2014 F150 3.5l Crank, No start

First day at a new shop and got thrown on one that made another tech no call no show and pick up his box. Customer had the vehicle towed in because he was driving and the truck died. He found that his ignition coil fuse blew so he repeatedly put fuses in and cranked the vehicle trying to get it to start, I believe maybe he caused more damage doing that. Not sure why the tech before me didnt think to check pin tension on the fuse, but I ended up finding that the fuse kept blowing because the spades were not making good contact with the fuse. I used a fuel pump fuse relocation kit to properly repair the spades and relocate the ignition coil fuse. This solved the issue with the fuse blowing but now when I try to start the vehicle the check engine light just shuts off completely during cranking. I checked all of my fuel wiring because I had a code for the fuel pump relay in the memory, all was good there, plenty of pressure to the fuel rail. From there I decided to see if my coils were firing, so I pulled a coil, put a plug in it and tried grounding to the engine and the to the body to see if I could see spark and I didnt. I didnt have my scope with me but I did use a multi meter to confirm that I had 12v on my V+ wire, my control wire frequency moves too fast to get an accurate reading with a meter but I did see that voltage was at least being sent to control during cranking, and then I tested the ground side and noticed that when the coils are supposed to be firing, my ground is only getting pulled down to 10.5v at the lowest, the other two times I cranked it, it wouldn't even drop to 11v. Where should I check from here? My ground between the pcm and battery maybe? I believe the driver may not be capable of sinking all the way to ground and complete the firing of the coil. I had a U1000 from the bcm and also a B1310-14 and a P0230 that came back on the initial scan and did not return after fuse relocation and code clear. Any advice would really be appreciated. Thanks yall.

I realize it's been a couple days, have you gotten anywhere on this one?
Your meter may not be fast enough to catch the rapid ground side control of the fuel injectors. If you don't have a scope, a noid light may be a better tool for the time being. They don't put a great load on the circuit, but it will tell you if you have control, an by extension cam and crank signals.
You should invest in a proper spark tester. Lisle makes a fantastic adjustable spark tester for under $30.
The engine light turning off during cranking has long been an indication for Ford vehicles that the ECM is receiving crank signal. Unless they changed that strategy in the last 5-10 years, I would call that normal

Man thank you for the reply brother, I did end up finding it had a bad engine. I tested based off of what they could tell me and they skipped a lot of things and forgot to tell me a lot of things that mattered. I watched Danners 3800 crank no start case study and went in the next day and used my scope to verify electrical function and I got everything working right in that area and said "you know what? Im going to pull a plug and borescope the cylinder, maybe its flooded or something simple like it was for Paul." Sure as shit had carbon all over the plugs tremendous pre det damage, debris in the cylinders from where the guy tore the truck apart himself trying to figure it out first. So I found that, we called the guy and the first thing he said was "man now it makes sense, is that why ive been smelling gas in my oil for about a year now?" Lesson learned here was KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID. I should've pulled my scope out and done a relative with a sync and I would've seen this without taking anything apart but they told me it had good compression. Lesson learned that if I pick up where somebody left off then I just need to start all the way over. 😂 case closed on this one but I appreciate your response man, I really do.