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Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!

2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 Intermitting PO344 & PO433 *SEE FREEZE FRAMES*

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9 months 3 weeks ago - 9 months 2 weeks ago #68015 by jay123
I've taken this to a few shops and they can't find the issues after installing the new EGR and Cam Pos. Sensor. Please help! Thanks

 
Last edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by jay123.

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9 months 3 weeks ago - 9 months 3 weeks ago #68077 by jay123
Anbody? Changed the EGR & Cam sensor only to have the codes come back upon the first road test. car misses and barely accelerates with like a jolting and thunking...You know anything about this?
Last edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by jay123.

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9 months 3 weeks ago - 9 months 3 weeks ago #68079 by Monde
Have you checked the Cam pos sensor circuits: 5Vref , ground, and signal wires? You should have 5v on the Pink/Yellow wire, 5v on the DB/GY wire with sensor unplugged (Chrysler design) and a good ground. Try wiggling the wires to look for drop outs when checking them.

Assuming is never a good thing.
Last edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by Monde.

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9 months 2 weeks ago #68175 by jay123
that's what im doing tomorrow ive been busy thanks so much for the reply ill post back tomorrow

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9 months 2 weeks ago #68858 by jay123
5 volts on both wires using the ground in the middle of the connector for the cam sensor. moved around every area of the harness i could access with zero voltage drops.

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9 months 2 weeks ago - 9 months 2 weeks ago #68865 by Monde
If you had a scope, you could scope the sensor to see if you have a square wave with no glitches. Is the connector free of corrosion or secure? No bent pins?  Someone and I were chasing an intermittent issue that turned out to be from corrosion. Paul always cautions us on bad cam setting up crank sensor code and vice versa. Intermittent problems are hard to diagnose. When you get the code, does the van crank and not start?

Assuming is never a good thing.
Last edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by Monde.

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9 months 2 weeks ago #69650 by jay123
yes it runs just like crap as soon as I put it in drive and start slightly moving front after clearing the codes it will go basically into limp mode. However, if I clear the codes once every 2 or 3 times it will run perfect and only the EGR code remains. weirdest issue i have ever seen and been a backyard mech for 3 decades. What do you think I checked almost everything.

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9 months 2 weeks ago - 9 months 2 weeks ago #70226 by Monde
Clearing the codes will allow the vehicle to run fine because the pcm only put it in limp home mode when there are codes causing it to do so. Is your cam sensor an OEM sensor?
The egr code seems to be the reason for the limp mode since with no cam sensor code set, the van goes into limp mode. Don't you even have a pending cam code after resetting the code? We are just making sure that the cam code is not causing the limp mode.

Assuming is never a good thing.
Last edit: 9 months 2 weeks ago by Monde.
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9 months 2 weeks ago #70498 by jay123
yes there is a po344 and po403 with both also pending so 4 codes total. I unplugged the cam sensor today and the van wouldn't even start with a PO340 code...then i unplugged the cam sensor again and plugged it back in with the same codes popping up 344 & 403....i think the harness from the van might be bad?

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9 months 2 weeks ago #70502 by Monde
Unplugging the sensor with the key on will set a cam sensor code. Also, the crank needs the cam for synchronization. Without the cam sensor, the van won't start. You may not have a wiring problem, but a bad new sensor. A scope would give you a definite answer.
Have you checked the reluctor wheel? According to the service info, you need to check pin fitment, corrosion, bent pins and so on.

Assuming is never a good thing.
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9 months 2 weeks ago #71137 by jay123
I have an appointment with another shop to check everything with a scope monday i will check back in thanks for your input!
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9 months 1 week ago - 9 months 1 week ago #73579 by jay123
there is some little spacer thing on the end of the new sensor that was blocking the signal and that's exactly what it was aftermarket parts have different tolerances...the amazon cheapy one was wrong...the dorman was wrong .. however a standard brand cam sensor fixed it...$237 to find out but, who the **** knows about this stuff since it's not on the internet or in any dodge manuals...im assuming you had an issue like this before lol?
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Last edit: 9 months 1 week ago by jay123.

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9 months 1 week ago #73588 by Monde
The sensor had everything it needed to work, but didn't. Therefore, it had to be replaced. Glad that it is now fixed. Thank for the update, though.

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