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This is my first time posting and asking for help. I have done all necessary research but I’m at a loss. 2004 Mazda 6 2.3 L3 VE engine. Did motor swap and simply pug and played. No touching CKP sensor or harmonic balancer. However, the replacement motors crank pulley wheel was 1/2 inch bigger and sensor bolt pattern was different. Everything else is the same. I have great compression, fuel pump is priming but I get no RPM or fuel or spark. I have watching many diagnostic vids on YouTube and done all necessary tests to confirm continuity from CKP and that there is no open or short in wiring. All sensors have the proper volt refs. HELP!
Was thinking about that but I think I got a short now that I finally found the testing specs the the two wire plug for the CKP. Prodemand site says I should have a 12 volt ref on KOEO. I only have about 3 volts. Figured it was good since the average is about 3 from what I was reading online. Ugh.
Think I’m going to check 12 volt ref behind the PCM plug with KOEO and see. If so I will bypass the harness straight to the plug and see if that’s it. Going to watch some more scanner vids on how to test that properly. Wish me luck.
Scannerdanner!!!!!!! Need help brother. Hope all is well with the fam.
So here is where I am, I need some help on where else to test.
I backprobed the PCM connector signal wire for the CKP and got a steady 2.5 volts with KOEO. When cranking it, I get 2.8 steady. I have continuity in both ground and signal from the harness to PCM. Just thought I would try this test in case I wasn’t testing properly and because the damn component tests on prodemand say it should have a 12v ref on KOEO.
I’m lost as to what’s up with this thing and if I should even be getting a 12v ref on a two wire Hall effect sensor.
What year engine did you put in it? Have you pulled the cam sensor and count teeth and compare to old engine? I went through this putting an 06' in an 05'. Had to swap front cover... crank pulley and one cam.
I’m trying to figure that out. Do you know how to decode the block vin?
The seller is out right now so waiting for him to get back to me. We have been talking off and on and he’s been helpful but swears up and down the motor will work.
I dunno why Mitchell is suggesting there should be 12V on the CKP circuit. The 2.5V bias you saw sounds correct. I'd disregard that 12V thing for now.
How are the crankshaft pulleys different, exactly?
What year of vehicle did the replacement engine come out of? From what I've found, in 2006 the CKP sensor changed from a VRS (two wire) to a Hall effect (three wire). CMP is the same way. The sensor reluctors are also different.
The pulley or harmonic balancer is simply bigger in diameter by a half an inch but after counting teeth it has 35 just like the old motor so the motor must be within the 03-05 range. The cam shaft has 5 timing teeth in both engines as well but the CKP sensor is different in bolt pattern not wire count. The old sensor has an equal bolt pattern whereas the new one is elongated. They are both a two wire Hall effect. Everything is the same otherwise.
When I look up sensors for the 03-05 they are the same as old motor and you are right, as soon as I go to 2006 it’s a three wire. After searching the CKP sensor at autozone to match we found a fusion two wire sensor that fit it. I can’t find when year the motor was or what car it came out of. Confused as hell to say the least but the block says Mazda...lol. I know ford uses L3-VE motors so you guess is as good as mine.
What else could cause a no RPM other than CKP sensor or circuit?
It could be that the cam and crank are out of time, and the PCM can't figure out the spark and injection timing because of it. There's a specific procedure for checking chain timing on these engines that requires special tools. The tools aren't expensive, if that's what it comes down to. You can also use a dual trace lab scope to check timing, when compared to a known good waveform.
Before we go down that path, lets back up a bit. No spark and injection pulse? Do the injectors have power during cranking? Do the coils spark at all when cranking? Does the coil pack have power during cranking?
One of the quick indicators of a timing problem is one or two sparks during cranking before it stops completely. It's not a smoking gun, but it can point us in the right direction.
There is power to the coil pack. No spark at all, the coil pack is good. The fuel pump is good and clicks on to pressurize. There is no way the timing is off. Never touched it. All cylinders have a solid 240 psi.
MBMazda wrote: There is power to the coil pack. No spark at all, the coil pack is good. The fuel pump is good and clicks on to pressurize. There is no way the timing is off. Never touched it. All cylinders have a solid 240 psi.
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Not throwing doubt on you, but just because you never touched the balancer yourself doesn't necessarily mean that no body did.
Is it possible that someone might have removed the balancer to get the engine out and bolted it back on, or maybe even turned the engine backwards during disassembly?
I've seen some strange stuff when it comes to used engines...
If you'd care to post the VIN on the block, I can try to decode it for you
Okay guys. This one is pretty embarrassing but when you have your 17 year old helping...trust me..it can happen. It was a 15 amp injector fuse in the fuse box that was missing. Let’s just say he was excited but I was pissed. Lol.
Now I have to figure out why she won’t stay running. Think I will recheck all fuses again. Lol.
Topic Author
The 2.5V bias you saw sounds correct. I'd disregard that 12V thing for now.
