2011 Buick Regal CXL 2.4 is driving me insane!!!!!

Hey Tyler,

I was advised that it's a timing issue so I have to purchase a complete timing chain kit. How convenient.

A timing issue? :huh: That's kinda surprising to hear... Did you happen to get any more details as to the exact nature of the problem?

These 2.4's (and most newer GM's) are very good at catching timing problems on their own. They have specific DTC's related to cam/crank correlation problems, and P0013 isn't one of them. Here's another thread we had going recently on an older 2.4L with a correlation code:

scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair...ed.html?limitstart=0

You'd mentioned that you can run the engine cold with no problems, but run into the rough idle and stalling once warmed up. This doesn't match a base timing problem. The only thing I can think of that'd account for this would be a sticking camshaft actuator, BUT I think we'd be seeing cam/crank codes if that were the case. :blink:

Yeah I'm getting a second opinion because the repair cost is about $340 excluding parts. I can't find the kit here locally (Bahamas) and i really don't want to spend about 5-6 hundred dollars due to incorrect diagnosis. The error code p0013 does mention exactly on the computer "exhaust camshaft position actuator solenoid control circuit bank 1". I will review the thread mentioned.

Hi Tyler,

Me again, so second opinion is advising that the issue is caused by an oxygen sensor.. The other guy had replaced the up stream O2 sensor but not the down stream O2 sensor. I am now being told that I should have changed both O2 sensors from the beginning. (The down stream O2 sensor is burned out so he said) He is advising that the P0013 error code does not affect the drivability of the car and is possibly just an indication that there may be some loose wiring. He completely ruled out the timing chain issue. I don't know if I should just replace the O2 sensor or get a third opinion. I'm so frustrated at this point.

Dash Deshay wrote: Hi Tyler,

Me again, so second opinion is advising that the issue is caused by an oxygen sensor.. The other guy had replaced the up stream O2 sensor but not the down stream O2 sensor. I am now being told that I should have changed both O2 sensors from the beginning. (The down stream O2 sensor is burned out so he said) He is advising that the P0013 error code does not affect the drivability of the car and is possibly just an indication that there may be some loose wiring. He completely ruled out the timing chain issue. I don't know if I should just replace the O2 sensor or get a third opinion. I'm so frustrated at this point.

Your second opinion sounds much more reasonable. I completely agree with what he said about the P0013 not causing a driveability problem, but I'm not so sure about the downstream O2? I have a hard time seeing how it would cause running problems, either. Even if it has downstream fuel control, GM's don't give the sensor that much weight in fuel calculation.

I'm sorry, I'm not trying to make this more complicated for you! :blush: Do you have access to a scanner that can look at live data? We can guide you through some basic scan data testing to get a better idea of where the problem is.

Also, did you ever get a chance to smell the oil on the dipstick?

Hi guys, so I am still having the issue and recently had the vehicle scanned yesterday and received the following codes:

p0010, p0011, p0013, p0113, p0172, p0300 and p0443.

A number of things/cleaning was done as well as an oil change. Not certain what brand of oil was used when the car was serviced but we drained the old oil and replaced with Castrol edge synthetic oil, added a Lucas oil stabilizer and changed the oil filter. It is running a bit better but still has moments of rough idle but not as bad. After clearing the codes we are now left with P0010 and P0011. I can replace the intake camshaft position actuator but if this does not solve the problem I really don't know what's left to do!

Dash Deshay wrote: Hi guys, so I am still having the issue and recently had the vehicle scanned yesterday and received the following codes:

p0010, p0011, p0013, p0113, p0172, p0300 and p0443.

A number of things/cleaning was done as well as an oil change. Not certain what brand of oil was used when the car was serviced but we drained the old oil and replaced with Castrol edge synthetic oil, added a Lucas oil stabilizer and changed the oil filter. It is running a bit better but still has moments of rough idle but not as bad. After clearing the codes we are now left with P0010 and P0011. I can replace the intake camshaft position actuator but if this does not solve the problem I really don't know what's left to do!

If P0010 and P0011 are all that's left, then you're likely in need of an intake solenoid. It may be failing intermittently. Paul covers these codes well in this video:



A quick and simple test would be to catch it rough idling, disconnect the intake solenoid, and measure the resistance across the terminals. 8-12 ohms is specification.

Thanks Tyler,

I was advised to purchase the intake solenoid., I assume they would have done the test. Honestly since we did the oil and filter change, the car is running much better!!! No more jerking at low speed, I haven't felt the rough idle at all today and I drove for a couple of hours. I did notice that at a stop though it would feel as if it is about to rough idle then it balances on it's own if that makes sense. I ordered the intake solenoid a few moments ago. Hopefully this will solve my problems and it can all be behind me!

Dash Deshay wrote: Thanks Tyler,

I was advised to purchase the intake solenoid., I assume they would have done the test. Honestly since we did the oil and filter change, the car is running much better!!! No more jerking at low speed, I haven't felt the rough idle at all today and I drove for a couple of hours. I did notice that at a stop though it would feel as if it is about to rough idle then it balances on it's own if that makes sense. I ordered the intake solenoid a few moments ago. Hopefully this will solve my problems and it can all be behind me!

Got my fingers crossed! Let us know how it goes.

The fact that your symptoms got better after an oil change would suggest that an actuator or solenoid was indeed sticking applied intermittently. Also, if you haven't already, perhaps consider cleaning the throttle body? If it's dirty, then you're guaranteed to have idle problems.

Yes we cleaned the throttle body Fingers crossed as well.

Tyler, you were correct! When I finally took my car into the dealers, they were advising that the O2 sensors needed changing, after another diagnostic test, they concluded that the high pressure fuel pump was leaking into the engine oil. I ordered the high pressure fuel pump along with the ABS wheel speed sensor and dropped my car off this morning. I got it back this evening and it is now running like a dream with no lights on the dash!

Dash Deshay wrote: Tyler, you were correct! When I finally took my car into the dealers, they were advising that the O2 sensors needed changing, after another diagnostic test, they concluded that the high pressure fuel pump was leaking into the engine oil. I ordered the high pressure fuel pump along with the ABS wheel speed sensor and dropped my car off this morning. I got it back this evening and it is now running like a dream with no lights on the dash!

Sweet! :lol: Happy to hear she's back to running right.

Quite a journey on this one. :lol: The VVT solenoids, the GDI pump... and the misdiagnosis of the timing chains.

I know right!!! I'm just happy that we're back to normal

Hey guys, I have two quick questions. After all of the drama with my car, my check engine light illuminated again but with no drivability issues. I added gasoline and screwed the gas cap tight and the light went away but now it is back.

1.) Is it possible that I may have a bad gas cap? Should I replace the cap and see if the light goes away permanently before taking it to the dealer for scanning?
2.) I'm realizing that when it rains my AC does not be cold. It blows only cool air and a notice on the dash that says "ice possible drive with care'" Is it possible that this may be an electrical issue?

Yo Dash! Sorry there's more problems. It's still running well, right?

Dash Deshay wrote: 1.) Is it possible that I may have a bad gas cap? Should I replace the cap and see if the light goes away permanently before taking it to the dealer for scanning?

It's possible, but I'd be surprised. Gas caps normally take much longer to fail and cause Evap codes. I'd be interested to see the codes before replacing the cap.

2.) I'm realizing that when it rains my AC does not be cold. It blows only cool air and a notice on the dash that says "ice possible drive with care'" Is it possible that this may be an electrical issue?

Interesting! On the rainy days, what's the outside air temperature like? Like, actually near freezing, or not even close? Wondering about a temperature sensor rationality problem.

Okay well noted with the gas cap. Truthfully the temperature is usually extremely hot when it rains.

Dash Deshay wrote: Truthfully the temperature is usually extremely hot when it rains.

Gotcha. Sure sounds like a sensor is lying, then. I'll need to do some research on how the DIC decides when to display that message.

Okay. I will make an appointment with the dealer to try and solve the check engine light in the meantime.

Wondering about the ambient air temperature sensor. It's usually somewhere in the front grille, in front of the radiator/condenser. We could dig into wiring and stuff, but it might be fun to run the engine (and get the HVAC cooling normally) then hit the front grill with a hose? If the message immediately comes on, we're on the right track.

I haven't read through the whole post only the last post with that said I've found the stuck open evap vent valve to cause the gas cap code . Disregard if that's already been discussed

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