2006 Hyundai Tuscon 2.7 crank but no start
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Very curious as to why 4.1 volts.
Fuel Pump Relay(FPR) Control Side:
-Pin 3 FPR is the ECM GND CTRL wire
-Pin 5 FPR is 12V from Engine Control Relay
May have to test what is happening when the contacts close on the Engine Control Relay, you've got some serious voltage drop somewhere.
I've attached diagrams for you.
Attachment not found
How did you test for Spark and Fuel?
Never stop Learning.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Spark I tested with a test light to ground. It had good bright spark. Fuel pressure I can smell it and the fuel pump is supposedly new. Putting a gauge on it looks to be impossible with out some modification.
I’m wondering if timing jumped a tooth or 2. I wonder how many teeth it could jump before valve contacts a piston ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4422
- Thank you received: 961
Thinking of a bias voltage while disconnected.
"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
A little trick you can do is wrap a strand of wire of sufficient length around pin 3 and 5 and install the relay so you can put your meter on the strands.
You measurements indicate a bad Fuel Pump Relay.
Try swapping around relays with another that isn't required for starting.
Never stop Learning.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Fuel pump seems to work fine. I can smell fuel and relay runs fuel pump on key on.
I’m thinking the timing belt might’ve jumped a tooth. Even though the timing belt is moving. It is badly cracked up and way overdue for replacement.
I’m going to hook up a scope and check coil firing to compression drag through the starter wire.
Other thing is when starter is running the cranking doesn’t sound even.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Please post back your findings.
Never stop Learning.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Toolman10000 wrote: I’m going to hook up a scope and check coil firing to compression drag through the starter wire.
Good idea here. Even if this passes, I'd still consider pulling the upper timing covers and manually check timing.
The other quick test you can do is hook up a vacuum gauge to the brake booster hose and watch it during cranking. There should be a few inches of vacuum. Any pressure reading is a red flag.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kostelectronics
- Offline
- Senior Member
- Posts: 57
- Thank you received: 7
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Toolman10000 wrote: Well it’s been a while and I was going to check timing but the car started and ran fine.
Interesting! No timing issue, then.
Now just yesterday the car will not start again. It’s definitely getting fuel and that uneven crank is because the cylinder is washed down. There are no codes which gets me. Maybe it’s the crank sensor not sure. I’m going to check it out tomorrow.
Maybe stay with the relative compression test anyway? Not because you're gonna find a timing issue, but because it may be useful to know which cylinders are getting washed down.
Opening the throttle during cranking doesn't help?
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kostelectronics
- Offline
- Senior Member
- Posts: 57
- Thank you received: 7
Currently, i have the exact same car here with the same symptoms. The Wiring to the CKP was completely rotten and made temporary Shorts. The CKP sits on the bottom of the engine near the starter Motor. It's a pain in the a... to remove it!
BR from Switzerland
Matthias
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
When the car does start it runs perfect.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Posts: 4422
- Thank you received: 961
"Ground cannot be checked with a 10mm socket"
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
That crank waveform looks messy. A 5volt signal should be perfectly clean, that's the whole point of using 5 volt regulators, so the computer gets a clean pattern it can rely on. When you see spikes and tails it means you’ve got a problem, either in your scope connection or in the power/ground supply.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- kostelectronics
- Offline
- Senior Member
- Posts: 57
- Thank you received: 7
You have to check this Signal when the car doesn't start. (I don't know if the car started when you catched this waveform).
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Toolman10000
- Topic Author
- Offline
- New Member
- Posts: 18
- Thank you received: 2
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.