replaced fuel pump on return less in tank system; corolla 2000 CE it shorted out

After re-wiring after market fuel pump it shorted out. I heard a loud pow sound behind drivers seat. Fuel pump assembly is behind the driver seat.

Checked fuses and relays with test light with battery ground there is power in pins.

Checked power source connector, by fuel pump, connector yellow wire has is the power pin; inside assembly wired red wire to fuel pump and top connector yellow power pin; wired black and green wires to ground inside fuel pump assembly.The top connector knows where ground is in place.

However original wire pattern was wired to 3 dark wires join together with the power at center point between two connector is this a series type wiring where power loops with sending unit ground and cpu signal wire inside the assembly?

There are circuit breakers that may have protected cpu thats good and I may have wired in parallel by separating power n ground whereas in original wiring power looped with dark wires inside the assembly?

I am rewritng this problem because its been a week that I posted it no response?
Thank you all.

I am having a hard time following your process here...
If you have power and ground at the pump and the pump does not run, then you need a new pump.

Like wise, if you have power and ground at the pump there's no circuit fault like fuses, relays, circuit breakers etc..

Hello Noah,
Thank you for your reply.

On ebay I had purchased two fuel pumps both where defective. I just never would think ebay sellers don't know they are selling defective parts.

I crank the fuel pump ten times to get 50lbs then it made a loud pow sound behind my head where the access assembly is, I thought I had blown out all my relays and cpu.

Thank you for your observations and direction it will test fuel pump in water with mbattery direct current to verify fault in pump.

I did not want to pay 450.00 at toyota dealership they to rape your wallet.

Respectfully,
Alex andrameda271@gmail.com

Hello Noah,
The fuel regulator in this in tank assembly unit the old one held vacum pressure without dropping; the new regulator leaked pressure is this normal behavior for in tank fuel regulators?

Respeectfully,
Alex.

I've never tested an in tank regulator like that. It's not like there's a vacuum line from the engine to the tank, so the regulator isn't dependant on vacuum to function.

This is very difficult to read and it's hard to understand what you are saying, so i'm just going to clarify a couple things:

So you have 3 wires, right? One is pump power, one is sending unit power, and one is ground. I don't know what you mean by the loops and series stuff. There are 2 separate circuits that only share the same ground.

The in-tank regulators work off of pressure. They have a spring inside that bleeds off fuel when the pressure gets high enough to overcome the spring inside.

You need to stick with one thing at a time, or you are going to get confused. Don't worry about the regulator yet, just get the thing wired up correctly first. If you have a hard time figuring out which wire goes where, post some pictures of the setup you have, and we will try to assist you from there.

Everyone on here loves to help, but it's difficult if we aren't clear what you are trying to say. I hope you understand that I am not trying to sound rude, we do want to help you.

Hello Tech Whisper,
Thank you for your response, I have been working on the car steady away from the website applying what Paul is teaching on videos and revisiting the patient making notes of unusual discoveries and behaviors.

Yes, the mind is in a confused state because its learning in puts are greater then or equal to the thousand questions during the learning process, synthesizing and distilling the complex engineering techniques of integrated circuitry and their main principals which often comes with governing principals to maintain balance, amplitude, frequency and vibrational pulses in synchronization to mechanical motion orchestrating the functions of sensors, transistors, fuses, relays, and modules controlled by computer, it amazing however grueling because i did not have a head start in learning and the car suddenly has more then one problem so it is not fun at all the pressure is on to perform emergency CPR.

Fuel pump was weak pulling up a false code P0171 lean condition.

Fuel regulator was mentioned because I put a vacuum to the fuel regulator it did not hold vacuum it leaked down. I purchased a defective part it would seem however the original regulator under vacuum held never leaking? So is this normal or is it defective in a stuck state? This while reassembling the fuel sending unit one month ago.

Test & discoveries:

What shut down the car's computer was not the fuel pump it was reading 50 lbs while cranking.

It was an after market alarm and remote system I never new existed. My foot hit a toggle switch on the foot panel and some how it was activated even though its wires where found cut off however the power pak and my foot trips the modules logic circuits.

All relays ohm and tested under load.

All fuses good not blown, except for three 10 fuses on inside the dash ; 2 inside engine fuse box; there is no power going through these three fuses, the filaments are fine.

No power from the load side of fuses on battery side terminals the ground side is good battery to pos+ lights up.

Crank sensor: ohm is 2000; cam ohm is 1045 ; on connector side no power from battery on both sensors; no injectors; no coils; no spark; no fuel pump action either, just crank.

reconnected both sensors back probed signal wire crank reads 2 for voltage ref; cam reads 000 in reverse polarity on the meter.

Bypass taps on both crank and cam signal wires no meter reading; while cranking the reluctance gears no RPMs readings while bumping ignition key.

Haynes wiring diagrams is all I got.

Don't know how to check for ECU powers n grounds yet?

Don't know how to follow wire maps to find spliced circuits?

don't know how to find connector pins on computer?

Voltmeter has an amp setting for current flow.

No scoop!

Is voltage regulator in computer damaged?

Is transistor switches unable to reverse pulse through ground side back to battery?

Is my cam sensor dead?

If I need a new computer how will I be able to program it without a scoop?

Battery is clean terminal cables; cells read 2.0 volts each; charge is 12.76 drops to 12.45 after 3 hours of cranking, lowest was 11 .43.

Removed after market devise and re-spliced original wires and sealed open insulation.

Its been intense learning thank you for any or all support and recognition and considerations! Its a joy to plug into your world!

Respectfully,
Alexander Gonzalez.

Hello Noah,
Hello Tech Whisper,
Thank you for your response, I have been working on the car steady away from the website applying what Paul is teaching on videos and revisiting the patient making notes of unusual discoveries and behaviors. Able to attach pics

Yes, the mind is in a confused state because its learning in puts are greater then or equal to the thousand questions during the learning process, synthesizing and distilling the complex engineering techniques of integrated circuitry and their main principals which often comes with governing principals to maintain balance, amplitude, frequency and vibrational pulses in synchronization to mechanical motion orchestrating the functions of sensors, transistors, fuses, relays, and modules controlled by computer, it amazing however grueling because i did not have a head start in learning and the car suddenly has more then one problem so it is not fun at all the pressure is on to perform emergency CPR.

Fuel pump was weak pulling up a false code P0171 lean condition.

Fuel regulator was mentioned because I put a vacuum to the fuel regulator it did not hold vacuum it leaked down. I purchased a defective part it would seem however the original regulator under vacuum held never leaking? So is this normal or is it defective in a stuck state? This fuel regulator issue came up earlier, while reassembling the fuel sending unit one month ago, when I had joined 9/22/18; and did not get a response to help me discern fuel regulator in a return-less system so the new possibly defective fuel regulator is installed assuming that the old one was stuck. It is now installed into the tank with new fuel pump. Fuel pump was tested directly with battery power it works good no reverse polarity wiring its sweet it was not the cause of the no start; no injector;no spark something else was the cause.

Test & discoveries:

What shut down the car's computer was not the fuel pump, it was reading 50 lbs while cranking.

It was an after market alarm and remote system, I never new existed. My foot hit a toggle switch on the foot panel and some how it was activated, even though found 2 wires cut off; however the power pak and my foot trips the after market module's logic circuits into anti-theft mode shutting the cars fuel pump; no spark and no injectors.

All relays working, ohmed and tested under load.

All fuses good not blown, except for 3 10amps fuses; 1 fuse inside the dash ; 2- 10 amp fuses inside engine fuse box; there is no power going through these three fuses, the filaments are fine not blown. Paul, says in video, that these unblown fuses are not getting the power feed from the ground side of the computer implying no return power on ground side, of fuses?

No power, from the load side of fuses terminal, on battery side, the ground terminal of fuse does not light up when test light to bat neg so ground side is good; to confirm this test light to battery pos+ it lights up on the ground side terminal of fuses.

Crank sensor: ohm is 2000; cam ohm is 1045 ; on connector side; no power from battery on both sensors; this is a new symptom after cutting after market devise, from under dash board; no injectors; no coils; no spark; no fuel pump action either, just crank. coils still show power to connectors.

reconnected both sensors; back probed signal wire; crank reads 2 voltage ref; cam reads 000, in reverse polarity, on the meter no reference voltage it pulls down to 000.

Bypass taps, on both crank and cam signal wires simultaneously; no meter reading; while cranking the reluctance gears, no RPMs readings, while bumping ignition key no average volts.

resources n deficit in skills:

Haynes wiring diagrams is all I got.

Don't know how to check for ECU powers n grounds yet?

Don't know how to follow wire maps to find spliced circuits?

don't know how to find connector pins on computer?

Voltmeter, has an amp setting, for current flow under load.

No scope; no wave form readings!

Is voltage regulator in computer damaged?

Is transistor switches unable to reverse pulse, through ground side of computer, back to battery?

Is my cam sensor dead?

If I need a new computer, how will I be able to program it, without a scope?

Battery has clean terminals n cables; battery cells read 2.0 volts each; charge is 12.76 drops to 12.45 after 3 hours of cranking, lowest was 11 .43 it never dropped below 10.

Removed after market devise and re-spliced original wires and sealed open insulation. New symptom no power to crank n cam sensor; crank does read 2 ref volts; cam reads 000 on signal n power wires with reverse polarity indicator on meter?

Its been intense learning; thank you for any or all support and recognition and considerations! Its a joy to plug into your world!

The car sits in drive way, with a beaten down diagnostic student, staring into space!

Respectfully,
Alexander Gonzalez.

[attachment=after market relay spliced was removed not certain if it belonged/attachment] [attachment=aftermarket alarm removed/attachment] [attachment=computer home[/attachment] [attachment=passenger side modul.JPG[/ dash yelow wire spliced between 2 red wires where a relay was found it was removed[/attachment]