Throttle Body Wire Harness Internal Open

During testing of my throttle body and tracking down TPS codes, I found my actual wire connector has an internal open. I have to press the back of the harness very hard to the point my fingers cramp to get an accurate reading. Is the proper fix to open the connector and try to repair the pins or to splice in a new connector? I am just a DIYer, but want to make sure I do it right. The wires coming from the main harness too are not very long, so I would have to open up a good amount of it to make a decent splice. It's a 2010 Nissan Altima 2.5L.

coffeysm wrote:

Is the proper fix to open the connector and try to repair the pins or to splice in a new connector? I am just a DIYer, but want to make sure I do it right.

The 'proper fix' is wide open to opinion. :silly: But, for me, the preferred fix would be a whole replacement connector. Fewer struggles with depinning the connector, less hassle with finding replacement terminal ends.

Trouble is finding the right one. Nissan doesn't really believe in replacement connectors, so you'll have to find one aftermarket. I also don't really care for the insulated butt connectors that often come with replacement pigtails. Much prefer to use bare butt connectors and sealing heat shrink. Makes for a cleaner repair.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072V27QN4/

www.amazon.com/dp/B084GDLSCK/

Thanks.

I did have trouble finding a replacement "throttle body" connecter. But, it does look exactly the same as my MAF connector, so I ordered a replacement MAF connector and it does fit on the TB. I have the butt connectors that have the built-in solder and heat shrink that you use a heat gun on. Do you think those are sufficient for this area of the engine bay?

Another dumb question would you use Tesa tape or Scotch 88 electrical tape? I have both and was leaning towards the Tesa, since it's in the engine bay.

I use the solder/heat shrink connectors every where, that should be a fine repair. I stagger the splices so that when you tape them up there's not a big bulge of splices, then cover the whole repair black corrugated wire loom covering.
Hopefully that is the fix. Scanner Danner has been teaching us for years that many times when flexing a connector on a component, that if it exposes (or in your case corrects) a problem, then it is most often an internal problem with the part, not the connector.
Let us know how it works out for you.

Thanks.

It was in fact the connector, I cut off a decent section of wiring and spliced the new harness in and all my TPS DTCs went away immediately. I almost did throw a new throttle body in. I was mislead by my scanner originally it showed both signal wires showing over 5V when unplugged. When I measured them with my meter though only one was at 5v and the other was at 0. Also, when I was moving the butterfly valve manually my scan tool did not reflect that, but when I did it manually with some probes it did.

But, now it appears during this troubleshooting it did not like having 13 year old wires moved around. I am getting P0103 for my IAT when unplugged/plugged in and when plugged along with a P113. I feel somewhat defeated now, lol.