Mazda 5 2008 2l no crank

Good day to you

I was watching one of your videos about the mazda imobilizer and ECU testing. I follwed all steps but everything seems to be ok i got the 5v reference and 12v on the thermister the key unlocks the doors but the imobiliser wont go off it wont crank the car had a minor accident which broke the right engine mounting battery in key fob is new, car battery is new aswell. The car is a Mazda 5 2008 model please find attached picture of the engine i am in Africa couldnt find anyone who can help. The nearest mazda dealer here is 200km away and i can afford to tow it to a dealer near me I sincerely hope you can give me some help

www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j...CKD8sN74TBrmnG7-pIFI

hi sir I live in Alaska from your description I was wondering if you can get ahold of a code reader if we can get some codes it might give us direction also you mentioned the vehicle had been in an accident sometime the inertia switch gets buggered you can find schematics on bbb you may also reach out to the moderators on here they are very knowledgable and experience technicians with a little more info well get er fixed I would verify my crank cam circuit but if we can pull some codes it will help

Kumbi, are you certain you're dealing with an immobilizer issue? What does the immobilizer light on the dash do with the key on, and with the key in crank?

Is this a manual or automatic transmission?

There's some quick checks you can do at the starter relay in the underhood fuse box to check the health of the rest of the starting system, before going down the immobilizer path. As always, with any four pin relay, we want two powers and two grounds with the relay removed and the key in crank. Check these with an incandescent test light, if possible.

I don't have access to an '08 2.0L wiring diagram, as they didn't sell those in the US. But this is the starting diagram for an automatic transmission 2.3L, which (should) be similar:

Thank you for the information i called a guy with the machine, he is coming tomorrow so i think i will have the codes then will give you feedback when i get the codes

Thank you sir the imobilizer with the key on crank position the light sometimes stays o and at times its flashing 2 times then pause for a small time then flashes 3 times it repeats that. Opened key fob to replace the battery whilst i was at it i removed the small transponder chip from the key then it started to flash on and off rapidly when i put it close to the ignition then it stops so i think the system recognises the key but wont crank. And also when i try to crank the light on the radio goes off then i hear the click sound like hitting a brick wall

The car is manual checked the clutch switch and everything is ok

You say, you can hear a click Sound like a "Brick onto a wall"?

Have you checked the Voltages at te Startermotor and jumped the Starter-Relay Load-side ? If the starter still not kicks on, you have a bad starter-Motor.

...this Sound what you describe as "Brick onto a wall" reminds me that the starter-Solenoid is stuck. Try to tap with a hammer against the starter, if it works after, replace the Starter anyways.

If the the Starter kicks on when you jump the starter-relay, you have a control-side issue of the Starter-Relay. Check it with the wiring-diagram that you got here. Maybe the PCM doesn't provide a GND to the starter-Relay control-side for some reason.

Thanks will look into that i borrowed a bluetooth obd scarner and it came up with P1260 engine disabled attaching videos

Radio going off on turning key to start

This code means, the PCM have received a Signal from the Immobiliser (or the PCM have no communication with the Immobiliser) ---> the car is not allowed to start. Do you use all original components (Modules) for this car? Your Key is original? If not, Change all components to original.

Next step: Read the Immobilizer Codes with a good tool and look what this module says.
Are the Airbags being open at this accident? If yes, maybe there's a Crash registered that don't allow the car to start.

Conclusion: You Need a good code-scanner and post a full scan log here.

BR Matthias

Thanks will do i think everthing is original but what i know is the key has been coded before by the previous owner is there a way i can remove that kind of system. I cant keep on coding after every accident