A/C issues
Thanks for yalls time
Jeremy
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- Andy.MacFadyen
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With the AC off and the heater set to cold is the air coming out the air vents at close to ambient temperature ?---( thinking heater flap issue).
Also I have seen cars with the air sided of the condensor radiator choke anything that reduces the airflow through the condensor such as a the fan not coming on when the AC is will reduce the efficiency of the AC
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I've kinda done some research and just trying to verify but I'm not sure if this car has a evaporator temp sensor that could be faulty or where it's even located. It's hard to do checks and stuff because I'm hardly home because of my job, being an over the road truck driver.
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- Andy.MacFadyen
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If the pressures are okay then try a by-pass to supply 12v to the compressor clutch --- I would probably do this by by-passing at the relay (take care to jumper the correct terminnals). If this produces cold air suspect the pressure sensor .
" We're trying to plug a hole in the universe, what are you doing ?. "
(Walter Bishop Fringe TV show)
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Also should note when it's doing the weird problem the high side acts like it's going high and shutting down then comes back to normal, cause parts diagrams and from what I've researched I'm thinking it's the evaporator temp switch and it could be faulty and it's reading like it's freezing up, but I know it's not. I'm just trying to see if I'm going in the correct direction with this
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Andy.MacFadyen wrote: The day/night issue is making me think the ecu is seeing an over pressure and not enaging the compressor clutch.
I am thinking the same thing. Have you checked the pressure transducer.
I'm not sure if this car has a evaporator temp sensor that could be faulty or where it's even located.
Yes, it does.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer."
I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
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The first thing people do when their a/c doesn't seem to be cooling is go to the store and buy a can of refrigerant with sealer because it's what joeys uncles brother did and he said it fixed it. The sealant will clog the receiver/drier, coat the lines, sticky up the txv and then when the Desicant gets liberated gets stuck in the lines. So, if you didn't flush the lines some crap might have found its way in to your txv or just a bad txv. Glad you changed the condenser, you can't really flush the new ones out. Also, if you used the little cans and didn't purge between cans it's possible to get air in the system giving you high pressure with low cooling. Feel both lines at the firewall should be roughly the same temp.
Someday I'll figure this out
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Rockyroad wrote: Sounds like a bad txv. When the high side went high did the low side go low at roughly the same time? Why was the compressor changed?
The first thing people do when their a/c doesn't seem to be cooling is go to the store and buy a can of refrigerant with sealer because it's what joeys uncles brother did and he said it fixed it. The sealant will clog the receiver/drier, coat the lines, sticky up the txv and then when the Desicant gets liberated gets stuck in the lines. So, if you didn't flush the lines some crap might have found its way in to your txv or just a bad txv. Glad you changed the condenser, you can't really flush the new ones out. Also, if you used the little cans and didn't purge between cans it's possible to get air in the system giving you high pressure with low cooling. Feel both lines at the firewall should be roughly the same temp.
Alright there was never any sealant used in the AC system, the compressor was diagnosed failing by a shop, hence new compressor, condenser was not replaced because the receiver driver is built into it but can change the descant bags out through a plug, and the expansion valve was replaced as well, manifold gauges was purged every time can was swapped so no air in system.
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To note did this same thing after my fiance took it to have evacuated and recharged before I replaced the parts they told her was going bad
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Someday I'll figure this out
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Someday I'll figure this out
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Rockyroad wrote: You type faster, you posted some answers to my questions before I got my questions up.
Lol, I try to cover all my grounds when diagnosing and fixing something that I'm new to. I like to further my knowledge
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I guess you answered some of your own questions,as far as checking fans. Just some food for thought, your high side pressure going too high can really only be a couple things either a restriction,no air flow over the condensor or over charge and/or air in the system. Forget about the cycling switch on the evap, it shuts the compressor off when evap gets too cold. You get cold at night. What changes? Outside temp. Not having a fan on the condensor or any air flow from sitting still,it won't be able to transfer the heat out of the refrigerant . Get the hose and blast it with cool water, if you get cooling back with good pressures then look closer at the fan and don't forget about the relay. Sometimes fans start to shit out drawing to much amperage and kill the relay as well as melt the connector. It appears your high side cutout is working fine, that should be the switch on the line. If none of the fan stuff works we'll have to start looking at possible restrictions. If you have a point and shoot temp gun you can scan the system for an abrupt cold spot-possibly non engineered restriction. Just a thought, did you drain all the oil out of that new compressor and measur?
Someday I'll figure this out
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Ok, so your high side is spiking and shutting the compressor off. If you have it running max ac and the fans not on you have a restriction. If you can't find a cold spot on the condensor or don't feel a cold spot on the lines it's the txv. The lines at the fire wall should be ROUGHLY the same temp, discharge to compressor a little colder. Whenever your dispatcher decides it's ok for you to go home we can revisit this after you check out a few things.
Someday I'll figure this out
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Someday I'll figure this out
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Someday I'll figure this out
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