HONDA Odyssey parasitic draw

Hi guys

I have Honda odyssey 2010 with parasitic draw. What I found is when I open and close the right sliding door the modules network still taking. Although I clean the lautch and make sure the switches are fine. When I open the door and kept open the network is off.

How did you check to make sure the switches are fine? Did you read what the switch status in the bcm? If one is going from ajar to closed

Yes I check all the switches with Bcm and the one for door ajar.

Yes I check all the switches with Bcm and the one for door ajar.

Did any of them read incorrectly?

Thank you for your reply

Yes all of them work correctly

How much is the draw, exactly?

Have you narrowed the draw to any specific fuse(s)?

Thank you for your reply

The current is around 0.574A

The fuse is #7 under dash

Batdrest wrote:

Thank you for your reply

The current is around 0.574A

The fuse is #7 under dash

Perfect. I think you're definitely on the right track with the power sliding doors.

No offense, but are you absolutely positive all the power sliding door switches are working? :huh: There's six switches in each sliding door. Each switch needs to change state while opening and closing the door. The ratchet switches in particular are the most failure prone.

Do both doors power slide as normal? Or does one only operate manually? If in doubt, pursue the inoperative door first.

Tyler wrote:

Batdrest wrote:

Thank you for your reply

The current is around 0.574A

The fuse is #7 under dash

Perfect. I think you're definitely on the right track with the power sliding doors.

No offense, but are you absolutely positive all the power sliding door switches are working? :huh: There's six switches in each sliding door. Each switch needs to change state while opening and closing the door. The ratchet switches in particular are the most failure prone.

Do both doors power slide as normal? Or does one only operate manually? If in doubt, pursue the inoperative door first.

Yes you are right the ratchet switch when the door is closed its on and when I open the door it just became off for one second and than back to on. However, the other door when it open the ratchet switch is always off.
Thank for your help. Any suggestions to fix this?

Batdrest wrote:

Yes you are right the ratchet switch when the door is closed its on and when I open the door it just became off for one second and than back to on. However, the other door when it open the ratchet switch is always off.

Which door is showing the stuck off ratchet switch? Left or right?

Thank for your help. Any suggestions to fix this?

You've got some options. Best option is to replace the latch assembly on the side with the stuck ratchet switch:

www.partsgeek.com/b9kg726-honda-odyssey-...-latch-assembly.html

Second option is to remove the latch assembly, find the ratchet switch and get the pivot moving. It's likely stuck and not moving freely. I grabbed this shot from Google Images:



Get the pivot moving smoothly, reinstall the latch and recheck for ratchet switch operation.

If the owner can't afford repairs, or just doesn't care if the power sliding doors work, then the last option is to remove the power feed to the problem sliding door. I've found the best option is at the Rear MICU in the right rear D-pillar:



Find D2 or G2 (depending on which door is acting up), and cut the white/red wire in a repairable location, or depin the connector and tape up the loose terminal. This leaves the owner the option of repairing the door issue later if they choose.

I've done this to several customer vehicles, and always had success in getting rid of the draw. However, if you choose the last option, be sure to:

1.) Inform the owner that the door in question won't power slide. The door will still open manually. Live with it or fix it properly.
2.) Recheck for the draw afterwards. If the draw remains, keep diagnosing.

Tyler wrote:

[ If the draw remains, keep diagnosing.

Sweet, love that one.

juergen.scholl wrote:

Sweet, love that one.

I ordered one of those APT-100 pressure transducers off AliExpress. :woohoo:

Not sure wether this is the right place to not kidnap the original thread but in response to Tyler:

I compared the APT100 directly with the WPS 500 - teeing them together checking in-cylinder pressure - and the measured outputs are really, really close. The APT will benefit from a stiffer hose than the origina one though.

juergen.scholl wrote:

Not sure wether this is the right place to not kidnap the original thread but in response to Tyler:

Sorry, just got excited. :woohoo: I'll start a new thread.

Tyler wrote:

Batdrest wrote:

Yes you are right the ratchet switch when the door is closed its on and when I open the door it just became off for one second and than back to on. However, the other door when it open the ratchet switch is always off.

Which door is showing the stuck off ratchet switch? Left or right?

Thank for your help. Any suggestions to fix this?

You've got some options. Best option is to replace the latch assembly on the side with the stuck ratchet switch:

www.partsgeek.com/b9kg726-honda-odyssey-...-latch-assembly.html

Second option is to remove the latch assembly, find the ratchet switch and get the pivot moving. It's likely stuck and not moving freely. I grabbed this shot from Google Images:

Get the pivot moving smoothly, reinstall the latch and recheck for ratchet switch operation.

If the owner can't afford repairs, or just doesn't care if the power sliding doors work, then the last option is to remove the power feed to the problem sliding door. I've found the best option is at the Rear MICU in the right rear D-pillar:

Find D2 or G2 (depending on which door is acting up), and cut the white/red wire in a repairable location, or depin the connector and tape up the loose terminal. This leaves the owner the option of repairing the door issue later if they choose.

I've done this to several customer vehicles, and always had success in getting rid of the draw. However, if you choose the last option, be sure to:

1.) Inform the owner that the door in question won't power slide. The door will still open manually. Live with it or fix it properly.
2.) Recheck for the draw afterwards. If the draw remains, keep diagnosing.

Thank you very much for the helpful information.

I just reply now after I cut the wire and keep the car more than 2 weeks without turn it on and yes it start & the battery still charge.

Thank you Tyler you are really EXPERT

Batdrest wrote:

I just reply now after I cut the wire and keep the car more than 2 weeks without turn it on and yes it start & the battery still charge.

Thank you Tyler you are really EXPERT

Nope, just had my ass kicked by these several times. :silly: Glad to hear it's staying charged!