Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
I'm Having A Problem With No Spark. I Have Power At Both Wires To The Coil. I've Replaced Coil & Ignition Control Module With No Luck. I Pulled The ECM And When I Opened It Up All 3 Capacitors Were Leaking Bad So I Replaced With New One. I've Self Tested The CEL Through The Connecter Under The Hood On Drivers Side Fender. Got 4 Codes 118;121;337;542 Don't Think Any Of These Have Anything To Do With Spark. I Marked Distributor And Rotor Location Pulled Distributor Hopped In The Truck Turned The Key On. Got Out Of The Truck I Grabbed a Set Of Jumper Cables And Hooked Up ONLY The Ground Clamp To The Distributors Metal Casing And The Other Negative Clamp To Negative Battery Terminal. Once I Did That I Spun The Shaft Of The Distributor And I Hear Injectors Shooting And 2 Relay Clicks And A Very Low Pitch "POP". I Need Some Help Badly I've Just Replaced A Exhaust Valve That Was Chipped. My Dad Was Helping Me With This Truck But I Think He Has Had Enough Of Me And Ms Rosey As Now He Doesn't Even Answer Any Question I Ask Him About The Truck Now.... I Know Alot But Just Don't Know What To Apply My Knowledge To. I Need Some Guidance.
Also The Low Pitch "POP" Seems To Be Coming From Under The Throttle Body It's Barely Audible If I Was In The Truck Turning Key To Start I Wouldn't Hear This Noise At All But Instead I'm Jumping Starter Solenoid On Passenger Fender Under Hood.
I appreciate your response. I am now having difficulties with starting. Im getting spark!!! YAY FINALLY!! It's took me about 2 months to find my spark problem. I'm getting fuel to the rail but my pump won't kick on unless. I run 12V+ jumper wire from fuel pump plug in to the fuel pump and hook the ground side straight to the frame of truck. Then when I turn on key it'll do the 3 Second prime and shut off controlled by ECM.
In better words I took the fuel pump plug and a volt meter turned on the key and found the 2 wires that were the highest volt readings for the 3 Second cycle. Once I located those two wires I took record of voltage reading which was highest around 11.8V but it's Only That high For About 0.5 Seocnds then it rapidly decreases to 6V and stays at that. So what I did was grabbed 2 regular pieces of wire stripped both cut ends on both wires. Shoved one wire into the 12V+ and hooked to positive side of pump and also shoved the other wire into - side and hooked to pump. Turned on key and got nothing so I ruled the fuel pump Connecter out. But then I got a idea to run the - Terminal straight to the battery. Turned on the key and WABAM pump kicks on for 3 Second cylce
I would inspect the ground side, starting at the battery, does this truck have the ground "tree" on the radiator support? Inspect, clean, a slight pull on wire connectors for looseness of connections, and the battery jumper cables is a quick test, ground on battery, other end on frame or engine, just to see where the ground is missing
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