

A cheaper way to do is use an ELM327 Bluetooth dongle off ebay connected to an Android phone running the OBD Car Doctor App or the Torque app but a hand held tool like the Autel 519 is simply plug and play.

What you should see from the O2 sensor output once the sensor and engine is fully warmed up is a contstant changing (almost switching) between about 0.1v and 0.9v.
If it is not doing this for example stuck at about 0.5v increase engine speed to 3,000 RPM and hold it ther for a minute if after a return to normal idle speed the sensor suddenly come alive and begins switching I would suspect either the sensors built in heater is not working due to either an iternal fault in the sensor or wiring to the sensor or the connector. It could also be a fault i the engine computer but much less likely.

If after warming up the sensor it still dosen't come alive I would suspect a dead sensor but there are other checks that should be done before jumping in and changing the sensor.