Diagnosing Calc % Load issue

Hello everyone,

I have an issue on my 04 accord, J30a4 v6 motor that I just upgraded with slightly bigger injectors, 310 vs 275 stock, 80mm T/B and manifold.

Car runs fantastic, very happy with the power gain, but I developed a starting issue, with longer crank times and investigating I find my Calc load at 99.2% and is stuck there, all the time.

Its dumping fuel while cranking and is my problem. The cause tho is a mystery.

I did have one related code P0175 bank 2 rich. I did adjusted the valves, which per Honda could be an issue if the were not adjusted properly, but I would stake my rep' they are correct, and the ECM dont know that with the engine off...

Clearing codes and running preliminary testing, looking for vac leaks etc have proven non factors.

MAP/ECT/IAT all seem in spec.

Only sensor question would be the Relative TPS with throttle closed is 17.3%,  WOT is 79.2%
TPS is 7.5% closed and 92.5% at WOT.

T/B is drive by wire and the above results were after a T/B reset. They were worse before, but the reset needed to be done anyway.

Even not running, KOEO its pegged at 99.2% very odd.

The ECU was reflashed just after the upgrades by my tranny guy.  
I had my MAYA automatic trans rebuilt immediately after the upgrades (and it was previously planned) and installed w/a slight stall converter and they were redoing shift parameters, tho no changes to the issue were noted.

The below items were present on my scan tool:
MODULE# $09
Cal ID 37805-RCA-A730
Cal ID 37805-RCA-A040

Any diag tips or suggestions would be most appreciated.

What exactly did the "reflash" entail?
I'm sure you know that you cannot just install larger injectors and expect to reap rewards, so I'm curious to know how/if your transmission specialist was able to tune the stock ECU for the extra fuel being fed into the engine.

The flash would be the same as going to the dealer and getting the latest software update for my vehicle.
If I can figure out how when I get home from work I should be able to share the page from the tranny shop about the reflashing.
Yes I understand the bigger injectors and not having a tune, though I dont feel that is the issue here at all, the parts upgraded have been done many times on these vehicles, specificaly these parts, with varying results, but nothing was reported such as this. I posted the issue on the Accord v6 forums to see what suggestions I may get.

It would be very easy, (and free), install the original injectors. Then you can compare data with the correct and incorrect injectors and know exactly how the PCM is responding to the extra fuel.
The J series is one of my all time favorite engine families, so I'm interested to see where you end up with your build, but I'm willing to put down a $20 spot that says without Hondata or HP Tuners those injectors are doing more harm than good.

i spent 1/2 hour typing in sa as reply only to have the site erase it all, i will reply latre with updated info

That's frustrating. You get auto signed out without knowing it and lose the whole thing...
If I spend a long replying or making a post, I usually copy the whole thing now before I hit submit.

Yes very,
After spending most of the day and here on the east coast it's like a sauna putting all my inner fender wells in and all that happy stuff that I took out for the transmission issue I was trying to clean up a spot on my intake manifold is getting rubbed from the hood hitting it cuz it's too you know tall to fit under without a little help there and ended up just making a complete mess of the intake manifold paint wise all over the place so I am verbally typing this in on my phone as I stand in my works restroom for the mechanics soaking wet as I've got done removing all the paint and spraying it with a pressure washer and everything I'm dripping wet and so some manifold so I'm going home it's going to be a couple days till I can get another post going or get the car up and running and do some testing and make a post appreciate your patience brother

Could you post a screenshot of your scan data during the rich condition? Copy/pasting the values would work, too.

Mostly interested in the Loop status, trim, TP%, Calc. Load and MAP. My normal reference on stock engines is: Correctly adjusted valves and no vacuum leaks, the MAP should be at least under 1.0V. .9V would be better.

Wanting to get back to basics I pulled my intake checked the torque on all the lower runners, hold plugs on bank 2 they all look great and reassemble the top half of the motor being very careful to make sure there's no vacuum leaks whatsoever I will be starting it up later this afternoon and having my scan tool on there so I should be able to get screenshots to submit later this evening

Finally got the car out and drove it. Have no vacuum leaks, (tested with brake clean then with propane) Drove it with the vacuum gauge temporarily installed and it had excellent vacuum, it was not low or fluctuating, indicative of a vacuum leak or mis adjusted valve, and lastly the power brakes work really good, so I have a high confidence I can eliminate vacuum leaks or an improperly adjusted valve.

So I put my scanner on and drove it, had it with me all day but I had difficulties in recording more than two PID's at a time with out the scan tool complaining so I just put it in View Live Data and checked two PID's at a time. Was in close loop unless otherwise specified.
Couple quick notes:
Before I started the car I performed a T/B re-learn, and there is no check engine lite, it stayed off and I drove it alot today. The Idle is back to pre modification normal RPM, it was lower before I pulled the intake to strip and repaint it over the July 4th holiday.

First two is MAP and TPS. My scanner did not read volts but inches, (inHG). KOEO was 29", I started it up dropped to 18" and it fluctuated with the throttle opening, but I have no voltage reading.
TPS was 15% at idle, the WOT reading varied slightly between 89% to 95%.

Next was STFT Bank one, LTFT bank one. The short trim was -14 at Idle going to -19. Long term was -14 and mostly stayed near -14.
Bank Two STFT at Idle was -23 and varied from -14 to -25, LTFT was -14 to -19.

Bank One
STFT: -14 to -19
LTFT: -14 (-12 to -15)
Bank Two
STFT: -23 to -25
LTFT: -14 to -19

From these readings I see the ECM trying to pull fuel out, especially bank two, but like I said no CEL.

Last is Calc- is at 98.5%, slightly lower than than the 99.2% reading but it stayed there and never moved off 98.5%
(Whether in closed loop, open loop, engine running or off but key on)

The long crank times remain, the warmer it got the worse it was, but the performance was there even in the heat of the afternoon, no drive ability complaints.
When I picked up the car at the trans shop I filled the tank and its now at 1/4 and I drove 225 miles, works out roughly to 18.367MPG, not great but its been hammered on alot of those miles.

So, the only thing thats off that I cannot resolve is the Calc number. The trims do indicate it is on the rich side, especially bank two, yet its not enough to set a code.
I am pretty sure if I can figure out whats causing it to read so high, even with engine off and fix it the long crank times will disappear.

Doing research I found that for either short/long trims anything over 10% is getting on the extreme side, I'm assuming the large load being seen is adding trim, but for now I am continuing diag, taking the car to work, going to check o2 and recheck the results from last time out

Take no offence, as none is intended, but because you are here asking for professional advice, I would like to say that the very first thing I would do if this car landed in my bay would be to revert back to the correct injectors.
I don't think it's a coincidence that you have oversized injectors and an overly rich mixture, especially if this only happened after the injectors were installed. Again, not taking shots at you, but it is the most logical conclusion.

Yes sir no offense taken.
Today when I drove the car is the first time since I put this new parts on that I have seen the load come off of the 99% tile and when I started it was at approx 43%, and The short-term trims had come down as low as zero though they went back up they at least were that much lower surprisingly.
At lunch when I came out it did have codes even though the check engine light had not come on so when I cleared the codes it also cleared all the stuff on the fuel trims and when I started it back up it had to relearn so it started at like -19 and it slowly came down but that's with this load being less than the 99 another thing I noticed was that my map sensor is saying I only have like eight or nine inches of vacuum while the vacuum gates I have on it at an idler saying much more than that so I am really beginning to think I have a bad map sensor you know 8 lb is pretty low for having an engine idling unless it had a huge cam in it or something.
I am looking at like $70 bucks for another map sensor and once I buy it I'm going to own it so any thoughts would be helpful.
I think if the map sensor was reading more closely what is probably the actual manifold pressure then I would think that the load would come down and the fuel delivery would come down I'd rather try that and spend the 70 bucks and take it all back apart to put the original injectors in because the map sensor and the throttle body was also changed out too and I don't know if it's been damaged at all you know in transit I didn't know anything about what condition the parts were in when I got them especially with that the manifold itself you know it's a piece of magnesium so I mean there's no cracks in it but I'm not sure about that map sensor, The box that it was in was crunched to be nice about it on that side where the map sensor was located I want to open up the box that's the side that was crunched is where the map sensor was

I was speaking into the phone and it typed out what it did and that's what I posted so I apologize for that.
I want to know if I can post a video I don't have to record the live data I can just view it and I can get all the fuel trims together if I could take a video with my phone and post it on the site that would be awesome

You can absolutely share a video video with the community. Due to file upload constraints, it will be easier to post the video onto an external hosting platform (YouTube, drive, etc) and share the link here.

Ok, for now I am sharing pics I took of my scanner hooked up monitoring live data.
First is oxygen sensor PID's.

Here are pics of fuel trims, map sensor/Calc load.

I can see the fuel trims can get to zero, but see no correlation of trim to Calc load or MAP  sensor readings.

ie- low MAP reading or high load = higher fuel trims as the ECM tried to pull the extra fuel out,

Meaning I feel the injectors "look" too big by the high negative trim numbers, but the load seems or is too high and the MAP is off by approx 5" too low
from what my vac guage says.

I think the car is running fat because the ECM thinks there is a higher load on the motor than in reality due to MAP and/or Calc readings

All these pics are of the engine at idle, so there should not be a 43 or 98 % load and 8-11" vac readings seem very low. The vac gague was reading 17-19"

I pulled the MAP sensor off the old manifold and want to temorarily install it to see if it makes  difference.