Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
2017 Jaguar xf, 3.0l SC petrol v6. - infamous plastic coolant pipes ruined the original alternator. Dealer gets roughly $1200 for the part. I'm capable of replacing it so Hmmmm. Reman units are generally tested before being sold so hey save yourself $900. Well, be careful. Mine only worked sporadically over a week or so and the demons infested the car with lights on and off and flashing etc. Well after getting g an OEM at slightly more than re-man makes most cents. Then only thing I can figure is the re-man unit has a different version of LIN built into Regulator. I had tested the battery (11 month old agm w/ 850 CCA) and ruled that out( maybe not). Only after checking for parasitic drain w/ DC amp meter was I able to prove it was the alt. I have yet to figure how much difference there is between 2.0 and previous version 1.3 LIN. I've read a few instances where the 2.0 is not always backwards compatible. Wondering if you had any knowledge on this headache waiting to happen.
I remanufacture alternators, though I still have a lot to learn on the LIN systems, I find the biggest issue comes from the aftermarket LIN regulators which come from overseas. Most box store reman alternators are remanufactured by BBB which uses the cheapest quality parts to cut costs, and thus have issues like this.
In general, LIN alternators are OEM parts only in my book. I do remanufacture LIN alternators, especially on VW/Audi cars, but I use the OEM regulators and no aftermarket parts.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Noah, Generalee0527
