Kia Ceed 2011 1.4 CVVT (P0011)

Hello,

My father has a Kia C'eed 2011 1.4 CVVT with P0011 fault code = crank + no start or stalling at idle(engine load 65% on idle) - with throttle slightly open the car runs fine (25% load).
I've managed to check the VVT solenoid valve (KOEO/sensor plugged/ground side switched) and measurements with voltmeter were 12V feed, 11,5V control wire. When I've unplugged the sensor the reading was 12V feed and 2,8V control wire). I'm assuming it has a bad ground or is it PWM at only KOEO? Help me please answer this question. Thank you very much.

Oh, and I've also checked the fuel injector (just because it is a solenoid and i wanted to compare readings) - sensor plugged (KOEO ground side switched 12V/12V) and with sensor unplugged (feed 12V, 8V control wire). Is it normal reading at with the fuel injectors? It should be almost 0V sensor unplugged.

Thank you for your feedback.

Thanks again.

Hey ione! For the record, I don't think they sell the C'eed in the US, or the 1.4L engine. Still, I think we can work through this one. Before we go too deep, how's the engine oil level and condition? First step on any VVT issue like this.

The voltage readings you took seem reasonable, since it's likely that the PCM is using some kind of bias voltage/signal on the control wires of the VVT solenoid and injectors for diagnostic purposes. The VVT solenoid isn't gonna get controlled until the engine is off idle and (likely) with the transmission in gear.

Does the P0011 reset immediately after clearing and attempting to start? The crank no start and stalling at idle suggest a genuine base timing issue, possibly due to a stuck VVT solenoid or actuator (the gear on the camshaft). The actuator is harder to test for with out engine disassembly, but you can pretty easily test for a stuck solenoid.

The easiest way would be to disconnect the solenoid and apply power and ground with jumper wires. Listen for an audible click. If you don't hear one, remove the solenoid and inspect it. If you do hear it click, start the engine and have someone hold the engine off idle while you power the solenoid again. Cycle it on and off several times. Let the engine idle again and see if it still stalls. The idea here is to possibly un-stick a stuck actuator by rapidly cycling oil pressure to the actuator.

If you're a Premium member, there's a fantastic video available with the same code on a Kia Optima:

www.scannerdanner.com/scannerdanner-prem...WyJraWEiLCJraWEncyJd

Hello Tyler, thank you for your reply.
The CEL popped so the oil was changed and I've checked oil level and it was good. Yesterday I've managed to take out the VVT solenoid and run my own power and ground through it and it clicked fine and there were no visible oil chunks or debris, so I think it might be fine (I didn't measured the amperage though).

Today I've found the troubleshooting guide of this particular model and you're absolutely right, it does provide a bias voltage to the injectors on the control wire (it got me confused, I haven't thought of bias on injectors or VVT solenoid).

Yes, after resetting codes the P0011 popped right back on rough idle. So cleared again but this time it popped the P0016 Crankshaft position/camshaft position, bank 1 sensor A -correlation. After checking the CKP and CPS sensors which readings were fine I'm thinking about stretched or jumped timing chain by a tooth or some but I don't have a scope to check that out.

But anyways your feedback verified and answered my question, thank you for your time, you've been very helpful. PS: Yes, I've subscribed and I'm learning from these amazing videos. Yep I've seen that great video, again thank you.

No problem! You're way ahead of me on most counts. :blush: :silly:

You could dual trace scope the cam/crank relationship, but I dunno that we're gonna be able to find you a known good for comparison. At this point it may be easier/cheaper to buy some service info and manually verify timing.

The only other thing I could suggest would be to do that un-sticking procedure I described. You know the solenoid moves, so all that's left is the actuator or base timing. I've had luck doing that on many different makes/models. It's common enough that several makes (Kia included) have 'phaser cleaning' functions built into the scan tool that do roughly the same thing, automatically.

Ah I understand, I will do that test. I haven't thought about camshaft actuator could be stuck, I'm still new to this automotive diagnosis stuff . Thank you again for your advice.

Sure thing, let me know how it goes!

So my dad got ahead of me and he went to shop and they checked the car and it was a jumped timing chain. I wanted to do that manual "phaser cleaning" method though .

So we were right, thank you again for your suggestions, I've learned a lot from your feedback I appreciate it.

Ah well, sorry you didn't get to do the phaser cleaning. Still glad to hear that shop got the problem nailed down. Thanks for the update!