2000 Honda civic LX, crank, no start.

2000 Honda civic LX D16YZ engine, 4 speed auto, crank no start, no injection pulse, no spark. DTC's are unknown because I do not own a scanner.

No control on coil (-), test light stays lit, coil is not shorted or open because I was able to bypass the ICM and make the coil spark.
Here's what I've gathered so far, everything AFTER the ignition coil is good, however the control side is suspect.

The issue lies within the connector that goes into the distributor. On the bottom row of pins, these pins are on the ground side of the circuit yet the last pin on the far right has power. This is a short to ground on the wire or worse case scenario a shorted driver correct?

Also, top pins all have faint ground signals, except for the top right pin, it's completely dead, that top right pin is my CKP sensor if I'm correct.

Here's a video if it helps. Sorry about it being inverted. Also bear with me, this is my very first time diagnosing a car.

Pulling codes would probably help with a direction to go, I don't work on this style Honda ignition often so I can't say if what your seeing on your distributor connector is correct, someone else may have more insight to that. but I would recommend a cheap obd2 code reader for a diagnostic direction . Does it have injection pulse?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

It doesn't have injection pulse, I would get a cheap code reader but don't think I can buy one yet.

Also check engine light doesn't come on either.

Ok it could be that the bulb has been removed or the pcm is not powered up or is shorted either way we will want to check for a 5v reference at a sensor (which 1 won't matter so much) a diagram would help in identifying which sensors have 5v to them but typically your cam and crank sensors your map and maf sensors your tps sensor and several others will have a 5v ref a ground and a signal wire check any one of them for 5v if there is no 5v ref check for power and ground to pcm I'll pull a diagram and direct you further if that's where this leads but start with 5v check

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Definitely agree with the 5V reference check. Very quick test to see if the PCM is working, CEL or not.

I can tell you that most of those pins don't react because they're sensor inputs out of the distributor. There's three separate VR-type sensors in the distributor, two wires each, for six total. The one wire that lights is probably the coil/ICM power feed. Download and open the diagram below. It's an excellent represenation of this system.



While you're doing voltage checks, do the injectors have power during cranking? I ask because the injectors and the PCM share the same power feed.

The injectors do have power, and I could bypass them to spray too. I'll look at the diagram, thanks for giving it to me.

Update.

Key OFF (Literally in my hands at this point) PCM driver appears to be shorted, with test light connected to power, the control wire STAYS lit/on 
 
Disconnected PCM 
  
Test light goes out

What do you guys think?

I really need you guys help on this one please.

Did you check 5v reference?

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Does the engine have to be cranking to check 5v references?

I had KOEO and checked at the intake air temperature sensor and it was low voltage.

I tried to t-pin the other sensors but the rubber was too tough. I may need a piercing probe.

Here's a component diagram I used.

Lots of progress so far.

Tested for 5v references and they are not present.
I got .030 - .170 volts.
TPS sensor is unresponsive, the readings stayed static even when at WOT.

G101 computer ground is good.
No short to ground on sensor wires.
No open on sensor wires.
Sensors wires have a good ground.

I have to say it must be the ECM. Circuit integrity is good all around

What do you guys think?

Are you saying that the yellow and green wire from the PCM to the distributer is always grounded? Including with the key on or off and also while cranking?
If I'm on the same page you are, it sounds like a killed PCM when you add the lack of a CEL and no 5v ref.
Also, not not picking, but to check the 5v reference on a thermistor, (i think you said you checked the intake air temp sensor?), the sensor must be disconnected.
I like to check the tps right there on the throttle body. With the key on, you can unplug it and just check all 3 pins with a volt meter.
Technically, you'd want to back probe the connector in case that sensor happened to be pulling the 5v ref to ground. You'd miss it by disconnecting it, but I don't think that's going to be super critical.