2006 Lancer 2.0 a/t Crank Sensors going crazy dilema

Hey everyone. I have this 2006 Mitsubishi Lancer ES (2.0 4g94 automatic) P0335 (had p0340 too but resolved) the original crank sensor had gone out on the car, being in a tight spot had replaced it with a Chinese sensor, only lasted one day. Replaced it again with a Japanese sensor, everything was well for about a week then it would turn off after about 15 minutes of driving. If I waited 5 minutes it would turn back on. Kept doing the same thing. Codes P0335 and P0340 would come up. Replaced cam sensor with OEM but problem stayed. With a scanner under live data. When it would turn off the Crank Sensor would only read half a second then go blank. Unless again I waited 5min. I decided to chuck up the money once and for all and replace the CKPS with an OEM Mitsubishi Crank Sensor. Worked well. For about 3 days. Driving out of work it turns off. Wouldn’t want to start for the life of me. Again with the code P0335 for Crank Sensor. What on earth is going on with this car? It’s ruined 3 crank sensors plus the original one and now a completely and expensive OEM one. I’m at a total loss. I’ve gone to two other mechanics for help and they can’t come up with an explanation. Car has brand new oem reluctor wheel too. 12v positive to the correct wire, ground wire has good ground and single wire has continuity. On the timing cover which acts as a plug for the CKPS also has perfect continuity on all 3 pins. Has anyone ever had this issue and was able to resolve it? Someone save me! Thanks in advance.

Found a Mitsubishi TSB that sounds right up your alley. Has to do with the camshaft position sensor support (the thing the CMP mounts to). Disregard if you've already performed this.



If that's a swing and miss, then I'd suggest getting a DVOM or scope on either the CKP or CMP signal wires during the crank no start. At this point, the details of the waveform don't matter as much as knowing if one or the other is dead. Compare to when the engine is running to get an idea of what to look for.

If using a dvom for your testing maybe compare to a clear flood cranking as your voltage will be lower (when read on a dvom because of the low sample rate) while cranking then while running.

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What is the sensor held on by? Does it have a separate bracket?

Is it not possible that the air gap between the sensor and pickup wheel is increasing due to heat expansion? Therefore causing the sensor to not have any signal..?

I know vw's are very sensitive to the airgap, if its a little off the car wouldnt start.

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