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[FIXED] 2002 Lexus LS430 3UZ-FE p0340 and p1350 dtc codes

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4 years 2 weeks ago #38934 by Jgrov2
So as per the title but, its a japanes toyota celsior which is identical to lexus ls430 even down to the exact same wiring diagrams. Ive transplanted this engine into a 96 Toyota hilux. Now everything works fine except Im getting p0340 (cam sensor) and p1350(right bank vvti sensor). Occasionally the engine will crank but refuse to start which i beleive is due to these codes. Ive checked and swapped sensors and no change, confirmed continuity along the wires to each sensor and checked the resistance of each sensor, it all checks out. Ive checked the timing belt, timing marks and confirmed with a timing gun. Ive even compared the trigger plates to waveforms and they appear to be correct if they wave form is as expected. This is where Im at, I dont have any way to check the waveform however, the voltage and frequency of the signals from both vvti sensors appears to be the same measured from the back pins of the ECU. Heres where the plot thickens, monitoring the live data from the ecu and manually activating the vvti solenoids, the change is visible on the good bank and I get nothing on the bank with the code 0 degree angle change. I know the solenoids are working because you can hear the idle go to shit. I tried swapping the channels over and could see the change in angle on the bad bank but no the good bank this time. I then tried to bridge the signal over from the good bank to the bad bank at the back of the ecu and still 0 degree change on bad bank. When I checked the pins on the ecu, there is the same resistance and continuity between the two wires for each bank so It appears theres no short in the ecu itself however Im leaning towards it having an issue due to not being able to get the ecu to read anything on that sensor channel. Should I still try and source a scope to confirm wave forms? Im leaning towards this model Hantek6074BE due to me being a little short on change and this fucking virus making things hard. Is there any cheaper solutions to get me unstuck? Besides swapping the ecu which isnt really an option at this stage, is there any other way to check or confirm the ecu?

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4 years 2 weeks ago - 4 years 2 weeks ago #38941 by jreardon
Kill injectors and coils by removing INJ fuse to remove possibility of high EMI and see if code sets during cranking.
Last edit: 4 years 2 weeks ago by jreardon.

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4 years 2 weeks ago #38959 by Jgrov2
Found it lads was a loose pin on the ecu socket.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Noah

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