Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Car is an 89 e30 bmw m20 6 cylinder has aftermarket wolf V500 ecu, itb setup, sequential fuel, Bosch waste spark with separate 3 channel Bosch MS ignitor, 60-2 crank as per factory but has cam home signal for sequential runs using alpha-N
Did some work on brake system, didn’t really touch engine other than remove itb intake manifold and a vacuum line to the booster and now car cranks but no start after sitting for only a couple weeks. Recently there have not been any symptoms so no start is totally out of the blue.
Have obviously checked the stuff i messed with and all appears ok and isolated all the changes so I think it is coincidental. No obvious open/broken hoses causing huge vacuum leak or anything
Battery is good and cranks as per usual, did compression test with results as per expected 150-175psi all pots
Is definitely getting fuel as the plugs are wet and smell a lot of fuel after multiple no starts so injectors appear to be firing and assume means crank signal and cam signal are atleast functioning to some extebt. Fuel pump runs and primes ok and rail fuel pressure is as per spec 3bar
Logging the ECM/ECU during a cranking no start event picks up all sensors reading as per normal, appears to get crank signal ~150 to 175rpm which is normal as per other logs from before any issues and the 6 inj outputs and 3 ign outputs are shown as active.
The engine catches occasionally and once almost seemed to run but died so atleast some fuel and spark is occuring
Spark seems perhaps a little weak but is present on all cylinders and consistent across all. Test light on the coil positive is good and is conistent. Incandescent Test light on all 3 coil control wires at the coil plug does not flash/blink suggesting potential control issues thought if it sparks there must be control? so possibly a bad test or test light is not sensitive? EDIT: i added a 12V bulb into the test light instead of 24V and now i can see the flickering
Have some spares lying around that are known to be good that i tried, plugs, wires, coil, ignitor/module and no diffence in the slightest as expected.
Any tips for what to check next? i dont have a scope. i suspect a mixture, or ignition timing issue
this was solved. squirted oil in the cylinders with dry plugs and back to normal. i think when i cleaned the throttle bodies carby cleaner got into cylinder and washed the oil away
