Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Hey guys I have a 2009 Acura tsx sedan 2.4 engine and I’ve been having this issue with long crank only when vehicle is warm does not do it upon cold starts. It takes a good 8 seconds before it starts then Christmas light appear on my dash along with a check engine with a crank dtc p0339. I’ve changed the crank sensor from Honda then performed relaerned procedures lasted about 2 days then went back to long crank , the hard part about diagnosing this is that its intermediate so I cannot duplicate while checking for fuel or spark. I’ve researched and found that an aftermarket starter, which my vehicle has will cause this. Is there any test I can perform to the starter before throwing a Honda starter at it. Like Paul says don’t be a parts changer 🥲 I don’t want to be that guy anymore.
How about the second crank? Does it still take a long time, or is it normal when the engine is warm? I've experienced a similar issue with my Toyota Vitz 1.0L speed density engine. After checking it with our new smoke machine, I found two small leaks: one in the PCV valve hose and one in the EGR. I suspect it's related to the EGR.
Interestingly, a customer came in a few days later with the same problem in his Daihatsu Mira 660cc speed density engine. He had already replaced the fuel pump assembly but the issue persisted. We performed a smoke test and found the same EGR leakissue. After fixing it, the customer confirmed that the problem was resolved.
We had another customer with the same issue and the same car, but there were no leaks. I even tried changing the EGR, but the problem persisted. The customer will revisit for further diagnosis.
I identified the issue by comparing the MAP readings with another vehicle of the same make and model. This car's MAP reading was around 45 kPa to 50 kPa, whereas it should be 35 kPa.