[FIXED!] '99 Lincoln Continental 4.6 Intermittent NO START!

Intermittent no start is frustrating. I get fuel pressure at the fuel rails and I get spark when I check every time. Then it starts fine but never before the second try. COP's are good when I check. Turn the key first time, cranks, no start. Second time fires right up. Sometimes, rarely, takes five or six try's. Can't get it to 'no start' all the time so I can figure this thing out & I don't want to get stranded somewhere away from home. Argh!
Is there an inexpensive OBD II scanner I can purchase where I can find some trouble codes?

Hey Scottsgretch! There's a huge selection of scanners out there, depending on features and budget. Years ago, I bought an Actron scanner from a local parts store, and it's always worked well for me. Launch also has it's Creader series, which have a ton of features for the money.

If those are too much, then there's also several Bluetooth ELM327 devices out there that allow your smartphone to work as a scanner. I've used this BAFX device with my Android phone, and it works well for reading codes and observing data.

I see that you noted you've been getting fuel pressure at the rails, was this tested with a gauge set? To me, your symptoms suggest a fuel pressure problem, and the repeated cycles of the key are working to get the fuel pressure built up again. Would it be possible to leave the gauge set attached to the rail, so you can easily observe pressure during that first cranking attempt?

Thanks Tyler! I will do just what you suggest. I've got an OTC pressure test gauge I'll hook up again and see what happens on first start attempt today. I'll look at the Creader series OBD too and make a decision on what to get. I am familiar with the Actrons and just want to get the best I can afford. I'll keep you posted! Thanks again, Scott.

Gotcha. Let us know what you think of the scanner you end up getting. Not everyone can justify a Snap-On or OTC scanner, so it's great to know which of the more affordable scanners are best.

As above particular watch how fast the fuel pressure builds at switch on and falls off with key off.
If you go for a handheld code reader, Launch a good choice but Autel have good low cost tools. Look at ones that graph live data.
Paul's brother James Danner recently did a youtube review of some of the budget end Launch hand held units.

If you want to use a bluetooth dongle with Android the quality of the very cheap ones is pretty variable, for an iPhone you need a WiFi dongle rather than bluetooth.
You can also of course connect by USB dongle to a laptop.

OBDlink make a very good selection of high quality dongles probably the best on the market but they won't break bank.

For software on android I have tried a few and prefer OBD Car Doctor Pro to the usual choice of Ian Hawkin's Torque as it is faster, gives better graphing and connects easier. However as your primary interest is Ford group take at look at FORscan

Ok, first start od car this morning showed the following on my OTC tester.
Turn key on, let sit in 'on' position for a few minutes, slowly goes to 10-15psi. No where near 30-35.
First crank, psi builds to 25psi. Second crank builds to about 35psi & starts.
Turn key off, psi quickly falls to 10-15psi again. Starts again as soon as it hits the 30psi mark.
Fuel pump or pump relay? Could it be as simple as fuel filter??

If the return out of fuel pressure regulator is a rubber hose then clamp it off and see what happens to the pressure when you turn the ignitions on let the pressure build then turn the key off again. If the pressure shoots up and only drops slowly you have a bad regulator. But if the pressure still builds slowly but to the same or higher pressure and still falls relatively quickly suspect the pump.

Thanks so much Andy! It appears the 4.6 continental has a fuel sensor up by the fuel rails instead of a fuel regulator. Would the regulator be an in-tank piece actually built into the pump in the tank? Or maybe in-line somewhere else? I'll search some more. Scott

Scott wrote: Thanks so much Andy! It appears the 4.6 continental has a fuel sensor up by the fuel rails instead of a fuel regulator. Would the regulator be an in-tank piece actually built into the pump in the tank? Or maybe in-line somewhere else? I'll search some more. Scott

Good eye noticing the fuel rail pressure sensor. That means this is an Electronic Returnless design, right around when Ford started introducing it on some models. Paul has several videos covering this system, if you're interested in it's operation:





The short answer is that there is no mechanical regulator on this system. The pressure is regulated by the Fuel Pump Driver Module, which pulse width modulates the fuel pump to get the pressure it wants. There IS a check valve in the fuel pump itself, just like most pumps, to control pressure bleed off.

Your testing with the pressure gauge tells me we're on the right track. Two things concern me - how slowly the pressure built up, AND how the pressure didn't hold with the key off. Just to be clear: If you have the engine running with the pressure at 30-40 PSI, and you shut the key off, the pressure IMMEDIATELY plummets to 15 PSI or less? That would tend to suggest a check valve problem.

For our info, are there any other driveability problems? Low power, hesitation, stalling?

I'm thinking Ford didn't have such a great idea with this 'new' system, huh. I decided to replay my steps in the morning starting with a cold morning start again and RECORD everything again. The I'll get back to you again.
I want to make sure I'm accurate in my memory of how fast the fuel pressure builds up & how fast it drops & I'll record all my figures. My days can be long since I'm retired so this will keep me busy! Ha! Thanks & talk soon! Scott

Scott wrote: I'm thinking Ford didn't have such a great idea with this 'new' system, huh. I decided to replay my steps in the morning starting with a cold morning start again and RECORD everything again. The I'll get back to you again.
I want to make sure I'm accurate in my memory of how fast the fuel pressure builds up & how fast it drops & I'll record all my figures. My days can be long since I'm retired so this will keep me busy! Ha! Thanks & talk soon! Scott

:lol: This electronic returnless system has been causing problems for years, and they still use it to this day. Another member has been having his own headaches dealing with a similar system on an E-450 .

I'm sorry if I interrogated you a little too hard about the pressure readings, didn't mean to question your memory! :blush:

NOT AT ALL! This is actually fun if it turns out OK......and I believe it will do just that! No apologies necessary, please!
So, anyway, I Started with a cold start again at 7:00 this morning. Hooked up OTC tester. Here's how it went:
Key ON - jumps to 30psi & drops immediately to 0 within all within 2 seconds. Key stayed ON for about 45-60 seconds.
Key OFF - psi stays at 0.
Key ON - jumps to 30psi & immediately drops to 0 again.
First CRANK - psi goes to about 33psi & starts first try. About 6-7 seconds to start.
RUNNING - psi stays at a fluttering 30-33psi.
Key OFF - psi immediately drops to 0.
Key ON - jumps to 30 & drops immediately to 0.
CRANK again - starts right up after about 4 seconds.
RUNNING - psi stays at same 30-33psi
Key OFF - psi drops immediately to 0.
Car runs fine all the time. Has always started IMMEDIATELY even with 117k miles. Never a delay until now.
Since it only has the fuel sensor & not fuel regulator, are we back to a possible pump replacement since it bleeds down so fast? I just filled the tank too......Ugh!
RESTART -

Scott wrote: Since it only has the fuel sensor & not fuel regulator, are we back to a possible pump replacement since it bleeds down so fast? I just filled the tank too......Ugh!

Yeah, unfortunately, that's where we're at. :lol: I really am sorry, I was still holding out hope for a module problem, but your pressure readings can't be explained that way.

If the pump is functioning properly, you should be able to turn the key on, see a fuel pressure prime, and it shouldn't drop off after the prime is done. Really, you should be able to turn the key off and expect the pressure to hold afterwards.

Do you think it's better to buy a OEM ford pump or an aftermarket one? Not sure which aftermarket are good ones.

Definitely Motorcraft if you can afford it. rockauto.com shows a significant price difference over options like Airtex or Delphi, but I think it's worth it if you intend to keep this vehicle. Aftermarket pumps are very hit and miss these days, IMO.

If not Motorcraft, then I'd suggest Bosch as an aftermarket choice.

Motorcraft it is! Thanks Tyler.
My next decision is for a scanner so I'll look at James' clip on them I'll reread the suggestions from Andy in an earlier message too. Would you have final thoughts on a not-real-expensive scan tool? Thanks again!

Scott wrote: Motorcraft it is! Thanks Tyler.
My next decision is for a scanner so I'll look at James' clip on them I'll reread the suggestions from Andy in an earlier message too. Would you have final thoughts on a not-real-expensive scan tool? Thanks again!

No problem! Please let us know how the pump replacement goes.

A smartphone Bluetooth adapter is a great option if you have an Android or iPhone. Andy is right on about OBD Car Doctor Pro - great software, much better than Torque, IMO. The adapter and App cost less than $50 together.

Tyler, sorry for the delay. I wound up purchasing a NEW 'Made in America' BOSCH #67146 fuel pump. Car starts every time now! Unbelievable price too! Thanks for all your help from the forum! Scott

No worries, thanks for the update! Great to hear this one is back to starting the way it should.

How'd the pump replacement go? Not sure if there's a pump access cover on this one or not.