04 RAM 1500 SLT CREWCAB 4.7L 4X4 - DTC's from hell

This is my  nightmare :  Since starting the truck with the new (not re-man or rebuilt, NEW - 0 mi) 4.7L engine, Ive not had it runniing dtc free for more than a few days. I started the new engine on the end of Jan 2022, and am STILL trying to get it running right. quick short version of new parts ive insatlled

4.7L longblock, cmplete fuel sytem  - pump, lines injectors. EVERY engine sensor incl 8 o2 sensors, coils, plugs, exhaust inc cats, manifolds, EVAP - purge valve and solenoid, pvc and all connecting hoses. reman PCM, FCM, TIPM,   

 Far more if i get into the brakes, steering and suspension, but those are all set. My problem is the driveabillity, hasnt run right for more than 4 days at a time, which was 2 weeks ago, ran great after changing TPIM and FCM, done to replace motherboard known to fail in these models which resulted in trailer harness failure, intermittent lamp out with either side low beam turning off randomly. Wipers were on or off, only 1 spot on switch would actuate and make them work. Then, power steering pump went (again - for the 5th replacement, 1 was 2 mos ago then 10mos ago before that) and the same day the 4x4 system gave me some trouble disengaging. its a manual system, dont believe its at all related as no electronics involved. 

Quick note, up untill about a yr ago, i was the one doing all the work on the truck.  I use it as my materials and tooling truck as a builder. dings- dents and scratches im ok with , loads of toole, ladders, stone, lumber etc will do that and is expected, if that were a new truck id blow a gasket..   but i need it to run to make a living. if its down in my garage for 3 days or more..  i think you get the picture. i loose more than paying the dealer to do it. so, now theyve been doing the work.

Thats when all hell broke loose. Back to the dealer to replace steering pump. Picked it up and the codes returned w a vengeance. on the highway, trying to pass, complete lack of power and engine light pops on. shit. then it starts flashing. pull over, DTC for po300, po308, po172 and p0335. clear codes, i make it home. next day, po172, po175, po300. next day on the wey to dealership, po172, po131, po300, po308.  dealer diag - talked w tech, recommends new o2 and crank sensors before any further diag. ok, those have all been replaced, o2 sensors twice, but - new crank sensor - pull old to find a groove worn into it - aftermarket sensor too long. great. thought new could fix a host of those codes. 2 new o2 sensors, replaced both upstream. now still driving rough, skipping w no power, 8-10mpg, dtc now po300, po308, and the return of po155 which i had well over a yr ago which prompted the  replacing of all 4 o2 sensors.

   There is so much more my head is spinningh. now im repeating the same issues over again. the wiring harness was removed and repaired by another dealer ive lost confidence in and will never return to. so i question the reliabillity of the harness even though i gave them  $1,000 to do it. 
im also wondering if theres a fuell delivery issue, maybe the injectors? the pressure is a solid 58lbs, 55-60 is called for in dodge manual. injectors are new w new motr, got all 8 from mopar, same w coils, im running ngk plugs for the 4.7l.

can you see my frustration? im considering driving from my home state of CT to PA and lettingthe Great ScannerDanner use it in his teachings and pick this thing apart and find out wth is going on..   how can i set that up?? lol!

so im about ready to buy the 1 thing i havent yet - a stick of dynamite. or maybe some c4?  anyone have ideas? i dont have a nice new scanner, considered buying a venus or something similar, but seeing its only personal use its quite a cost for no return. but at this rate, i couldve bought 10 of em for the $$ ive dumped into this truck already..
ANY help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated


 

yes you need S D .. NEED to start check all wires for gound or shorts . ecm pin s for correct volt ref. and wiggle test to sensors . battary test and alt test. good luck ..

Watched a few videos, namely the o2 sensor part1 and 2 as to why chrysler sensors must be used and not aftermarket. Ordered a complete set from mopar w the exact part # dictated by dodge. This will be the 3rd set in 2 yrs, but im confident it will help and i can rule out o2 sensor issues.

I also checked many wires, found the trans pressure senor at the end of bank 2 02 wiring harness had touched exhaust and melted the protective tubing andpossibly the ins as well, so i cut and repaired. Prob not contributing, but could have become so in the future.
Pulled #8 coil and plug, the only cyl identified in dtc - that and a multiple cyl misfire. It was black and fouled, so i pulled the rest. AND - the studs holding the coils are also intake bolts, which 2 on bank 2 and 3 on bank 1 were so loose i couldnt remove coil nut without the stud backing out of manifold. Go figure. So i retorqued and will be starting it up in a coupe hrs. Ill post my findings when i have them

swapped cyl 8 coil w cyl 2, code moved with it. will replace coil tomorrow. live data still showing rough fuel trim #s, waiting for new o2 sensors to arrive before doing more there. does anyone know a manual way to reset the adaptive learning memory without a scan tool? its been running rich for so long id like to remove the neg trim from its memory and let it start fresh with the new coil, o2 sensors and re-torqued intake

is there a way to delete the adaptive memory in the pcm to start fresh with fuel trim measurements? I don't have a scanner w that capability, just an obdII reader, and at only $450 it certainly doesn't have the capabilities of a real scanner

Smitty041500 wrote:

is there a way to delete the adaptive memory in the pcm to start fresh with fuel trim measurements?

 

You can try disconnecting the battery cables and touching them together for a few seconds.



Have you checked for a restricted exhaust? Pull an upstream O2 sensor and install a pressure gauge. With the engine running at 2000-3000 RPM's, exhaust back-pressure should only be about 1.5 psi, or less.  If you have 3 psi, or more, you have an exhaust restriction. If you don't have a pressure gauge, try driving with the front O2 sensors removed. If power is restored, you have a restricted exhaust.
 

Smitty041500 wrote:

im considering driving from my home state of CT to PA and lettingthe Great ScannerDanner use it in his teachings and pick this thing apart and find out wth is going on..   how can i set that up?? lol!






 

ScannerDanner's Shop Directory is a list and map of shops that follow ScannerDanner's teachings. There is one located in CT: 

High Line Auto Service

336 Chapel Road South
Windsor, CT 06074
(860) 254-5350

That is awesome, thanks Chad. I will def check them out, Windsor is near the nothern border with Mass, im on the shore, but CT is not very big, estimate 55-60mi. A little closer than PA... lol!