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I have a 1997 kis Sportage and it seems I can't find much info on it. But I have injectors that are reading battery volt on both sides long crank time and the iac is shorted but it's not reading the o2's they are new when I put then in they did check out bad and had good power and grounds no shorts anywhere. New pump and filter they where also bad runs about 3 miles shuts down and have a heck of a time starting it. Now it starts runs to just above 100 dagrees and shuts off. All the wires are good got all my powers and grounds good computer is good. Its been 3 days testing the hard way with very little wiring diagrams to be found. I can't pay for the pay diagrams. So I've been doing it all the old school way I have a pocket scope but don't have an amp clamp yet so I been back probing to get readings so far it worked on most of it. I'm missing something but not sure what can you give me a little advise. It's a 2.0 eng. 4x4 allso. Thanks
Ok first it's normal to have power on both sides of injectors when there connected the pcm pulses the ground to fire injectors. So what you're looking for is the pulsed ground when watching the injectors I assume what is going on here is a sensor such as a crank sensor is during when it gets warm which will take away ignition control what you need to donor test this is check for spark and injection pulse once it has warmed up and died you can connect your scope to either the coil control or injector control wire and see if your pulse disappears when it dies if so you'll move to the crank sensor and again at a cold start monitor your wave form till the instant it dies what you may see is that not keeps reading as the engine spins to a stop or it may stop reading or slowly the signal may change to an unrecognizable signal until the pcm can't translate it here is a source for free diagrams of you can't find what you need just request them someone can post diagrams for you
www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Maybe check the ECT/ECT circuit for a problem? If this Kia is set up with dual range resistors, possibly an issue when it switches to the "hot curve"?
With the ground lead of your voltmeter connected to good ground (I use the B(-) terminal whenever I can), backprobe the signal wire on your ECT (leaving it plugged in). The signal wire should be YEL/RED. Watch the voltage to see if it decreases from ~4.5 on a cold engine as it warms up. Around 120 degrees the voltage may all of the sudden jump higher from it's decreasing voltage (i.e. jumps from 1V to 3V) and then starts to decrease again. Pay note to see if the voltage fixes at ~5V or ~0V at the time of that jump and stays there.
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