2021 volvo s60 fuel pump voltage scoping

i want to scope the voltage of the fuel pump the way that Paul has done in chapter 15 of Engine Diagnostics. The fuse is F13 below: fuel pump schematic on google photos

i have a fuse buddy extension installed with a hantek CC65 amp clamp on it, so i got that figured out (but do i do 1mv/10mA or 1mv/100mA?)

i have also have a fuse tap that i'm using to get access to the conductor. there isn't a good way to secure the capacitance compensated and attenuated probe to the fuse tap, so i've got an alligator clamp wire biting the fuse tap end on one side and biting a female banana to bnc adaptor to plug into my hantek IDSO1070A scope.

so my very dumb question is, do i alligator clip the black or the red side of the banana adaptor? do i use a 20:1 attenuator? do i use another alligator wire to connect the other side of the banana adaptor to chassis ground? is this going to get me a signal, or just battery voltage based on the schematic above?

i should mention that that c2:76 terminal goes not directly to the fuel pump, but to a fuel pump control module that powers the fuel pump.

the more i look at the schematic, the more i'm convinced that there is nothing i can voltage test at the fuse panel that will be any different from just connecting the probe to battery positive and the ground to ground. if anyone can confirm or deny this, that would be helpful, but i guess i'm just gonna scope the current and call it a day until i drop the gas tank (no rear seat access on these cars).

OK, did the amp scope. Please comment if you think my analysis is correct:

fpcm fuse amp probe

Unlike chapter 15 of Engine Diagnostics, there is no plateau in the amperage. It just peaks at what I'm going to call 28 amps. it was on 1mV/100mA mode on my hantek cc65, and if i'm reading the axes right there is 100mV per vertical grid line, which translates to 100x100=10,000mA=10A per grid line. On Page 248 of Eng Diag, it looks like the fuel pump amp probe peaks at 1.6V=1600mV=16A (100mV/1A). So, a 75% swing in current draw between fuel pumps and/or fuel pump control modules across different makes/models seems plausible to me. At least, it's not enough for me to impeach the current peak.

On the other hand, my current drops below zero and stabilizes around zero in about a fifth of a second, whereas the book's current holds steady at around 3A for approximately 1 second.

So my conclusion from this is that either my fuel pump died from me trying to pump the gas out of the tank using the priming function, or that the fuel pump control module is for some reason shutting off the pump before it really begins pumping. Either way, it's not spinning for the 1 second or so priming period. Which is weird because there is the sound of something that sounds like a fuel pump priming for almost 3 seconds. But not the fuel pump? What could that be?

It's a pretty high peak for me to think that the control module isn't at least trying to start the pump. Maybe it is then sensing that there is no load on it and then cutting it off? It's a saddle shaped tank with the pump in one side and the other side is pulled with like a siphon tube that arches into the other saddle bag. I'm wondering if the guys that installed the tank messed something up and this tube has a leak?

These results definitely didn't inform me whether or not i need to order a new fuel pump yet.

For context, i scoped the pump to see why it stopped pumping during my efforts to empty the tank from the fuel rail. The gas was old and needed to be dumped before I fire the car up. The car was parked for a while when it developed a misfire after the fuel tank was replaced with a junkyard part.

I should also mention that I got the numbers flipped around typing the title. Its a 2012, not a 2021.