94 Toyota Camry No start/Possible overheating issue

Hey guys, its been a while since I've posted here. Since then i've been in the satellite TV industry for some time and kind of need a refresher a bit as I havent worked on a car in quite some time. Also would like some incite as to what has recently happened

As I was driving home, The car began ticking louder than usual, as if the valves were making excessive tapping noises, then the car shut off and i pulled to the side of the highway. I popped the hood to notice that coolant was boiling in the reservoir. There was no indication that the car was overheating while i was driving. The gauge stayed below middle where it usually is so hopefully the car has not overheated. There are no visible leaks anywhere. Oddly enough though, the car now will not crank over, yet the starter will click once, and thats it. The battery still has a full 12+ volts and all of my accessories work so it may be safe to say the battery is not the issue at the present time. When I get time I plan to have the starter tested and I will probably get a cooling system pressure tester to see whats going on. So, out the blue, i seem to be dealing with two separate issues, but would like to know if these two could be related somehow. No crank, possible over heating.

Thoughts?

Put a socket on the crank bolt and see if the engine will move by hand

I was afraid someone would suggest that

Ouch! Oil dipstick bone dry time for a new car

Ah, sorry to hear sir. Seeing if the crank can turn by hand is a great suggestion.

You can also do a quick test of the starter/engine with your multimeter hooked up to the battery. Turn the key to crank and hold it there. If the meter stays above 10V, then the starter isn't drawing enough current, chase a starter issue. If it goes below 10V, let go of the key and make sure the engine isn't locked. :lol:

Engine does not turn by hand and starter works

I was holding out hope! :lol: Well, I suppose you could make this an engine swap project? How's the rest of the car?

Tyler wrote: Ah, sorry to hear sir. Seeing if the crank can turn by hand is a great suggestion.

You can also do a quick test of the starter/engine with your multimeter hooked up to the battery. Turn the key to crank and hold it there. If the meter stays above 10V, then the starter isn't drawing enough current, chase a starter issue. If it goes below 10V, let go of the key and make sure the engine isn't locked. :lol:

I have tried to teach a few techs that test. None of them trust it.lol Oh well, works for me

bruce.oliver wrote: I have tried to teach a few techs that test. None of them trust it.lol Oh well, works for me

THANK YOU. I love that test, but I get all kinds of crazy looks when I use it. :silly:

When you understand electricity, at least a little, it makes sense. But most techs don't understand electricity at all. One of the guys I work with has been burned by open circuit testing multiple times and I've explained it to him multiple times. But he still does it. He just doesn't get it

bruce.oliver wrote:

Tyler wrote: Ah, sorry to hear sir. Seeing if the crank can turn by hand is a great suggestion.

You can also do a quick test of the starter/engine with your multimeter hooked up to the battery. Turn the key to crank and hold it there. If the meter stays above 10V, then the starter isn't drawing enough current, chase a starter issue. If it goes below 10V, let go of the key and make sure the engine isn't locked. :lol:

I have tried to teach a few techs that test. None of them trust it.lol Oh well, works for me

It works better with a clamp ammeter than a voltmeter. Even an inductive CSB load tester. And is most accurate with a fully charged battery.

The Thermoquad Cowboy