98 chevy suburban v8 5.7 liter hesitating stalling

Hi! I have a 98 chevy suburban with a v8 5.7 engine i took it to a detailers garage who cleaned the engine and engine bay with pressurized water, i cranked it and ran but start hesitating, revs went up and down ( down like trying to stall and up like trying to compensate something to keep it idling) after a few minutes it died! And not possible to run! Cranks ok but no start. I'm a DIY so have no advanced tools or pro scanner. I pulled out codes with an elm327 scanner and the only one was p1351 something related to the ignition circuit, i cleared out the code and it started again but hesitation still there. On my way to a garage for a repair it started misfiring randomly of course then a p0300 came in and also a code about the throttle position sensor making reference to a performance circuit. It accelerates but while accelerating revs go down like trying to stall again so i have to towed it back to the garage where they didn't get with the failure. It seems to me more like a current issue like if suddenly spark was not present. About 4 years ago it has a similar failure and a mechanic found out that ignition coil was arching and that causes the engine like stalling and idling. AS I DIY the only tools i have is a test light, a multimeter and that elm327 scanner. Before i took it to the garage i tried another ignition control module and another ignition coil that i had from past repairs but i do not know if those were good cause it does the same thing even with those spare parts. Any help please?

Check your crank sensor connection.

You might want to remove the cap and spray some wd-40 on/in the distributor and under the cap, as well. (WaterDisplacement-40).

Thanks pole71 I've already done that as well and it is good i checked for resistance with the ohmmeter, harness is tight and no water trace on any of the wires!

Ok let me try that! Would it be possible for the distributor cap to be broken inside if hot by getting the pressurized cold water?

Rod28 wrote: Ok let me try that! Would it be possible for the distributor cap to be broken inside if hot by getting the pressurized cold water?

I have taken cars to the car wash and high-pressure sprayed them many, many times. I always bring someone along to keep the rpm's up. (And I always take a can of wd-40 with me, just in case). I have never damaged a cap. Neither from pressure, nor temperature change. But, I suppose, that doesn't mean it is not possible.