Is this a good test?

I figured I'd post this here since my question is about the test procedure and not so much about diagnosing the problem with this car.

One of the mechanics at my shop told me Friday about a problem he was having with the shops Modis.
The car is a 2001 Honda Accord EX ULEV-tec automatic. He said that after replacing the knock sensor for a trouble code, he keeps getting a nagging check engine light and a code for "Fuel Air Metering", which he tells me he can only view with the hand held code reader.
When you check for codes in enhanced mode, it comes up "No Codes To Display" :S :S :S
I checked the enhanced mode to verify, and sure enough, no codes. The engine lamp is clearly lit..
So I jumped over to global OBD and pulled a current code "P1167: Manufacturer Specific"
Geez, thanks...

So back to the enhanced side of the tool to see if the troubleshooter has any information relating to the code... Big surprise, nothing.

At that point I had to get back to my own work, but got around to checking the code definition tonight:
P1167: A/F Sensor 1 Heater Malfunction.
Alright easy enough. I'll check some pin outs and give him a plan of attack for the morning.
When I come upon this jewel of wisdom for checking the heater circuit integrity...


So Honda say's you should disconnect the pcm and jump both wires for the o2 heater to ground. Then, check for continuity to ground on the o2 sensor connector.
If there is continuity to ground, the next step is to replace the o2 sensor.
So my question is, is this a BS test? How does this test rule out a short to ground?
Unless there is a specific "o2 heater control circuit short to ground" trouble code. A short on the power side would most likely result in a blown fuse, which you probably (hopefully) would have found before ohming the circuit.

What a strange test. :blink: It IS a BS test, but... why? :lol: Maybe they wanted to save you the trouble of running your multimeter test leads all over the place? Probably not. :silly:

Also, I've had that same problem with Honda before. CEL is glowing, but the OE side insists everything is A-OK. Go to global, and I find a P3400 Cylinder Deactivation System Bank 1. Y U DO DIS HONDA.

Wahahaha :lol: Advanced diagnostics right :blink: 2 jumper wires to ground at PCM connector and then ohm the circuit at A/F connector to ground. Gets better every day...

What can I add ?! --- but the Honda dealers can charge a fat fee for it.