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Back story: This 1999 Ford Ranger is on its second engine. This past summer the old bed was removed and the frame repaired. Also, converting it to a flatbed. While the frame was off, I found why I was getting an EVAP code, a wire was broke at the vent solenoid to the vapor canister. Anyway, and sorry in advance to ScannerDanner, I decided to replace the fuel pump sending unit, pressure sensor and the vapor canister along with its' solenoid. Seemed like a fairly low cost way of avoiding future problems while I had the bed off. Anyway, while I was wiring a new pigtail for the vapor canister vent solenoid, I forgot to disconnect the battery. When I started the truck up and read the codes I got two pages worth of stuff. Holy moly. After looking them over I soon realized I probably had a blown fuse. Replaced the fuse and Viola, most of the codes went away. Except one, Code P0340.
The truck had been running a little rough before hand so I figured that maybe that code had already been there. I did not have a 'check engine' light. Maybe Ford Ranger doesn't even have that ability. So, I was about to change the sensor and cam synchronizer but after doing a little research, and seeing some of Dan's videos I thought better of it. In reality, what really slowed me down was how nearly impossible it was going to be to get to the sensor and/or pull the synchronizer. It looked at minimum I'd have to remove stuff down to the fuel rail and perhaps even the intake manifold. A bit daunting for one stupid sensor. How dumb can those Ford people be, geez?
So, did a little testing and here is where I'm at. Found the wiring diagram and PCM pin layout. This truck has a three pronged coupling (Hall effect). No idea whether this vehicle is pull down or pull up. DarkBlue/Orange wire goes to pin 85: cam position sensor. Black/white goes to ground. Light blue/Orange is shared with all three oxygen sensors and the tranny shift solenoids. Oh, and also with the fuel pump relay.
Battery voltage (been on charger all day): 12.17 volts (seems a little low for a battery being charged all day)
Readings with key on, engine off:
Lt Blu/Org: 12.04 volts
Dk Blu/Org: 2.04 to 2.02 volts
Blk/Wht: 12.17 (red lead to pos. terminal at battery, negative to pigtail)
Pulled PCM coupling and probed pin hole 85 with long chubby sewing needle and tested continuity and ohms. Got good continuity back to the pigtail DrkBlu/Org wire at the CPS. Ohmed at 0.00.
I'm not certain where to go from here. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Chuck
Last edit: 7 months 2 days ago by CER. Reason: Some misspelling
