[FIXED] 2015 Jeep Renegade 1.4T Engine Not Shutting Down with IGN Off

Hi Guys,

I had a cool one come in today. Took just over an hour to diagnose it and replicate the codes while bypassing the faulty component. I marked this as "fixed" even though I have yet to replace the part but I was able to confirm and replicate the problem. Tomorrow I will install the component.

2015 Jeep Renegade 1.4L Turbo AWD

Customer Complaint: Engine not shutting off when turning key to OFF position and many "service" messages on instrument panel. Electric power steering is intermittent as well. (Service Engine, Service Power Steering, Service Airbag)

My Initial diagnosis started with a code scan and I kept the ignition on with engine running in case the problem would disappear. Well the codes where a bit distracting to say the least. I saw all the communication problems and thought I should check the CAN Bus waveform so I did. It didn't look great, I'll get the snap shot tomorrow. Though the "look" of the waveform could have sent me down the head scratching abyss. I decided that it wasn't enough evidence for me to check power and grounds on BCM (common denominator) so I decided to check the next common denominator which was the ignition switch.

Long story short, there is a brown wire from the ignition switch which seems to only need to supply power during the "start" attempt. For some reason I think It supplies power in run too but I"ll confirm that tomorrow with the new ignition switch. Well issue was that the IGN switch was still supplying between 9-10.5v on that wire in OFF, ACC and RUN and 12v+ in START. I removed that wire from the equation and manually applied and removed power from that wire and was able to get the vehicle working properly. If I supply power to that wire with the ignition in any position other than START I would get all the communication codes again.

My theory is the BCM was still alive while other modules where shutting down possibly yet the BCM was still expecting communication. Seems other modules may have been slightly alive as well.



CODE SCAN RESULTS
Systems detected : 11
Engine - Codes : 1
Antilock Brakes - Codes : 6
Airbag - Codes : 2
Body Control Module (BCM) - Codes : 9
Drive Train Control Module (DTCM) - Codes : 2
Electric Power Steering (EPS) - Codes : 3
Heat Ventilation A/C (HVAC) - Codes : 2
Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) - Codes : 1
Radio (RRM) - Codes : 2
Radio Frequency Hub (RFH) - Codes : 2
Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) - Codes : 2

Engine
U11DD Body Control Module Signal Invalid

Antilock Brakes
525286H/5395078 Undocumented Code
540B94H/5507988 Undocumented Code
540301H/5505793 Undocumented Code
540501H/5506305 Undocumented Code
D70086H/14090374 Undocumented Code
D93286H/14234246 Undocumented Code

Airbag
U1932 Ignition working condition signal from BCM - Signal Invalid
U1930 Internal ignition working condition signal - Signal Invalid

Body Control Module (BCM)
B1000 Electronic Control Unit - Watchdog / Safety Failure - Stored
B1101 Run Start relay command open - Actuator Stuck Open - Stored
B1105 Physical Key in fault - Signal Invalid
B1112 Run relay command - Over Current - Stored
U0433 Minikript error - Missing Message - Stored
U1701 ECM (Engine Control Module) - Missing Message
U1701 ECM (Engine Control Module) - Erratic
U1765 RFHM (Radio Frequency Hub Module) - Missing Message
U1930 ECU Operational Mode Status - Signal Invalid

Drive Train Control Module (DTCM)
C2020 ECU Internal Fault - Unexpected Operation - Stored
C2502 ECM TC Fail Status or Transmission Fail Status or DST Fail Status or ESC Fail Status or ECM EMS Fail Status or GE Electric Steering Fail Status - Signal Plausibility Failure

Electric Power Steering (EPS)
C1200 Battery voltage - Circuit Intermittent - Stored
C1214 CONF DATA CODE REQUEST Message - Missing Message - Stored
U1932 Operational Mode Status signal from BCM COMMAND Message not Valid - Signal Invalid

Heat Ventilation A/C (HVAC)
U1932 Status BCM 1 Message (3) (From Body Control Module) - Signal Invalid
U1930 Climate Control Mode Status Info (Internal Signal) - Signal Plausibility Failure

Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
B1002 IPC Operational Mode Status - Signal Plausibility Failure

Radio (RRM)
U1930 Operational Mode Status Internal - Signal Invalid
U1932 Operational Mode Status CAN signal - Signal Invalid

Radio Frequency Hub (RFH)
B1033 Operational Mode Status 1 - Signal Plausibility Failure
U2071 BCM Command Message Status - Signal Incorrect After Event

Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM)
B1033 Operational Mode Status 1 - Signal Plausibility Failure
U2071 BCM Command Message Status - Signal Incorrect After Event

That code list makes my head hurt. :silly: Thanks for posting, sir!

While this thing was acting up, how were you/the customer actually getting the thing to shut off? Pull fuses? Mostly wondering if manipulating the switch enough got the voltage bleed on the brown wire to go away.

Nice, good work

Did the cluster and accessories power off as expected with the ignition off even though the engine stayed running?

It's not really important, I've just seen multiple Ford Esacpes latley with failed ignitions. Some won't crank, one wouldn't stop running.

Customer was unable to get the engine to shutdown once it failed. If i played with the ignition switch enough or left it in the off position long enough eventually it would shut down. Later i just found reaching up and unplugging the IGN Sw worked to shut it down when in the off position.

All accesories and cluster stayed on as well when the ign was off and key was out. I think i noticed the heater blower didnt work when it acted up and ign was off.

Replaced ignition switch btw and it works

I've got 2016 with 60000 on it and it just started doing the same thing. My service advisor said its the bcm and their going to replace it. I sent this thread to him and he simply said it was the bcm and they were unwilling to check this. I don't want to pay for the wrong parts to be installed. I think I'm stuck on this one.

Unfortunately not many technicians like to understand why problems happen and assume the first thing that comes to mind.

If it's your vehicle, an ignition switch is cheaper to replace so you can tell them to install a new one. They can't say no. The odds of it being a BCM is very slim. You could also install it yourself, I'm sure there is a how to video some where.

Service advisors normally dont know anything other than what they are told by the technician who may also not know much.

With that said, I dont have the technical details about your issue including codes. It's hard to say what it is without a proper diagnosis.

Thanks for your reply and thanks for posting this. I'm gonna let them do the bcm and if it works then great. But if not I will make sure to speak to them about this thread and how similar my issue is to this and hopefully they correct it.

They may have correctly diagnosed the issue.
I try to give everyone the benefit of the doubt before they give me a reason not to trust them.
There is a lot of mistrust between the professionals in our industry and consumers who rely on us. That makes it easy for one shop (or tech) to jump on the mistrust band wagon and point fingers at another professional. I personally try not to engage in this behavior.
Honestly, if you brought your car to me with a problem and a lengthy post from a public car enthusiast forum, I would be unwilling to allow it to sway my diagnostic approach also.

I am curious to see if the bcm does the trick in your case. Keep us posted.

Well the dealership service department changed my bcm and it didn't fix the issues. The service advisor called and said they need to replace the ignition switch (wow I sent this thread to him and he just ignored it.). Should I be liable to pay for the bcm job. Of course they're saying the bcm was bad and thats where they needed to start. What are my options?

Sorry guys but I have a follow up question.
If my renegade has all the same symptoms ie. Engine not turning off, all the warning lights and codes. Wouldn't the first issue to address be the engine not turning off? Seems like simple logic but maybe I'm missing something. Could systems outside the ignition system cause the car to not turn off?

Yes and no .... clear as mud but let me clarify.... ignition switch, bcm, pcm, asd relay, ignition relay, and a few others that very with make and model can cause the car to run on / stay running though most of the time yes the ignition switch is the culprit. but that is why there are diagnostic specialist, flow charts, electrical diagrams . Because it is going to happen that a part craps the bed and sometime you get the dtc version of a magic eightball giving you an answer to your question. That's why if the codes given by the computer just don't make sense don't try to solve them to after what you know. So car is still running but have a research papers worth of codes toss out the codes and chase the real issue. Start with what you know .....key turns on car but wont shut off so check wiring at switch and see if anything changes or doesnt change with a test light or dvom using a electrical diagram and go from there. But realise that wires can short together in a harness so double check that it's not the case.

Hope that cleared that up some.

I spoke to the service advisor and he agreed to replace the ignition switch and reinstall the original bcm. And will let me know if the bcm is truly bad or not from there. I have a feeling no matter what their just gonna say the bcm is bad too and I needed both parts from the beginning.
As a customer I feel totally helpless to this situation and feel like its too easy for the shop to take advantage of me.

Stick to your guns. Too many consumers pay for wrong diagnosis.
If their diagnosis was BCM faulty and replacing it didn't fix the problem then its on them to make it right.

Hopefully they do they right thing!

I just found out I'm gonna have to wait 2 months for the ignition switch to come in. Its been back ordered to the middle of August.
Is it possible to put a toggle switch on the brown wire to shut off the continuous power flow to the bcm to at least temporarily fix this issue?

Rock Auto appear to have both OE and aftermarket available. OE looks to be a revised part number. That could be the back order problem if the dealership is trying to order the old number.

www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,2016,re...+starter+switch,4700

I had this same problem! My mechanic was unable to determine what was needed based on the codes he got. Second mechanic suggested taking my car to the dealer. I found your response via Google search, and went ahead and ordered an ignition switch and got it installed. I’m so glad to have found your post! The new switch has been in for about 600 miles, and the car is doing great. Thanks so much, I’m confident you saved me a large repair bill at the dealer.