1993 3012 5.0 f150 starting problem

I was driving my f150 one day went out to start it the next day and it wouldnt start now has spark and gas but wont fire. items I have checked/ changed
Ignition control module
Coil
Distributor cap
Spark plugs
Inertia switch
And we believe timing is correct
Looking for some other possibilities of what could cause this problem

When you say it has spark, do you mean at the coil? Or, the spark plugs?

What is the fuel pressure?

The spark plugs and dont have a way to test fuel pressure but sprays out of fuel rail pretty good

If you're confident you're getting good spark, then I'd dig deeper into fuel. Will it start and run on carb clean? Give it a shot of spray and see what happens.

If it now runs, get your hands on a gauge. These trucks use two fuel pumps in series, so some digging will be needed.

No it will not even fire on starting fluid or carb clean

How much of an air gap will the spark jump when tested at the plug ?
Will it start with the spout connector unplugged?

Josh3089 wrote: No it will not even fire on starting fluid or carb clean

Points to an ignition issue apart from checking how far the spark will jump in air (should jump at least the width of your thumb ie 1") , If that is okay I would want to pull a spark plug out for examination to get an idea of conditions with inside the cylinder as it could be massively over fueling.. What is making me think fuel flooding is with ether starting fluid I have seen gasoline engines actually fire up on compression ignition alone.

Not sure on the air gap the spark will jump my dad just took a plug out and put it next to something metal. What is a spout connector?

I changed all 8 spark plugs and only the number 5 plug needed replaced because of electrode wear and it was the only plug that didnt have gas on it when we pulled them out

Josh3089 wrote: What is a spout connector?

The SPOUT (SPark OUTput) connector is how the PCM controls timing.

Copy and pasted:

DESCRIPTION
The distributor contains no centrifugal or vacuum advance mechanisms. All spark advance/retard is accomplished electronically by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

OPERATION
During engine cranking (and after the engine starts), a hall effect switch inside the distributor assembly sends a variable, Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP), voltage signal to the Ignition Control Module (ICM), which is mounted on the left fender wall, and to the PCM, which uses it to determine crankshaft position and engine speed.

Using the signal and information provided by other engine control sensors, the PCM determines the appropriate ignition timing. The PCM then sends a Spark Output (SPOUT) timing signal back to the ICM.

The ICM turns the ignition coil primary circuit "ON" and "OFF", according to the SPOUT signal from the PCM. Each interruption of the ignition coil primary circuit causes the ignition coil secondary circuit to produce an open circuit high voltage pulse of up to 40,000 volts. These high voltage pulses are routed to the distributor, which sends them to the spark plugs.

The PCM monitors the ICM's control of the ignition coil through the Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) circuit.

If the ICM does not receive a SPOUT signal from the PCM, the ICM will set timing at a fixed value.


Disconnecting the SPOUT will prevent the PCM from controlling timing.

Josh3089 wrote: Not sure on the air gap the spark will jump

Here is a video of ScannerDanner checking the "spark jump" with a test-light connected to ground. This is with a coil pack, rather than a distributor, but it still applies.

Be sure to keep the point of the test-light CLOSER TO THE WIRE/COIL THAN YOUR FINGER!!!

Josh, it is the connector you unplug to set ignition timing.
Also just holding a plug against the block to check for spark is NOT a good test. You have to stress the coil and increase the air gap. It should jump at least a half inch gap at the plug end. Check it at the coil first, then at the plugs

Where is the spout located

Josh3089 wrote: Where is the spout located

Usually, right next to the TFI module connector. If no one has messed with it previously, then they're usually taped to the harness.

Does it look like a grey tab

Yep, that's it! Pull it and see what happens.

If it still won't start, recheck for spark as Paul described earlier.

Pulled that still no start or fire. Unfortunately wont be able to recheck spark for probably 2 weeks when my dad gets back home and then if we can't figure it out it is getting towed to a shop to be looked at and possibly fixed

Josh, watch this video when you get time. It may not be your exact issue but the testing methods shown should help you.