check engine and AT lights activate upon flooring the accelerator pedal

I think whatever problem we have is connected to that MAF/IAT sensor or something is shorting it. Hopefully it's not damaging the sensor.

The same code didn't come back(P2138), but other codes showed. Here's the shot of those codes, sorry for not specifying that yesterday.

danield wrote: The same code didn't come back(P2138), but other codes showed. Here's the shot of those codes, sorry for not specifying that yesterday.

Ohhhhh OK! Gotcha. I dunno if I should be disappointed or excited? :silly:

I'd like to leave the jumper in and test for voltage at the MAF/IAT or the BARO sensor, if that's OK with you. Either one, doesn't matter. Check all wires and let me know what you find.

I feel like we're still circling around a broken sensor ground wire.

Info dump for my benefit, and anyone else following along. :lol: Finally figured out why this APP has a power feed, thanks to the Snappy Troubleshooter. It's been bugging me, since most APP's use two potentiometers with no power feed.

Turns out, the APP1 signal is a duty cycle. :silly: APP2 is a more conventional linear voltage signal. APP2 is supposed to go from around 1.0V with the pedal released, to around 3.5V fully depressed. APP1 should be about 6% fully released.

I don't think my harness has the same color wires as the diagram your using. Please tell me if I'm jumping this right. This were the reads at the MAF/IAT with the jumper at the APP.

If they're wrong, please tell me where to put them.

The harness doesn't match? :huh: I'm pretty sure it's the same... Here's the OE diagram with pin colors and positions in the connector:



The colors and positions seem OK to me?

It looks like you've got the white jumped to the green/yellow? Remove that and instead jump the solid yellow wire to ground. The battery negative post would be best, but that'll likely involve several jumper wires. :lol: A body ground would likely work, if going to the battery isn't possible. One of the brake booster studs, or the door latch striker are usually good candidates.

This jump was the only one different, the first reads were from the right black to yellow jump. I'll put them back and try again.

Ok, here we go again. The live data is with KOEO and KOER, look at how that temperature changes to freezing -40°when the car is on. Now, the yellow wire is grounded to the battery negative. Here are the screenshots of the voltage reads with KOEO.

Nothing for me today Mr. Tyler? I hope all is well.

Hey Daniel! I haven't forgotten about this one, just got overwhelmed at work. I'll get back to this ASAP.

No problem Mr. Tyler, I'm in Florida until Wednesday so I took a break until then. I'll be waiting for your next step. Thank you and I hope the load lifts a little at work.

In back Mr. Tyler, ready whenever you are. Thank you

Tyler-correct me if I'm wrong, but the IAT sensor -40F is this bias voltage or "limp home mode"?

Waiting on you Mr. Tyler, what's the next step?