1996 dodge ram 5.2 1500 automatic rwd crank no start

It has spark, coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires and fuel pump are new. It cranks but won’t start. This is a mechanics car, he did all the work I listed above at home. If was due for a tune up so he tuned it up, it drove but he said it wasn’t good, he described it as limp mode. He then checked fuel pressure and noticed KOEO it was 55psi but cranking it jumped over 100psi so he changed the pump and regulator as a whole, after that repair he checked pressures again and I did too, they were normal 50 to 55 psi koeo and KOEC. After hearing what he’s done I still need to check over a few things but he did mention that he changed the crank sponsor as well just before brining it to our shop. I have verified fuel pressure, spark at the coil and spark at the plug wires, I have not pulled the cap for inspection of the cap it’s self and rotor, I plan to do so today, I verified firing order as well (wires are as they should be in order on the cap). Other than that I check scan data for cam, crank and rpm, rpm signal is there, 150-220 rpm’s during crank and cam and crank counts up as I’m turning the engine over. Haven’t got out the lap scope as I’m not sure where to go with it? Oh, I did verify injection pulse as well, used a test light for this. So over all, crank no start, has spark, has fuel, inputs seem to be there as far as scan data is concerned, ignition parts are all new except distributor and cam sensor which is interchangeable on the distributor. Any help or direction tips or tricks would be helpful at this point, thanks in advance.. 

Seeing it was running,but not well. A restricted exhaust could "feel' like a limp-in mode. Pull an O2 or do a back pressure test.

+1 for checking exhaust back pressure.

A word of caution for Cranking no-start conditions: When cranking in an attempt to start the engine, the fuel injectors are spraying fuel into the cylinders. If the fuel does not get consumed by combustion, the spark plugs may become fuel-fouled by extended/repeated cranking and the cylinder walls may become "washed", reducing compression so much that combustion cannot take place, even though the original problem may have been corrected. A quick check of the spark plugs will let you know if you are flooding the cylinders.

What a crazy one this was. A little more back story is I half way know the customer. He is a tech and again all this work was done by him before ultimately giving up and brining it to me. Again fuel pressure while cranking WAS 100+ psi (his observation not mine) before he replaced the fuel pump and regulator.. this was after he did a complete tune up. I did a visual inspection, checked for spark which it was there but much more prominent at the coil than it was at the plug wires, did a pressure test at the fuel rail and it was in spec and again I already confirmed rpm/crank/cam sigs with scan data.. came back to the comments and read both comments, one about cylinder wash and the other doing a back pressure test for a clogged converter…. Both of which I decided I needed to tackle as well but first I couldn’t get the voices out of my head to pull the cap and rotor just to make sure there wasn’t anything weird with those. He is a tech, but I’ve never worked with him, just tips here and there. The tab on top of the rotor was bent and twisted, ultimately damaging the cap and spring loaded button the coil is attached to.. I was certain this was my fix because again even though I had spark I wasn’t sure if it was good or not. Changed both cap and rotor and still no start.. I checked to make sure my firing order was correct and it was… Pulled a plug wire off to make sure I had spark at the plugs and no spark… checked for spark at the coil and no spark at the coil which I know for sure I had before and this was a brand new coil the customer installed. it’s a two wire coil, powered by the asd relay and ground controlled by the pcm.. checked for power while cranking and it was there as was my control from pcm… changed the coil, he had his old one on the front seat and it worked just fine.. Now we have spark and fuel, but still no start.. I pulled the dip stick (should have done so sooner) and it was 5x higher than it should be.. very thin and smelled like fuel. Changed the oil, pulled the plugs and checked compression as now I’m concerned about cylinder wash (as mentioned) and luckily compression was good. Plugs were fouled so I cleaned them and put them back. Spark is there, compression is there and fuel is there.. The last thing I did was pulled the o2 sensor out and instead of putting a gauge on it at this point I just wanted to see if it would run and it did… Fired right up, runs great, he needs a converter… Thanks for the suggestions, this is a fix..

Side note: replacing the rotor and cap did not make the spark “look” any better at the wires…