Test question

SniperDan wrote: Here's one...

On a 12v solenoid that is duty cycled and ground side switched, a digital multimeter is used to measure control side voltage. The voltage reading on this circuit read 3 volts. Assuming this solenoid is duty cycled continuously, what is the duty cycle of this solenoid?

A. 75%
B. 33.33%
C. 50%
D. 25%

I'll take A!

SniperDan wrote: I don't know about you Dylan, but I'm having way to much fun with this lol.

:lol: Yeah! Everyone feel free to post test questions!

Try this one most old hands will have seen this one many times.

Part (1)
Car comes in from local bodyshop, their customer complains that since repairs to the front right of the car the head lamp bulbs on the left side have failled repeatedly. The right headlamp was not worked on by bodyshop and was working immediately after the repair. The car is over ten years old but is low mileage.
The vehicle also got a new alternator fitted as a result of the front end damage, the battery is also new and is larger heavier duty type than would normally be fitted with that engine option.
You have only a basic DVOM, a test light and normal hand tools.

Which of the following is not on your list of suspects.


(A) Sub-standard non-OEM approved bulbs.
(B ) Oversized battery
(C ) The alternator.
(D ) Bad ground.
(E ) Battery terminnal.
(F ) Alternator connections and wiring.

A B C E F

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Ash03 wrote: A B C E F

^^^^^^^^^

Tyler wrote:

Ash03 wrote: A B C E F

^^^^^^^^^

:huh: Tell us why Ash03 ...

Tyler wrote:

SniperDan wrote: Here's one...

On a 12v solenoid that is duty cycled and ground side switched, a digital multimeter is used to measure control side voltage. The voltage reading on this circuit read 3 volts. Assuming this solenoid is duty cycled continuously, what is the duty cycle of this solenoid?

A. 75%
B. 33.33%
C. 50%
D. 25%

I'll take A!

I'll take E. Scratching my head :blink:

Uhm ok.. 1 question though.. does the bulb blow out immediately when fitted or after some time, a week/month or so?

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The bulb blows after 30 minutes or so driving.

Dylan wrote:

Tyler wrote:

SniperDan wrote: Here's one...

On a 12v solenoid that is duty cycled and ground side switched, a digital multimeter is used to measure control side voltage. The voltage reading on this circuit read 3 volts. Assuming this solenoid is duty cycled continuously, what is the duty cycle of this solenoid?

A. 75%
B. 33.33%
C. 50%
D. 25%

I'll take A!

I'll take E. Scratching my head :blink:

All right, get ready have a laugh at Noah!
I suck at math, it's embarrassing. If the control side voltage is 3 volts, to me, that means it's on more than it's off, so the duty cycle is at least more than 50%.
That only leaves A.

Andy.MacFadyen wrote: Try this one most old hands will have seen this one many times.

Part (1)
Car comes in from local bodyshop, their customer complains that since repairs to the front right of the car the head lamp bulbs on the left side have failled repeatedly. The right headlamp was not worked on by bodyshop and was working immediately after the repair. The car is over ten years old but is low mileage.
The vehicle also got a new alternator fitted as a result of the front end damage, the battery is also new and is larger heavier duty type than would normally be fitted with that engine option.
You have only a basic DVOM, a test light and normal hand tools.

Which of the following is not on your list of suspects.


(A) Sub-standard non-OEM approved bulbs.
(B ) Oversized battery
(C ) The alternator.
(D ) Bad ground.
(E ) Battery terminnal.
(F ) Alternator connections and wiring.

The one choice we can eliminate immediately is ( B ) The size of the battery is not the cause.

The car has a self-contained alternator complete with regulator, no PCM control.

Over coffee you get a few sugestions from other Techs

Tech (1) says he had a problem with a car blowing bulbs and it was due to an arcing connection at the rear of the alternator causing voltage spikes and you should check the alternator and battery connections.
Tech (2) says it is the alternator regulator
Tech (3) who works on diesel trucks suggests checking the headlamp is mounted firmly and not vibrating
Tech (4) says he is certain it is a bad local ground for that light unit.
Tech (5) says check all of the above concentrating on tests that are easy and quick and you get a definitive pass or fail answer for, check the local ground for the head light unit last.

Which advice would you choose ? and why ?

Who is giving the best advice ?

Noah is correct. 75% duty cycle!

Just to let you guys know, I dont have "old hands" and I am still in the very early stages of learning wiring..

A - An aftermarket non oem bulb may not last as long as oem but it would work, the only difference would be the brand of bulb and maybe the wattage..
B - What does the "big" battery have to do with just ONE bulb blowing out?
C - (I assume the bulb also blows out with koeo) KOEO the alternator is not in use so thats ruled out. And again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
E - Again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
F - As far as I know, the alternator is just used for charging, so bad wiring at the alt will most likely result in a dead battery and again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
(Not listed in the options, but, a shorted wire would blow the fuse)

I say D - a bad ground.. because it only affects 1 of the headlamps. Doesnt a bad ground generate voltage? If so, the bad ground could be over powering the bulb, hence blowing it out..?

Checking alternator connections, alternator charge, headlamp mount is barely takes 5min, doing it shows good practice.


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SniperDan wrote: Noah is correct. 75% duty cycle!

Nice

And what's the math for this puzzle?

ASE Question of the Month

This month in Motor Age, we focus on troubleshooting tips and techniques related to “loss of communications” concerns on a vehicle’s network(s). Let’s see how much you know about the CAN bus!

Which of the following statements is NOT correct?

CAN stands for Controller Area Network

CAN networks can be laid out in three distinct configurations: the ring, the star and the bus.

CAN A is the term used to reference a high speed CAN network

CAN B is a medium-speed CAN network that can operate from 33 kbps to 250 kbps.

This is no challenge for the pro's here!

Ash03 wrote: Just to let you guys know, I dont have "old hands" and I am still in the very early stages of learning wiring..

A - An aftermarket non oem bulb may not last as long as oem but it would work, the only difference would be the brand of bulb and maybe the wattage..
B - What does the "big" battery have to do with just ONE bulb blowing out?
C - (I assume the bulb also blows out with koeo) KOEO the alternator is not in use so thats ruled out. And again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
E - Again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
F - As far as I know, the alternator is just used for charging, so bad wiring at the alt will most likely result in a dead battery and again - has nothing to do with ONE bulb blowing.
(Not listed in the options, but, a shorted wire would blow the fuse)

I say D - a bad ground.. because it only affects 1 of the headlamps. Doesnt a bad ground generate voltage? If so, the bad ground could be over powering the bulb, hence blowing it out..?

Checking alternator connections, alternator charge, headlamp mount is barely takes 5min, doing it shows good practice.


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A bad local ground is by far the most likely cause but because you don't want any come back it isn't the first thing you should check. All the other tests are quick and easy and give definite pass or fail result so it is worth spending more ten minutes going through them all then clean/repair the head light ground.

Come on guys, don't fall asleep! :lol:

Another one from Motor Age:

This month’s question is taken from our G1 study guide. The G1 test is a great way for new techs to get accustomed to the ASE testing format.

A customer is complaining of insufficient air flow through the vents when the A/C is turned on. Technician A says that the problem could be a clogged cabin air filter. Technician B says that the problem could be a short at the blower motor. Who is correct?

Technician A

Technician B

Both A and B

Neither A nor B

Neither A nor B

And please correct me if Im wrong..

By the way, how does one answer these questions? As a technician, questions must be asked and testing must be done.

I got a feeling that I will be asked to explain so I rather just type it in 1 post lol..

Since its an ASE test, I guess one has to be technical...?

A customer is complaining of "insufficient" air flow through the vents "when the A/C is turned on"

The heater should also be tested, if there is sufficient air flow then theres clearly no problems with the filter or blower

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Dylan wrote: ASE Question of the Month

This month in Motor Age, we focus on troubleshooting tips and techniques related to “loss of communications” concerns on a vehicle’s network(s). Let’s see how much you know about the CAN bus!

Which of the following statements is NOT correct?

CAN stands for Controller Area Network

CAN networks can be laid out in three distinct configurations: the ring, the star and the bus.

CAN A is the term used to reference a high speed CAN network

CAN B is a medium-speed CAN network that can operate from 33 kbps to 250 kbps.

This is no challenge for the pro's here!

I'll take 'CAN A is the term used to reference a high speed CAN network'. (I actually missed this post last week, my bad. :oops: )

Another one from Motor Age:

This month’s question is taken from our G1 study guide. The G1 test is a great way for new techs to get accustomed to the ASE testing format.

A customer is complaining of insufficient air flow through the vents when the A/C is turned on. Technician A says that the problem could be a clogged cabin air filter. Technician B says that the problem could be a short at the blower motor. Who is correct?

Technician A

Technician B

Both A and B

Neither A nor B

Tech A for me. A clogged filter, sure, but a short? You're either burning the blower motor connector or popping the fuse. Either way, zero airflow.

Dylan wrote: Come on guys, don't fall asleep! :lol:

Another one from Motor Age:

This month’s question is taken from our G1 study guide. The G1 test is a great way for new techs to get accustomed to the ASE testing format.

A customer is complaining of insufficient air flow through the vents when the A/C is turned on. Technician A says that the problem could be a clogged cabin air filter. Technician B says that the problem could be a short at the blower motor. Who is correct?

Technician A

Technician B

Both A and B

Neither A nor B

I will go for Tech A,.

Tech B's answer would be NO air flow.

Dylan wrote: Come on guys, don't fall asleep! :lol:

Another one from Motor Age:

This month’s question is taken from our G1 study guide. The G1 test is a great way for new techs to get accustomed to the ASE testing format.

A customer is complaining of insufficient air flow through the vents when the A/C is turned on. Technician A says that the problem could be a clogged cabin air filter. Technician B says that the problem could be a short at the blower motor. Who is correct?

Technician A

Technician B

Both A and B

Neither A nor B

Neither A nor B is the most likely but you would really need more information from the customer for diagnosis. Based on the limmited information from the complaint top of my list would be a problem with the heater flap controls.

On a modern car the AC the air would normally automatically be on 90% + recirculation a choked cabin filter would have almost zero effect on flow but the customer may habitually override the recirculation.
A fan problem is unlikely to strike only when the AC is on but ............