Help us help you. By posting the year, make, model and engine near the beginning of your help request, followed by the symptoms (no start, high idle, misfire etc.) Along with any prevalent Diagnostic Trouble Codes, aka DTCs, other forum members will be able to help you get to a solution more quickly and easily!
Here is the list of itmes I have replaced as of now, all with new parts
1.) Both VCT's
2.) Both cam positioning sensors
3.) ECM
4.) Both Knok Sensors
5.) 16 COP's
6.)16 Spark plugs (Motorcraft Platinum)
7.) #4 and #8 Injectors
8.) Wiring pig tails for #4 and #8 COP's
9.) fuel filter
10.) oil and oil filter
11.) Valve cover gaskets
12.)intake manifold gasket
13.)Alternator
14.) Cat's currently replaced with straight pipes "temporary"
15.)Mass air flow sensor
Not sure where your at on this but Ford had a lot of issues with fuel injectors on the 3v motors. they extended the warranty. replacing entire injectors up to 120,000 miles. i work on these trucks a lot. good money makers. if the control works but the injector is stuck noid light doesnt matter. they stick open and cause hydolock and break Rods if they get bad.
garypuppet1 wrote: Next does anyone have the diagram of the coil wires to the PCM so i can test it at the PCM, also what should the voltahe be at the PCM for each control wire to the coils running or not running? Thanks I really appreciate it.
KOEO, the control wires should have 12 volts, with the COP connectors CONNECTED. They should have 0 volts with the COP connector DIS-CONNECTED.
"Knowledge is a weapon. Arm yourself, well, before going to do battle."
"Understanding a question is half an answer." I have learned more by being wrong, than I have by being right.
I have an 06 expedition and just did a timing job, but first of all what a nightmare experience this F-150 is, ok back to the expedition when doing the timing I found the thrust bearing were worn by noticing the gap it causes replaced Crank bearings as well got it all together starts fine but having misfires on #8 it's cheap to just replace the valve's and rockers doing that now. But after reading about injector issues going to see if they are OEM, Just hope this doesn't turn into a money pit
I have a mechanic helping with this he advised to put synthic oil at a higher weight do to the problems all starting from the 5/20 ford recommended do to trying to make these motors get better fuel mileage. European versions of this recommended 30 weight and never had issues like we do.
Garypuppet1, we are having the exact same problem. We have replaced all the injectors, coils, plugs, cam sensors, crank sensor, did compression checks, replaced the fuel pump module at the rear of the truck, as well as the throttle position sensor. Even replaced the PCM and pulled the O2 sensor to check for a plugged cat ... same result as you. Codes showed left bank was lean, and misfires . I'm not sure what to do next.
It fires up ( from a cold start ) and idles fine , then as it idles down ( 15 or 20 seconds later ) it starts missing. doesn't pull itself down the road very wel , but around 2200 rpm, if you back off the fuel a little, it smooths out ... still no power, but you don't notice the miss. We took it to a local garage and he couldn't find the problem either. Maybe it's an Ohio thing, because we are in the Buckeye state as well. Please let me know if you stumble across a cure ... we will do the same.
I would do a block test to check for a headgasket leak. I've had a similar issue to yours on my expedition and it passed every test for a head gasket leak so I stuck a boroscope down the offending cylinder after letting it sit overnight and I could see coolant on top of the Piston. It did not smoke like a full blown head gasket issue, it passed a coolant pressure test, compression test... You name it. Ultimately the chemical block tester confirmed it was a bad head gasket..and the visual inspection.
Same issue here. A bit more weird though. Truck was brought to me because the pigtail to the crank sensor had come loose. The fastening clip had broken off and eventually worked itself off the connector. Anyway, got to servicing the spark plugs, and boots (The truck ran completely fine right before the plug change). Worked on a single plug at the time, disconnecting and connecting everything back in its original position. Used Motorcraft plugs and duralast boots. Went to turn it over and 3 cylinders are missing on bank 1. Checked from the pig tail to the spark plug for spark, all good. Also the injectors, all good. So odd!! Checked all the wiring and everything seems in order. Spent one entire day looking over everything and still the same thing. So tedious
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