Scope recommendation for specific use case

Hi All,

I reviewed the threads on scopes/scanners and would like some input before buying. I'm an amateur who only works on three cars-1991 Honda CRX 1992 Acura NSX, and a 1985 Porsche 911. My only computer is an Apple laptop, but i have Windows XP on a virtual machine that seems to work pretty well.

The Honda ECU is OBD-0, the Acura is OBD-1, and the Porsche is an early Bosch product. I can't imagine any of the scanners helping much on these cars, so I think I'm looking for a 2 channel scope.

The Hantek 1008 and the picoscope 2204A are both in my budget. Two questions-

1. Are the automotive settings on the Hantek worthwhile for the vehicles I'll be working on?

2. Will the Pico be usable even though this is the non-automotive version?

Any other advice, or scope suggestions are welcome!

You will get on fine without pre-sets just a matter of playing around with the scope settings not difficult and something you can quickly get used to.
The Hantek 1008c comes bundled with an ignition probe suitable for your vehicles however the software although some of the bugs have been sorted out is a pita to use. The automotive pre-sets in the Hantek software aren't great and the hardware is of very variable quality. As for working within a virtual XP machine I can't say as I don't know the Apple OS although from experience of using VitualBox it would probably be down how well the USB ports on the virtual Windows system . functioned.

Although it lacks a 2nd channel (which is useful on distributor ignitions) in your case I am wondering if an AES uScope might be a good fit.

The essential differences between lab scope and automotive scopes apart from pre-sets is input protection, if you use a lab scope on ignition coils or fuel injector an attenuator is really required to prevent any risk of the scope getting zapped by voltage spike. Attenuators come x10 x20, x100 values but the x20 setting is usually found only on automotive scopes --- this no big deal.

Thanks Andy.

I'd like to bite on the uScope, but the 911 and the CRX both have distributors so I'd like the 2nd channel. NSX is coil over plug.

If a picoscope 2204 is a higher quality unit, what sort of leads and attenuators will I need, and does the brand matter? Here is what I'm thinking now...

1. Capacitive ignition lead for secondary ignition
2. DC current clamp
3. Coil over plug probe
4. Attenuators-10x and 100x
5. Back probes for testing at harnesses

It's been said before on these forums that any scope, even a cheap one, is better than no scope. What is more important is your willingness to learn how to use it and practice, practice, practice. My first scope was a Hantek 1008, which took much practice and experimentation to learn. But the effort is worth it, since the knowledge also applies to any scope. I now have a Pico 4425, which I believe is worth every penny. Whatever scope you choose, you are going to need probes, leads, etc. which far exceed the cost of a cheap scope, but not to worry, even if you upgrade your scope, you can still use your probes and accessories.

Thanks Hash.

Any feedback on the list of probes/attenuators that I'm thinking about? Specific brand suggestions are welcome as well.

I have bought some of the Hantek cables the HT igniton clamp, attenuators, adapters and some leads.
These items are fine and inexpensive.
The amp clamps from Hantek are not as accurate but i ended up buying one because the other ones I have had banana plugs and with bnc adapters made too much noise on the signal. I bought it because I needed a cleaner signal not so much for depending on measurements.