Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

CANBUS or bad PCM

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6 years 6 days ago #20465 by Dreamcatcher300
Hello everyone

I live in the UK and own a chrysler 300c. My scan tool recently stopped communicating with my PCM but prior to this i had DTC's for no communication between PCM, ABS module and TCM.

Of recent the car has behaved abnormal and now starts and stops randomly, the speedometer works intermittently and the parking brake light is constantly on.

The transmition won't shift beyond 2nd gear and this all started after leaving the car standing for 3 weeks and the battery going dead. I've since recharged the battery and on DVOM its reads 14.7v with engine on but the dash EVIC reads only 13.7v.

Is there anyway I can test the CANBUS without a scan tool?

Can anyone make sense of the symptoms?

Have a fabulous day

Mick

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6 years 6 days ago #20476 by Dylan
Replied by Dylan on topic CANBUS or bad PCM
Welcome to the forum Mick. I'm moving your thread to the repair section for further help ;)

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6 years 6 days ago #20478 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic CANBUS or bad PCM
if you can get us a wiring diagram we can help. o dont know if its the same as a u.s.a. chrysler 300. if the dlc is the same as ours you can check the resistance between pins 6 and 14 you should see 60 ohms. thats an easy test to start with

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6 years 5 days ago #20516 by Bashar Londontech-UK
Would you please put the Model year, VIN/ or Chassis No. and the Engine Code (if possible). This will help to check if I have a relevant Tech Infos Regarding the CAN Bus System. The Engine and ABS share a high speed CAN bus; which is also called class C. Most makes enables a basic CAN checking at the diagnostic connector; between pins 6 & 14; With the ignition on if there is voltage between these two, then there is a CAN activity. Next you switch ignition off and wait until the voltage goes off, then switch your multimeter to Ohms and a healthy physical layer CAN should read around 60 Ohms with a good margin of tolerance. The aim here is to check for no open or short in the Network. This is only a basic check, accurate checking requires a Scope.
Bashar Alqasim
London-UK

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