Crank no start

I have an 04 saturn vue 4 cylinder 2.2 L with just over 200K miles on it. It cranks but doesn't start. From the sound of the cranking, it sounds like the valves are working at least good enough to start. When I first started on it, I was told there is no oil and it won't start. When the problem first started, it was being driven and there seemed to be very little power response when trying to accelerate. As soon as the car was shut off, it wouldn't start again. I found out that if I'm jumping the car, I can get it to start by pressing the gas pedal to the floor while cranking. After starting, releasing the pedal slowly will make the car rev up a little then super rough idle when fully releasing pedal.
What I replaced:
Throttle body
Iat sensor
Map sensor
Battery
Air filter
I'm thinking it's the crankshaft position sensor but I'm not sure where that's at so I haven't replaced it yet.
What are your thoughts or ideas?

What is the reading of the coolant temp sensor?

I haven't checked. I didn't think that would cause this problem

I've seen many Saturns with bad ECT sensors go bad and cause crank no start, they fail and display -40F which floods the engine with fuel, I guess when we depressed the gas pedal to the floor you cut the injectors and engine was trying to start with the fuel residue left inside the cylinders.

Ah, I get it. I'll go hook up my reader.

Alright, here is a picture of what my reader says with the ignition set to on.
For the throttle position, it has arrows for the min and max when I pressed the gas pedal. Is that a normal percentage for minimum? Meaning not touching the pedal.
Then the coolant is sitting at positive 46°F
Vacuum is at 3.9 in/Hg

I've seen that too with Saturn's but I think the Viu might have a Honda engine if I'm not mistaken?

You've already replaced a bunch of parts so let's check the basics here. Any codes? How is fuel pressure?

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When I check for codes right now, nothing. But last time I checked, it showed these. I replaced the battery which may have deleted the codes.
P0068 powertrain
P0442 powertrain small evaporator leak
P0172 bank 1 system too rich
P0300 random misfire
P1599 powertrain

And I haven't checked the fuel pressure besides depressing the scraeder valve real quick and having some gas spray out. I figured it was enough pressure to gas some gas ignited.

As far as the engine, it's an ecotech engine so I think it's technically gm but I'm not sure

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You are definitely getting fuel, but is the pressure too high?

Did I just hear Paul say in a video that a timing issue could display these symptoms with the trims if it's a tooth or so off?

You're right, the Honda was the v6.

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The thing with timing is it's a chain, not belt. I didn't think chains would skip, only break. But belts could skip. Is that wrong?

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Maybe it could happen if the tensioner failed but I'm not sure. I would imagine you would hear the chain slapping around in there though. Have you heard this car running before this issue?

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Tutti57 wrote: Maybe it could happen if the tensioner failed but I'm not sure. I would imagine you would hear the chain slapping around in there though. Have you heard this car running before this issue?

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Yeah, there was some engine knocking because it wasn't kept up on oil changes. A little bit of a rattle but not much. As soon as oil was added, noises went away besides normal engine noises.

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Does it have variable valve timing? Have you done a compression test?

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Im 90% sure that it's not vvt but not 100% sure.
As far as the compression test, my reader shows it holding just below 13 for the intake. I think it was 12.8 with engine off. Compression test with gauges, no I have not done that.

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Did you relearn the idle after replacing the throttle body?

Pinto wrote: Did you relearn the idle after replacing the throttle body?

I did not perform the relearn procedure for the throttle bottle right after replacing it. However, when I replaced the battery, the codes for the cel are no longer coming up so I think it reset the ecm, which would forget the programmed idle... Right? But would that mean I still need to perform the relearn?
And during that relearn procedure, doesn't the car need to idle for so long? Because it's very difficult to get the car to idle. It has to be jumped, but even then it's still difficult to idle and I don't always have a second hand to rev the donor cars engine.

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Why does the car need to be jumped? Did it just blow through your new battery?

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Tutti57 wrote: Why does the car need to be jumped? Did it just blow through your new battery?

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Yeah, getting jumped is the only way that I have been able to get it to actually start with gas pedal fully pressed in and the other car not at idle. Even with new battery

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And when I first put the new battery in, I tried cranking it about 3 times then I heard it start to slow down (drained battery)

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