Strong bias voltage?
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dhodges wrote: I was testing at the start relay which is attached to the side of the fuse box in the car on the drivers side. The key was on and it was about 9 volts on the black / blue wire to the pcm with the relay unplugged(at the connector for the relay), and 5ish volts with the relay plugged in (back probed). It would light both test lights, not full bright, but more than I expected.
You weren't kidding. That IS a strong bias voltage. :lol: I can't say I've ever seen a bias voltage that strong. Others will hopefully chime in.
Did the PCM set trouble codes related to the starter relay? With a bias like that, I'd expect the PCM to notice.
Not that it's related to the theory of the bias voltage at work, but what did you find wrong with the starting system? Bad starter?
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dhodges wrote: I was testing at the start relay which is attached to the side of the fuse box in the car on the drivers side. The key was on and it was about 9 volts on the black / blue wire to the pcm with the relay unplugged(at the connector for the relay), and 5ish volts with the relay plugged in (back probed). It would light both test lights, not full bright, but more than I expected.
That's strange. For the relay to pull that voltage down it'd need a path to ground, which seems unlikely. Does your wiring diagram show the relay coil power feed as hot in run or just hot in start?
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dhodges wrote: I have just begun to play with this car and was doing some preliminary testing. This came to me form another shop that dropped the motor cradle to put head gaskets in and now it won't crank. I am told there is no comm. with the pcm also (have not checked yet) so I have no idea how the pcm views this lol.
Gotcha.
I'm gonna throw a WAG out there and say that the behavior you're seeing on the relay control circuit is another symptom of... Whatever is wrong with the PCM. :silly: Smells like a missing/resistive ground.
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