2005 dodge magnum RT 5.7- Cranks but no Start, Starts By Gas pedal then Stalls..

1)I was thinking that pcm is not grounding ASD & fuel relay, but later found out it will do it for 3 seconds when KOEO , and activates them again when cranking and started. so I by myself was not seeing it because I am not flash , to back at the car after inserting key to test it..so had someone help, i can hear the fuel pump whining without any problem and also hear and feel ASD relay clicking...and since pcm also sends ground to starter relay , thats working fine too.
-> RPM signal --how to confirm that, is it near the ignition switch. when i start teh car with gas pedal pressed, the rpm needle moves if it started...but drops back to zero and stalls....at this point may be pcm not giving ground or rpm signal going bad...I wonder.
So for now in my mind PCM is good unless one component dealing with the starting system is gone bad or its stopping itself from give ground after one or two crank...not sure which others signals needed...cam and cnk as you said.

2) I am using torque pro app, i think i can see the pid's there on the chart. will double check on it. what reading i should see on them?

3) Will do that sound compression test..will remove fuel relay and see if it cranks the same way like its doing now or like a normall car start? Are we talking slightest difference in sound that you can hear only at the engine or sitting in the car? I have starting fluid and i see a small hole after the throttle body with a thin hose on it, i can spray on that...

4) some mechanic told the throttle should open and close when KOEO and gas pedal pressed...this is what made me buy the pedal..damn..
->if ETC is defaulted to the 1500 rpm, that means idle should not be a problem..so me chasing for the throttle plate to open even slightly to idle is wrong..I see now
->Yes the throttle open and close to do that test you mentioned

5) KOEO - Yes i saw the 5v on the pin-2 and ground continuity/0v at pin-5 (ETC motor -)
->Just so you know i was chasing the APP sensor and not throttle sensor because the only thing i didn't find at TPS is ETC motor + voltage....
->so to test the signal voltages on pin 1 & 4, do you want me to open and close the plate by hand carefully and see the signals by backprobing at the same time?
-> pin-3= ETC motor + should have 5v when the plaet is at closed position by default? or after its opened completely..got confuse with the "12v to close and to open wording"
-> Will calculate the total which shold be 5v.

6) The TPS test i will do it but i was focusing on APP sensor as to thinking its not sending its signal back to pcm which kind of works the same as total should be 5v like TPS sensor..so i was thinking its not sending signal back to pcm and pcm going in limp mode or something adn not starting at all..
-> I have the gas pedal with me here at home, shall i supply 5v to pin 1 and pin-6 on APP sensor at the pedal by a USB connector(5V/2A) supply and see if i see signals to be total 5v at all times regardless of the position of the gas pedal? I took the whole assembly out so i can press gas pedal myself with hand...

( Hope usb power supply's 2A won't be too much for the APP position sensor)

Thanks

1) TPS signal wires I didn't check since the plate do not move, so I went on with APP sensor if thats causing throttle plate not to open because it might be bad..So will install the new gas pedal as I ordered already and will check the signal reading at the pcm harness or backprobe the App sensor itself whichever is easier..

2) CNk or CAM issue, I wont be able to find it since torque pro needs to be set with custom pid's and I should enter specific data for chrsler cnk and cmp to show up on torque pro app...will search if i can find how to add cnk and CAM pid's for my car...if you know, would appreciate it too.

3) will watch the compression video online

4) ETC motor + or - do have nay voltage at default closed position...because its not coming from ECM. but here's the catch. when the car starts with the as pedal pressed...i can rev the engine for those 2 seconds, which indicates at that point the throttle plate is getting voltage...

5) I am gonna have to double check because the APP signal 2 gave me a battery voltage on first probe and 0 on second...thinking that the signal wire got shorted to battery voltage near the connectors c105 at lower dash on passenger seat...

6) I found this today, www.motor.com/magazine-summary/solving-t...-chrysler-ignitions/
This article seems to talk about the o2 heater circuits which are my current codes...in short its saying that the o2 sensors might be bad or shorted and its pulling the voltage down so the ignition system not getting enough power...
====================
In short, will try the scannerdanner compression test, install new gas pedal and check the App signal readings and see ff throttle works and does it start the car for the heck of it....will see online if i can get the data to create custom pid's for cnk and cam on torque app for chrysler.. if you know please let me know.

thanks

Iignore this blank post..

1) I have the torque pro app and i use most of the time...But to get the crank and cam readings, its not there by default. we need to add custom pid's specific to the make or the model of the car itself and then read it on a graph....looked for those custom pid info to add on my app..didn't find it yet but will keep searching. if u know how to add the custom pid's on torque pro app for my dodge magnum hemi, or any other way i can get that info without adding anything extra. would love to know

2)ya fingers crossed, will see what happens, before attaching it I will double check any shorting on that circuiut from pcm to APP sensor...the other day like i said i got 12v on pin-36 c3 pcm harness..should be max 5v...

3) ya please send me that APP test. I was trying to supply usb 5.2 voltage supply to pin 1 and 6 on APP assembly in my home and grounds to return wires and reading the signals with pedal pressed and unpressed... i see the voltages changing by did coupe of times ,i am getting the total to be higher than 5v like 6-7v. what i noticed is the reading is getting stuck at a particular position when u hold it.. not smooth if you will which is making its total above 5v ...
its kind of same thing if you will, where this all started from...water leak in to the car and this pedal getting stuck half way and not releasing itself completely which made me not drive it for a while and check if throttle plate is full of carbon, but i cleaned it long before and its still same and while doing that snapped the cold fuel injector no.3 harness wires, positive(coming from ASD relay output) and ground . but i fixed it and nothing went wrong there but couldn't start the vehicle...i removed the tape i put on that connection but don't see anything wrong.. but i still have that in back of my mind...

4) I was watching this motor channel roadkill video where he was talking about throttle..could u watch that clip and does it make sense with my problem...throttle needed to be open...

Time: 19:53

5) I do not know if I mentioned this in my thread but one of the factor as you mentioned in a no start condition is "Timing", from what I know its a mechanical thing related to the timing belt/chain right, and also heard people talk about cam and cnk signals when talking about timing and then they look at those signals with high-end tools and see if its timing issue and then i guess move on to adjust that timing chain...Am I close in describing "Timing"? anyways...I wanted to add this to the thread, that I changed the accesory/drive belt on my hemi while i was first looking if throttle has carbon build up as gas pedal was getting stuck and at the same time when i broke the injector harness wires but i fixed it, no big deal..but i thought let me install the belt too as it was squeaking for long time.. and then attach a jumper battery and start the car ( at this point I didn't know the car wont start)..
So there were two different actions that happened before the car wont start, and start only by gas pedal pressed...1) new belt installed 2) injector no. 3 harness wires ( only 2 on harness) broke because of cold and i knocked them off...but fixed it..

--> why am I concerned about belt? because i was doing it alone with a small rachet, so i didn't had good leverage to move the tensioner pulley for removing the old belt and installing new..while installing new i had it sit half on one of the pulleys on the left and then gained a little strength and placed it fully on that pulley back.. thats a no big deal, if anything goes bad is the belt by stretching...this could be nothing...but if you look at the diagram for 5.7 ltr belt flow..
Page-970 ( www.dropbox.com/s/ofo6epl4aclda91/2006-2012 LX Workshop Manual.pdf )

The (1) pulley has the belt going below it and to the top of the (2) pulley... i didn't had the belt underneath the (1) pulley, it was just on the top so basically won't engage that pulley when cranking.....[ (1) pulley is idler pulley right? ],
So, i remembered trying remote start the car with my remote key for a couple of seconds, I am leaning towards that it didn't start and just cranked or something and soon i realized , that (1) pulley is not engaging, double checked it and did it the right way.. I double checked its in the right direction after that.. I am wondering if that couple of seconds crank without engaging that (1) pulley changed the timing chain position?
OR you think my timing is fine since the car starts with tweaking the gas pedal position...

Will wait for the APP test from mitchell...

Thanks

Thanks for the steps, I saw the same in the manual...i stopped the test at jumper wire because i connected the jumper wire form 5v to signal pin's in harness but torque pro scan didn't show me more than 4.5v but i was not sure if I am reading the right stuff and is the torque pro doing its job correctly...Anyways...will assume the APP sensor as bad for now...

1) Can you please respond to the post in sequence leaving this APP test part..Would appreciate it. Specially (4)-the youtube video & (5) regarding me changing the belt and messing the timing chain?

2) Also please can you tell me if I can mix the pink and orange coolant from mopar together , MS-9769(pink) & MS-9769G,

Thanks

if the belt is not installed on that idler puller or (1) pulley properly and belt rotated few times, it wont mess anything right..? if yes, thank god i didn't mess up any mechanical..

At this point you don't see any mechanical issue right? its just the open/short to ground or short to voltage wire/wires ...

I do not know if I told you this, the throttle warning light is flashing some times but goes off and then comes back...recently started seeing it when i removed the gas pedal sensor and stuff...

I was thinking about the Gas pedal working or not...When i start the car somehow, and i rev the engine trying to keep the engine alive which it don't, only stays for couple of seconds..the engine rev's when i press the gas pedal..so that itself to me is saying its working...right?

Let me know what other area should I look or just wait for the gas pedal to arrive...

Not sure if you want me to open the EGR valve or use tapping technique using a rubber hammer to see if it opens up if its close or something because I see P0406 code and heard EGR can cause stall...Let me know please

thanks

1) The belt is properly installed after that one crank. its good now

2) Will do the sound test, but i think it was fine to me by watching videos..., will try rotate just to see if the engine is stuck or what, but i don't think it would else it wont start the engine anyway ...

3) Ya the injector wires near the connector, they are fine. double checked it.

4) I was old to check the G102 gorund and a voltage drop test on it.. did check on the ground bolts on top of the right shock bumber and near the pcm on top..they have 0v drop..

Note: But i am finding this 0.5-0.7v difference form the battery voltage to the fuel relay voltage on pin-85..but the fuel pump is priming initially.. this voltage should be fine for the fuel relay right ....?

5) Today the pedal arrives, and will update you in the evening if any changes....
Should I see a 12v or 5v on either ETC motor + or - when KOEO at throttle harness? without pressing any pedal...

1) ya G102 is fine. 0v drop. But the fuel relay pin-85 like I said has say 11.8v when the battery voltage is 12.4-12.5v, but i hear the fuel relay clicking and fuel pump running.. so don't worry about that right?was just wondering, if its stopping from running after i start the car...hence stalling...

2) If one of the ETC motor + or - should have 12vPWM when KOEO, then surely the throttle body motor was not working, because no 12v on it...this was because of the bad gas pedal sensor..
I received the pedal sensor assembly and checked for the continuity between pin 2,3 and pin 4,5, which are signal and return(ground inside pcm), they beep for continuity with a resistance ofcourse..where as the old pedal did't had that...

3) In the manual it says to use a scan tool to do ETC relearn, is there other way?

4) I was moving the plate open and close by hand, and occasionally removed throttle sensor, does that call for a ETC relearn everytime and make APP go bad?

1) But i didn't see the steps to do the idle relearn...
you said "If you open it by hand, you have to do and idle relearn after that. " if its just by pressing the gas pedal KOEO and releasing within 2 seconds. I will do that...i am installing the pedal now..

2) So in that case PCM is fine and throttle motor is fine because it engages the plate for a second , small open and close.. and the gas pedal is definitely bad based on my comparison of new and old.

3) I have obd-2 bluetooth scanner, will delete the codes from my torque pro app.

Will update on the pedal installation....i didn't do it yesterday , heavy winds..

I installed the pedal but for some reason the last time I went to see the car and reading voltages, I dropped the lower driver dash to take out the pedal..Not sure what did I made loose..the starter don't crank.. I jumped the starter relay, its fine.. it was sunset by the time I realized the starter didn't engage last time I left...So couldn't see if the new pedal made it crank, but I saw the throttle pedal reading went higher 20% - 100% when i pressed the gas pedal KOEO, the same didn't show last time... but not sure if the throttle plate was also moving when i did that...I had nobody with me...Anyways..installed it but couldn't start..

Will go tomorrow to see if the fused ignition output (start) is not giving signal to pcm or pcm is not giving control (ground) to starter relay for the relay to not engage...good thing is that starter motor is fine..

If can't fix starter to crank easy, will leave the key on and jump the starter relay myself and see if it starts, this can be done on a normal working car and it would start it right?

Note: before installing the pedal i was taking some readings...specially oxygen sensor, EGR valve, APP sensor harness to PCM harness...they seems to be fine no short to ground or battery voltage when ignition off. didn't do the same when KOEOff, but i think it would be same result..

But here's what i found on oxygen sensor readings..
-> I was able to remove the o2 harness and back probe the left- front sensor(easy to reach)...
(Following was done with ignition off)
when the harness was connected, i back probed the pin-1(o2 Heater control) and check the continuity from there to the PCM harness(disconnected), it showed 0 resistance and beeped for continuity and i tried to see if the heater control is short to batteyr voltage or ground..I heard the beep with the ground...is that normal? I was quickly looking thru the manual on the phone and did resistance check...I would say i was getting 4.1ohms on this one and did check for all other 3 o2 sensors and found the continuity and beep sound and the resistance I saw was 4.2 on all others....

I was like is the wire from pcm harness to the o2 sensor is short to ground or what...but i managed to remove the harness on this left-front sensor and checked the same as before (on pcm side), didn't saw beep or resistance...then i went to check on the sensor itself, thought the sensor gone bad, checked the resistance between the heater control and ground pin on it. saw 4.2-4.3 ohms..which is what I was seeing on pcm side with o2 sensor harness connected..
I have a new o2 sensor in package, not installed yet( for the right rear side), checked the same resistance and continuity beep on pin-1, 2 and found 4.5 Ohms and continuity beep..

so I am confused now whether the o2 sensors are fine or not and the heater control circuit should show continuity beep with chasis ground/o2 sensor ground and the resistance being 4.1/4.2 in one of them(left-front) and other 4.3ohms is fine...nothing wrong in here...

Manual saying something about if less than 5ohm the repair short to ground, but I saw the same 4.3-4.5ohms on a new one I have in brand new package, its not above 5ohm..

Lemme know what you think, that nothing wrong with them hopefully?

Thanks

So here's where I am at,

sadly not sure what happened suddenly...starter is not engaging as I mentioned before. thought may be pin-30 or pin-85 was not getting power to the starter relay in the front fuse box but i see pin-30 has voltage all times, and pin-85 has voltage when in crank position. and if I jump 30-87 I hear the starter..so only thing was pin-86 which is T752(DG/OR) wire going to pcm c3-38 harness pin, which provides the ground to the starter relay. it was working perfectly fine even after I lowered the driver lower dash to take out the gas pedal the other day, but after couple of cranks later that evening , no more cranks..

I was in a impression pcm is not giving ground because it may not be getting fused ignition output to the pcm or something in ON position or Start position, so today i checked it I see the pcm is getting fused ignition output in ON position and start position, there are two of them so checked both..also double checked again the power and two grounds to the pcm including the 5v supply from pcm, they all are same as before..

so as usual pcm is giving ground to ASD and fuel relay when key in ON position for few seconds...so its giving ground to them, but not to starter relay hence relay not engaging, checked the relay and swapped it too. no change.
if you just volt meter probe the pins-85 & 86 on starter relay in start position, you see the reading as 11.5v something when battery voltage is 12.2volt higher.. I was like then why relay not clicking, gladly i had test light, first checked the pin 85 &86 on ASD relay to confirm, light illuminates for few seconds which is correct, but same do not happen for starter relay..

in conclusion, voltmeter will give you a reading but there is no ground basically, if pcm gives ground then test light will also light up..glad I had test light to confirm with other relays like ASD...


So what do you think the other signals that could prevent the ground from pcm,
I checked directly at the pcm too, no ground there..pcm to relay wire is perfect, no open/short etc...

I had the pcm case opened to inspect long before when i didn't had anybody to crank the engine and didn't know that ASD, fuel relays will only have ground for 1-3 seconds...the point is , i checked the pin-38 harness c3 on pcm, no burnt or anything on pcm motherboard...everything is fine as it was before...

==>DO you still think the pcm is bad even though there is nothing burnt or is it missing any signal, which is making is not supply ground.....

==> I tried 1 or 2 times to jump the relay while key in crank position, but it didnt start the engine, not sure if it will by doing that...

Note: The new pedal is installed already- with or without it the engine wasn't cranking.so this is not causing it fyi...

voltmeter showed 11.5v something at crank position on pin-85 & 86 but that is misleading i would say because , the relay was not clicking with it. glad i had test light and I used it to see at the asd relay, and test light illuminates but not at starter relay..but if i jump the starter relay the starter engages fine...

So i tried giving battery ground to starer relay , so that i can crank it myself like starting a normal car.. it just cranked and no start, tried doing the same gas pedal trick and no change which is good I would say because its like we are back to the same gas pedal start issue..
I wondered if the fuel pump is giving fuel or not, it primed for sure with key on for 3 seconds, so I sprayed a little bit starter fluid...seems like it started a bit,I would say that is just me spraying it little low fluid(didn't wanna strap a lot for safety)...i was alone doing it...
so since it started with an external fuel it seemed like no fuel coming to it when cranked...now are we back to fuel problem? or bad pcm?

theft light was already there before it was cranking good, just to be safe I was using remote starter (aftermarket) key to unlock the door since my factory key fob not working because of that security light, and the light will go off unless i crank again...but in short I was cranking when there was no light...

so when in crank position, using voltmeter i see 11.5v if connected one lead to 85 and other to 86, but same with test light , it do not light up.. it does when checking ASD....

I didn't see battery voltage at pin-86 in ignition off or ignition only in ON position...nada on voltmeter when other lead connected to battery ground...

so how do you want me to proceed with the fuel, spark seems to be there right, since it kind of started with spraying fluid..fuel pump did primed though and i see fuel in fuel rail, its not that its totally empty...ma be not getting fuel while cranking...

lemme know how to proceed with it..
(I ordered a pcm just for the heck of it, since I am trying things and there is a option for me to return if not needed. so win win for me...)
how long do you want me to remove those fuses, overnight?

so when in crank position, using voltmeter i see 11.5v if connected one lead to 85 and other to 86, but same with test light , it do not light up.. it does when checking ASD....

I didn't see battery voltage at pin-86 in ignition off or ignition only in ON position...nada on voltmeter when other lead connected to battery ground...

so how do you want me to proceed with the fuel, spark seems to be there right, since it kind of started with spraying fluid..fuel pump did primed though and i see fuel in fuel rail, its not that its totally empty...ma be not getting fuel while cranking...

lemme know how to proceed with it..
(I ordered a pcm just for the heck of it, since I am trying things and there is a option for me to return if not needed. so win win for me...)
how long do you want me to remove those fuses, overnight?


Found this in manual: wondering if anything to do with cam or crank sensor on overall issue i have:

"ENGINE START-UP MODE
This is an Open Loop mode. The following actions occur when the starter motor is engaged.
The PCM receives inputs from:
† Battery voltage
† Engine coolant temperature sensor
† Crankshaft position sensor
† Intake manifold air temperature sensor
† Manifold absolute pressure (MAP) sensor
† Throttle position sensor (TPS)
† Starter motor relay
† Camshaft position sensor signal
The PCM monitors the crankshaft position sensor. If the PCM does not receive a crankshaft position sensor signal
within approximately 3 seconds of cranking the engine, it will shut down the fuel injection system.
The fuel pump is activated by the PCM through the fuel pump relay.
Voltage is applied to the fuel injectors with the ASD relay via the PCM. The PCM will then control the injection
sequence and injector pulse width by turning the ground circuit to each individual injector on and off.
The PCM determines the proper ignition timing according to input received from the crankshaft position sensor."

I checked the pin 85 and 86 itself at crank position...with a test light, no light but same shows light on test light at ASD relay(pcm ground like starter relay).

But with voltmeter you see 11.5v when battery voltage is 12.4v something...not sure why voltmeter shows a voltage of any kind between 85 & 86 when test light don't light up at all...and if i just put one lead to pin-86 and other too battery voltage + , no voltmeter reading....that led me use test light at the relay itself..

ya so fuel is priming but may be not opening at crank position or asd relay not opening at crank position or pcm not supplying ground to injectors at crank position or cam and crank sensors signals are not coming in at pcm..

do you want me to check the cam & crank signals at the pcm wires...? it should be at ON position of crank position let me know...? and also do I supply ground to starter relay to engage it while I check any of these two signals? or just key in crank position...

I just opened the clip of fuel rail and saw fuel in it..I would say it is normal as I saw long back when I was installing something and car was perfect at that time... Since I dont have fuel pressure guage , I would say fuel pressure is fine based on my experience on the amount of fuel coming out of fuel rail and with the pressure its coming out, as I saw it when the car was working fine...

ya it cranks only when i supply ground..but this wasn't a problem at all few days ago..not sure what went wrong...theft issue or pcm ..

will try finding fuel guage, but not sure if my hemi has a valve port to check..

will check the cam & crank signal....these readings won't tell you about those yes or no?
(I know right, good scan tool helps, they are expensive)

ya i get that, fuel is not coming at crank..or fuel injectors not opening , both could be the scenarios right? because when we spray in to intake , its not going thru fuel injectors...so they can also be bad meaning not opening...

1) yes I did try starting it in neutral but that was when the starter was not working.. nothing starter wont crank unless provided with ground...

2) The fuses you mentioned 14 & 29 are related to security, Do I remove them and wait for the small currents to discharge or remove it and start the car.? This wont let the pcm say by default that no security found so no start or will it think ok lets start there is no security etc...

3) ya saw couple of them, will watch them again..

4) I see rpm guage needle bounce a little bit not much when cranking and dies to still when not cranking...I wouldn't say its passing the '1' on rpm guage...but if u remember when the car was starting with gas pedal the guage was going to 4,5 because of me pressing it and it was same bouncing a little bit when trying to crank without pressing gas pedal(talking about when crank was fine before)

5) no i didn't mean clog injectors...meant either fuel is not getting from fuel pump or fuel injectors are not turning on since they get ground from pcm and then they open and close...(meant electrical issue not clog), I wont blame ASD for not providing voltage to injectors because i see the voltage...but pcm has the ground control to injectors..

Will replace the pcm as i will be getting it on Saturday and will read those cam and crank signals at pcm at key on and crank position, before that will remove the theft fuses....

Its best I also see if pcm is proving the grounds to injectors....that will isolate the fuel pump and its pressure...

I have been doing this almost all the time when I go back to the car and check it, I leave the battery terminals disconnected but also i have the pcm with me..do its being disconnected almost every time after the crank was not working.. does it need to be connected and the battery terminals disconnected to reset?

the key fob worked may be once or twice when i left the battery disconnected but not after that ....I wanted that to happen again then i can just start the vehicle and see if it does or not... But if I remember correctly i think i did try once when the key fob was working the next day and crank was good....it didn't start, just cranked but soon after that first crank , security light came back....

One important thing, initially when the car didn't start at all for the first time and I saw the security light coming on every time i crank, I tried to reprogram the key may be because the light was annoying and thought its stopping the car to start..My friend has this SBB key programmer and when i tried to connect it, it gave power and the SBB started but it said "ECU not connected/found" which is not ok because i have used this long back to program a second key and worked perfectly...
I am thinking data link connector is bad or what, and will it stop the car from starting or something because of the can bus c+ & - it has...?
(I couldn't do anything with SBB this time , so i unplugged it)
Now even when I connect my obd-2 bluetooth adapter, i have to wiggle it a bit to make it connect.....I am sure its because of the water leak from sunroof which caused the gas pedal to go bad for sure..and the data link connector is all open...

or may be when SBB said ECU not found, its may be SKIM module right? or the datalink connector itself... obd2 adapter works fine though, can read codes but need to wiggle to see power to it initially....

SKIM is inside the ignition switch?

ya the security light comes on always and to eliminate that i use my remote starter unlock button which is making it go off and as soon as I crank it (whether the crank was working few days ago or not working now), it comes back on...

Been disconnecting battery , cables, pcm, leaving headlight after disconnecting battery to discharge any small amount of current to reset the security..it comes back on always...like i mentioned goes off if i press remote starter unlock button but after one crank comes back on...

I wonder how to reset it, will remove the fuses and try , didn't try because was waiting for the pcm that i ordered today... tomorrow should be the judgement day which will eliminate the pcm for sure, but hope this security light wont come in the way to confuse me...

this would let us know if the security disturbing all this...

Will update on it...

I wanna do the sequence,

1) check the cam & crank signals at pcm by just connecting black c1 harness to pcm , and not connect all other c2 and c3 harness, beacuse all the cam and crank need is 5v and ground..which comes from c1 harness...will read those signals for info...

2) will connect/check connectors if disconnected to diagnose and connect this new pcm and use jumper battery to unlock the doors and then disconnect the jumper and get access to the trunk fuse box as the car is unlocked, remove those 14 & 29 fuses and wait 5- 10 minutes, and then connect back and see if security goes off if it was active when connected the jumper battery to unlock the doors...if not just try cranking the car..

3) will update you on what happens...the gas pedal was for sure gone bad because of the moisture because pins 2-3 & 4-5 should have continuity beep when using meter but there was none on old sensor...

1) i have two keys and i double checked them, they are 3+volts...they are fine.. and was also confirmed when one or two times when left the battery cables disconnected, they worked until the first crank...
they are good..

2) Ya i will try replacing it and see if it works , if its not the issue then i can return it..seller told me..

3) This is plug and play pcm, its been programmed to my VIN and mileage and its the same part number...
I asked them twice if the keys need to be changed or anything...but this is plug and play, since the VIN and mileage is mathcing the pcm and SkIM and mileage in other places like cluster or may be skim(not sure) etc....

if I had four plugs on pcm then its NGC style pcm and won't be plug and play it seems...

Are you saying even after programming the pcm to my VIn number , it wont accept it?they confirmed its plug and play now..lets say if not, i can program my keys again with that SBB key programmer...but this time hope it dont say ECU not found..

if my obd scanner gives me codes does that mean ECU is communication right? but SBB said ECU not found...wonder is it talking about SKIM? may be i just need to wiggle the wire to program the keys if needed by this new pcm, but they said no need.