Parasidic draw

Hello have a 1.8amp parasidic draw in my 2009 Jeep Wrangler 3.8 L automatic trans only when I connect my power distribution box cable. I have removed all the fuses and relays from the box and still have it I have disconnected the starter and alternator. The car Will start but the battery will drain in a few days if left unattended from this draw. Not sure where to test next can you point me in a different direction thank you .

Well, I would perform a voltage drop test across your fuses. SD has videos on this.

I suggest hooking up the car as normal. Let it sit for an hour, this allows all modules to go to sleep. After waiting, start performing a voltage drop test across your fuses. Once you identify the fuse, look at the wiring diagram to determine which components make up that sub-circuit. Then determine how to test which component is continuing to draw current.

Your description of what you did fascinates me. I wish I could work on this with you. This appears to be a good one. With that said, be patient; you will get it.

Try this (gives two methods - current & voltage drop):

I use a dc clamp meter for this kind of problem.
As you say you have already removed the fuses and relays the next step is to trace the direction of the current draw.
Could you have possibly missed a fuse box?
Something we see quite often here is a hidden gps or old alarm system has been fitted to a vehicle unknown to the new buyer -
depending on whether you got it new or not? I'd be looking at the ignition key wiring next because that is usually where people
connect things like that.
With a clamp meter you can put it around the cables leading from the battery and follow the wires with the current draw in them.
This isn't always easy because sometimes it's hard to get to the harness but has helped me many times.

1.8 amps is a huge drain, assuming the 75ah battery in your jeep is a good but used so has an effective 50 ah 1.8 amps is a big enough drain the battery to a barely cranking no start within 24 hours.

I am wondering if the 1.8 amps is only an initial parasitic draw and will reduce to lower but still battery draining level once the main modules have had enough time to go into sleep mode.
I would be looking for much smaller drain as a 200ma drain is enough cause no start issue with a few days.

Open your fuel cap and listen....

That range of Jeep/Chrysler vehicles have a hidden fuel pump relay buried inside their TIPM (Totally Integrated Power Module). The relay fails, and many times it fails in the stuck 'on' position.
There is an external relay kit you can install on the vehicle that eliminates the internal one so you don't have to buy the $1200 TIPM and then have it flashed.
You install the kit and no programming is required.

This may not be your problem, but I've seen it more than once now and I'm not working at a Jeep dealership. It's worth a quick check.

If this is my problem you say the relay is hidden where does it live. Is it inside the tipm box or under the car? I will listen if I hear anything at my fuel door.

It's integrated into the circuits inside the module. Soldered to the board. You can't get to the relay.

But, if it's staying on, you should be able to hear the fuel pump running when you open the fuel cap and listen. If that is the case, there are Youtube videos out there that show the work-around kit and it's install.

That's not the only relay they integrated inside, but it's the most common to fail.

Here's a visual from this very enlightening thread. www.jkowners.com/forum/stock-jk-tech-dep...-oem-tipm-study.html

A fuel pump, even pulse width controlled, will draw considerably more than 1.8 amps.....

Good point, most fuel pumps will pull at least 3-5 amps when running. I hadn't paid attention to his readings.
Also, upon rereading the original post, I see another problem in my theory. It says that all fuses were removed and the draw still existed. The TIPM has the fuel pump fuse, which if you read the wiring diagram the fuse is AFTER the relay. So, if the draw still existed with all fuses removed, it cannot have been the fuel pump relay.
That might be the answer to solving the riddle, though. Since we know there are several more relays buried inside the TIPM, I'd check the wiring diagram and look for circuits where the relay is shown in the TIPM but not found on its surface. Then find ways to isolate those circuits for testing.