Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

No crank

  • autojoe
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7 years 11 months ago #17028 by autojoe
No crank was created by autojoe
2007 Tahoe 5.3...no crank. Codes P0615... U0214. Power side switched. Has power control in crank position terminal 86. 85 hot all time which is control constant ground. G102 is ground for many components including fuel pump relay and they work. If apply ground to 85 will crank but not start. Test light connected to ground lights on 2 terminals and on one in crank position and one constant ground 87 to starter solenoid. Any ideas.

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7 years 11 months ago #17029 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
should also mention what i stumbled upon somehow is if I lock the truck with the remote while being in it for a minute and I put the key in, turn it to acc position it tries to briefly start

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7 years 11 months ago #17035 by arbez
Replied by arbez on topic No crank
www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=137290

Fuse 65 (40A) OK? Power to fuse while trying to crank?

At Relay

1 terminal constant power
1 terminal switched power - from ign switch
1 ground
1 to starter - goes through Fuse 65

What are you missing?

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7 years 11 months ago #17038 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
87 fuse is only hot when load contacts are closed. Relay is removed..... 2 hot 1 hot in crank position. 1 ground..... The constant ground is terminal 87 to starter solenoid. Terminal 85 control side constant ground is hot. Going to check for short to voltage.

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7 years 11 months ago #17044 by arbez
Replied by arbez on topic No crank
Assuming 85 should be a constant ground, it should never be powered. I believe you have answered your own question. No you just have to figure out why.

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7 years 11 months ago #17047 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
That is why I am here. No answers yet.

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7 years 11 months ago #17053 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
im confused here. you said you have 2 hot. the one hot in crank makes sense on the control side. then another hot at all times on the load side. i think you have an open ground on the control side tht goes to g102. if your using a test light connected to ground and it lights on that terminal its open. have youtried swapping the relay??

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7 years 11 months ago #17065 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
I have 2 hot at all times and 1 hot with key in crank position and 1 constant ground. Load side is good and control power is good in crank position..... I have power on control side constant ground..... G102.... There are many things that share this ground that all work...... Going to look for a short to voltage in wiring harness. If jump load side it will crank but not start...... Would the u code cause a no start?

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7 years 11 months ago #17066 by arbez
Replied by arbez on topic No crank
I'm more confused with each response.

I'm afraid to ask for more information... but, here goes. You say that you have power to 2 wires, with key on, but power on only 1 with key in start position. What wire loses power? What does the yellow/black (signal from ign switch) wire do?

If you have power in the relay ground (black wire), that's your issue. That wire goes straight to ground.

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  • cheryl hartkorn
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7 years 11 months ago #17068 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
start from scratch.... im lost. connect test light to battery Negative check for power should only have power in 1 terminal. next have someone turn the key you should have 1 more power feed. Next switch test light to battery positive check for a ground on the black wire. might even want to put a load on it with a headlight that is a bigger load than a regular test light. let us know

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7 years 11 months ago #17070 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
Power on 2 terminals key on..... Power on a separate terminal with key in crank position. Test light connected to positive test light lights on 1 terminal that goes to starter solenoid. The control side ground is hot at all times. Have swapped relays. If jump 2 load side terminals starter will crank.

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7 years 11 months ago #17071 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
that ground is bad. is there a way to leave the relay partially out. enough to wrap a piece of wire around the leg of the relay and run it to a redundant ground a.k.a. battery negative. Be CAREFUL your on the right pin. i bet it will start with a redundant ground

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7 years 11 months ago #17073 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
Thanks Cheryl..... Why does that ground have power on it with relay removed?

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7 years 11 months ago #17082 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
watch this. should clear it up

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7 years 11 months ago #17083 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
Been doing diagnostic for long time. Know how to do voltage drop testing. Didn't know about the u code with module to module communications relating to the no start. Thanks Cheryl. The ground is good beyond the box. Bad inside the box. Bad power distribution box.

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7 years 11 months ago #17084 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
is there a way to make a ground? instead of replacing the box? its hard to tell when your not there looking at the car in person.

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7 years 11 months ago #17085 by autojoe
Replied by autojoe on topic No crank
We used a redundant ground to move car. Problem in box itself. Thanks.

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7 years 11 months ago #17086 by cheryl hartkorn
Replied by cheryl hartkorn on topic No crank
cool. is that how you are going to leave it? bet the customer will be happy

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