No start or crank mystery

2015 Ford Transit Connect XLT Eco Boost 1.6 litre..

The battery died because seat warmer was left plugged in. 
Used 48 volt scooter battery to charge the 12v. The area by the fuse box under the dash and/or radio puffed smoke and upon examination many fuses were blown.  Before the car stopped cranking and starting the driver side window went down by itself and it wont go up. I also blew up the battery so i bought a new one after i got paid along with fuses.  The drivers side window still wont go up the car will not start or crank power and lights work. It is not a relay or fuse that I can tell as I conducted continuity tests.  My dad said something about a fusable link...

i was hoping someone could poiny me in right direction need car to get to work..

the radio and drivers side window does not work the car wont crank wont start but the passenger drivers side window does work..

please advise

sincerely,
Rachel 

Rachel, are you in the US, or overseas? Need to know for potential wiring differences between US market and others.

I see that you've already replaced some fuses, and tested others, but I'd still say a good first step is to start over at the battery and work your way down. Continuity is good, but what we really need is voltage testing. Start at the high current battery junction box and then move to the battery junction box:

 

We want to know which fuses have power on both sides (good), which fuses have power on one side (blown) and which fuses don't have power on either side (might be OK, might be a problem).

Hello and thank you for your reply. I am in the U.S.A.

All the fuses and relays are good the ones that got cooked I replaced.

The radio and drivers side window does not work or power on, no crank, no start but the lights come on the passenger side window works. I think the computer may be the problem. Where is the computer on this car? It is a 1.6 liter ecoboost ford transit connect 2015.

How do i test the computer is the computer the same as the PCM.

What about the ECM?

Please advise i thought i would have figured it out by now and i need to get to work. I am so upset...

Are you saying you hooked up 48v to the cars 12v system ???

Really can't see that ending well.

Do you have any comms with the ecu, or signs of life from it ?

U0100 No communication with ECM/PCM

B00A0 OCS subfault
U0028 Vehicle communication bus A

U0422 Invalid data received from RCM

All codes that came back..

Is there a fuse in the ecm? I read its located by driver side wheel. Im going to remove the wheel and check but what if all the computers got fried? Any advice is appreciated..

I repeat again.

So you hooked up 48v to the cars 12v system ? Crazy thing to do

Have you tested that the ecu itself has power ?

Really, there is a good chance you've killed lots of modules within the car, and this will not be an easy DIY fix without good wiring knowledge and ability to test modules.

I found the ECM and there is nothing that I can see that would indicate a problem.  If anyone has any diagrams of electrical wiring or any service manuals for this car please share.  If I only had a schematic.  If anyone knows how to test the ECM module and doesn't mind explaining it, I would appreciate it.  Even a link to a video would be very helpful. 

Thank you!

ECM and ECU are the same thing. And no, I am trying to figure out how to test that.  

They are not something you can easily DIY test.

If you have a scan tool, and you can get some information from the ecu, that would be considered a "test" though.

However as you say you have no ecu comms, and other modules reporting problems, that is a very bad sign
You need to test if the ecu has power....12v of course, absolutely not ever ever ever 48v.
If it has power and your scan tool still has no comms....it's very possible the ecu is dead, along with other modules in the car.

With key on, you could test at a few of the engine 3 wire sensors to see if you're getting a 5v ref supply at any of them. That would also give some indication if the ecu has any life in it at all.

For a schematic, get a subscription to alldatadiy. Another thought, have you checked your area for a mobile tech?

Testing

stevieturbo wrote:

I repeat again.

So you hooked up 48v to the cars 12v system ? Crazy thing to do

Have you tested that the ecu itself has power ?

Really, there is a good chance you've killed lots of modules within the car, and this will not be an easy DIY fix without good wiring knowledge and ability to test modules.
 

EXACTLY what thought on the first read through....