Frustration Setting In

85 Dodge D150 with a 79 318 installed with single ballast resister and single pick up coil.

I have been working on this truck for nearly two years now. In February 2022 I got it running enough to get it registered. Then before the end of of the month, it quit running and I had to tow it home. I didn't get a mile from my house when it quit and it still isn't running.

Last night I watched ScannerDanner's video "No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor] . I have to say, I would like my truck to be wired like his truck.

Anyway, I have replaced every single component of my ignition system, except the wiring harness for the ECU and the key tumbler on the ignition. I even put in a brand new distributor, since the old one has a slightly bent shaft. By the time I watched Dan's video I had already done most of the testing that he showed, except for the test light on the ECU. I went to O'Reilly today and bought a non LED test light and I did that test. The ECU is grounded. However, there is no spark in start mode, but it's getting approximately 5.2V in run mode. Since I replaced everything except for the ECU wiring harness, I don't get why it's not running. Also, I know the timing chain ain't broke because by spinning the crank manually the rotor on the distributor turns.

However, could it have jumped time? I don't know. My friend, who is a retired certified auto-technician says no it couldn't have jumped time because the timing marks line up at TDC (exhaust). However, the rotor does not point toward cylinder # 1. It points to cylinder # 3. So, if it didn't jump time, how can that be? Also, after putting in the new distributor, we were trying to adjust it as I was turning it over, and my friend said it too was wobbling around in the hole. Could there be something inside the motor that's bent like the driveshaft for the oil pump or something? I'm fixing, in the next day or so, getting under my truck to pull off the oil pan and check the oil pump and pump shaft.

I'd like to get Dan's book on Engine Performance Diagnostics, but even the digital version is out of my pocket book's reach at the moment. I've been going round and round for months with a few guys at DodgeForum.com, and they been trying their best to help me figure it out, but to no avail. So, If I could get some real help on my truck's situation I would would be more than grateful. Especially when I can hear it fire up and run again.

Sincerely,

LvlyMoParLady

Hello everyone,

I need help with the following issue (Quote from beginning post):

"However, could it have jumped time? I don't know. My friend, who is a retired certified auto-technician says no it couldn't have jumped time because the timing marks line up at TDC (exhaust). However, the rotor does not point toward cylinder # 1. It points to cylinder # 3. So, if it didn't jump time, how can that be? Also, after putting in the new distributor, we were trying to adjust it as I was turning it over, and my friend said it too was wobbling around in the hole. Could there be something inside the motor that's bent like the driveshaft for the oil pump or something? I'm fixing, in the next day or so, getting under my truck to pull off the oil pan and check the oil pump and pump shaft."

If anyone has any suggestions, please help. Also, see beginning post for further information on everything I have done to my truck so far.

LvlyMoParLady

Did this motor ever get turned over with the distributor removed? The intermediate shaft can rise up off the cam gear and settle back in, in the wrong position of course, and I read the thread, no oil up top? You could pull the plugs to make it easier on the battery and starter and crank it for short bursts. Also it is the easiest time to check timing chain slop with the plugs out, breaker bar on balancer bolt and spin both directions, see how much slop is there before the cam moves, it's easy to feel

Hello, LvlyMoParLady here. I am posting a huge update for my 85 Dodge D150 with a 79 318 installed with single ballast resister and single pick up coil. I have to say now, that my Frustration is beyond frustrating.

In addition to everything I did in my original post, I have replaced every single component of my starting system, including the wiring. But I have gone even deeper than this. I have also replaced all the gaskets, put in a new timing chain, installed a new harmonic balancer and I valve-lapped the valves. I know none of what I stated in the previous sentence has anything to do with getting no spark to the spark plugs, but I thought I would say it anyway.

I just don't know what else to do with this. I have to be missing something. I'm completely baffled. Even my ex-husband, a mechanic of nearly 40 years, is baffled as well. We followed all of the troubleshooting advice on ScannerDanner's YouTube video, located at the following link: No Spark Troubleshooting [Mopar Electronic Ignition with Ballast Resistor]

If anyone has any suggestions, please share.

LvlyMoParLady

Are you still getting 5.2 volts in start mode?

ontheriver wrote:

Are you still getting 5.2 volts in start mode?

I'm getting zero volts at the coil.

Hello ScannerDanner and community,

Before I ask my question, let me clarify what I have done to my Dodge. I have replaced the starter relay, the starter, the ignition switch, the ballast resistor, the coil, the distributor + pickup coil, and the ECU + wiring harness. The wiring harness is from Summit Racing (link to harness is below) and the wiring is different from the original wiring on my truck. The blue wire replaced the pink wire. I will provide the instructions from Summit, but installation is pretty straightforward.

After viewing Danner’s video on his orange 78 W150, for the 10th time, and studying the flow chart; I think I understand now what could be the problem. However, since I just put the brand-new starter relay on, I’m guessing that the rewiring job I did might be the issue because I am getting nothing at the coil. What could be the problem with getting 0vlts at the coil?

Link to Wiring Harness

Installation Instructions

ontheriver wrote:

Did this motor ever get turned over with the distributor removed?

Well, I don't know if the motor ever was turned over with the distributor out, but I wouldn't rule this out considering who owned it before I did. I wouldn't put it past one of the previous owners to do a numb-nut move like that. However, I don't think so, because the truck was running when I drove it home. I also drove it several times before it quit running about 2 years ago. At first, the problem was--I'm going to say--intermittent. The several times I did drive it, I ended up having to tow it home each time. Then the last time I towed it home, it just wouldn't start again.

The first thing I replaced was the voltage regulator because it was melting down the firewall. Then I had to replace the ECU because it too was melting down the firewall. So, these were the first two parts I replaced. Then, one by one, I began replacing other parts until I had a completely new ignition/starting system. So, I have replaced everything from the steering column to under the hood, including wiring, and I'm still not getting any results. I just don't understand why I'm getting no fire. Neither does my ex-husband and friend, who is a mechanic of 40+ years.

What was the resolve on rotor pointing to #3, not #1?

ontheriver wrote:

What was the resolve on rotor pointing to #3, not #1?

What do you mean by the resolve pointing to #3? Do you mean which way was the rotor pointing when I had it a TDC? Well, to put it bluntly, that's going to be irrelevant because I've had the distributor out because I put in a new one and I made sure the rotor was pointing in the right direction at TDC.

LvlyMoParLady wrote:

ontheriver wrote:

What was the resolve on rotor pointing to #3, not #1?

What do you mean by the resolve pointing to #3? Do you mean which way was the rotor pointing when I had it at TDC? Well, to put it bluntly, that's going to be irrelevant because I've had the distributor out as I put in a new one and I made sure the rotor was pointing in the right direction at TDC.

Yes, the resolve was pointing to #3 before I pulled the distributor and installed a new one. However, I didn't install the new distributor until after I removed the intake manifold, exhaust manifolds, and heads to clean up the engine a bit and put on all new gaskets. While I was at it, I also installed a new timing chain kit, and I made sure the distributor to cam gear was pointing in the correct direction at TDC.