97 Honda Accord timing issue?

Hey guys, I have a 1997 Honda Accord with the 2.2 F22b2 non v-tech motor. I had a main bearing spin on me . Car has ran great no issues until this. I pulled the engine and rebuilt it. I have done many GM engines and find that the Honda's are very easy to rebuild. Anyways, after getting the engine back in today and starting it up, and it started within just a few seconds I had a hard time keeping it going. You really have to play with the throttle to get it stay running? After several times I now can start it after giving it gas and it will run great at about 1000 rpm. It will idle but at like 400-500 rpm and runs very rough. If you give it gas it sounds like it is not getting any gas and wants to die? Playing with the gas pedal you can get it to go up to 1000 rpm, When there it runs very smooth and sounds great from 1000 to 2000 rpm. it But once there at 2000 rpm it will then do the famous surge from 2000 to 1000 rpm and goes up and do

As I said the car ran great except the pinging sound of the spun bearing so I know it ran smooth before taking out the engine? I read that if there is air in the cooling system that they will run this way and have bleed the air out but still no change? I then cleaned very well the IACV and no change? Also cleaned the throttle body. I then double checked the timing marks and after pulling my hair out I decided to take the belt off and put it back on because I think it is in the timing? I say this because I saw the video of the timing being just one tooth off on a Honda that ScannerDanner did and that car sounds and acts just like mine almost 100%

I put belt back on and it ran much better! sooo ya I was off a tad BUT! still surges at 2000 rpm but if I really play with the pedal I can get it up 3500 rpm but starts surging again? It then dawned on me to reset my timing marks and look to see if the rotor was pointing to the number one cylinder.   Well it is not!  I have taken the belts back off, lined up marks again and the rotor at TDC is pointing past the number one wire? Someone told me that the computer sets the timing with a 15 degree advance, but even if that is true I would think that the timing mark on the rotor should still have to line up with the mark inside the distributor right?

 I have included photos to show what I mean. It seems to me that things are not right with the timing? Shouldn't the rotor be right on the number one wire? There are 2 dots to indicate where they are to be lined up? I am hoping someone can lead me in the right direction here as to what I'am not seeing or thinking about? Thanks!

Hey circletrack15! Thanks for including the pictures, much appreciated.

If you still have the upper timing cover off, have another look at the cam sprocket. Instead of using the yellow paint marks, look at the lines cut into the cog wheel on the outer face of the gear.



There should be two marks, 180 degrees out from each other. The marks should line up with the top of the cylinder head, when looking at the gear straight on. In other words, the marks should make a line that lines up exactly with the cylinder head. You may need a mirror to verify.

It's tough to tell from your picture, but it appears that the timing may still be one tooth advanced. Disregard the yellow marks, IMO. Dunno where those came from. :lol:

I took valve cover off and used a straight edge and yes I was one tooth off! I reset timing again and it runs a lot better! will idle at 700-800 rpm and can take it up over 3500 rpm BUT! I have to really play and or force the throttle to get it there? It surges really bad!. Loosened the bleeder and put more water in it but no air in water? So I think my timing is good now just this stupid surging. It does still stall when giving it gas still and will die unless I play with throttle??

Great to hear about the improvement!

Now that it's in mechanical time, how's the spark timing? I dunno if you played with it at all before fixing the timing belt, but now would be a good opportunity to check and verify it's at least halfway close to spec.

I don't recall off the top of my head how to put the ECM in SCS mode (so it'll revert back to base timing), so you'll have to do some research there. Usually involves jumpering a connector under the dash. After that, you can use a timing light on the crank and adjust spark timing as needed.