2011 Chevy Cruze w/1.8l engine (Codepalooza)

Codes in order. 1 through 5. C0050-06, C0045-06, C0800-03, U0140-71 and the original C0050-5A.

Pics as promised.

Unable to upload pics. I’ll list codes in order with description. (1/5) C0050-06 Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit-Low Voltage/Open. (2/5) C0045-06 Left Rear-Low Voltage/Open. (3/5) C0800-03 Control Module Power Circuit-Low Voltage. (4/5) U0140-71 Lost Communication With Body Control Module-Invalid Data. (5/5) The original [(C0050-5A) Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit-Not Plausible.

In the right rear wheel well is another connector that I suspect could be the ABS harness considering it has multiple wires and a pigtail comes out of it going to the right rear wheel speed sensor. Haynes repair manual wiring diagram doesn’t appear to cover ABS wiring.

Richard6767 wrote:

In diagnosing this problem I believe I've shorted out body control module. Pictures to follow, have an idea of where to start. Not sure where to start. Thinking Body Control Module.

The BCM? :huh: Why, because of the U0140? Or, are there new symptoms now?

Clear ALL codes and see who comes back.

I tried to do the bypass using the voltage from the wiring I wound up getting 0 voltage in every scenario, that’s why I thought I’d shorted the BCM. I’d erased the codes yesterday and did about a 20 mile trip for Thanksgiving one way and now I’m back at the original code of C0050-5A. Just trying to figure out how to manipulate my external power source for the bypass, I have an ES2500 BOOSTER PAC. Use the power port or positive cable on the clip of my incandescent test light. I don’t have ABS live data capability on my Innova 5210 so I have do this through my Everstart 10709 WDI Digital Multimeter.

As mentioned before, the symptoms point to a damaged tone wheel in my opinion. The open circuit codes would likely come right back after clearing if there was an open circuit/sensor.
Because it takes some driving and sets a plausibility code leads me to believe that the tone wheel has debris or damage or some similar fault. Possibly even rust/corrosion jacking under the sensor effecting the air gap.
In any case, without ABS data, you are left with little troubleshooting ability unfortunately, beyond what the code set conditions can tell us.

As far as injecting voltage from an external power source (if I'm reading your post correctly) like a jump pack: 1) I wouldn't You don't have any data to see if you're effecting the circuit, so this test provides little diagnostic value in my opinion.
2) even if you poke every wire with the positive lead of the jumper, if it's just sitting on the floor it's not part of the circuit. Any bypass testing must be done using the cars own power and ground

I agree with Noah, you can't use an external source to do any kind of bypass testing on this system. If anything, you learned more about circuit integrity when the C0050-06 code set. :silly: GM digital wheel speed sensor systems are excellent at detecting circuit issues, and your Cruze didn't have one until you unplugged that sensor.

From GM SI:

Note: If any of the symptom codes 0F, 18 or 5A are set, refer to the Diagnostic Fault Information table for possible mechanical faults or conditions.

With this information that you sent me I feel confident about getting the hub from RockAuto.

Richard6767 wrote:

With this information that you sent me I feel confident about getting the hub from RockAuto.

Sweet. Let us know how it goes!

Will do

Question on this topic. When I replace the hub will I be able to bleed the brakes conventional style, clear the code and let the computer relearn since my Innova doesn’t have ABS bleed option?

Richard6767 wrote:

Question on this topic. When I replace the hub will I be able to bleed the brakes conventional style, clear the code and let the computer relearn since my Innova doesn’t have ABS bleed option?

I don't think you'll need to bleed the brakes? :huh: If it's rear drum, the hub assembly should come out without removing the wheel cylinder or hardware. Bleeding won't be necessary unless the backing plate is frozen on the hub. If it's rear disc, just unbolt the caliper and hang it out of the way.

I had seen a video that shows my dilemma, just can't remember which video. The screw securing the sensor is right under the brake line going into the wheel cylinder with about 1/2 an inch clearance between the two. The screw is a torx screw.

Ah yeah, I remember that now! For anyone following along:





I always just left the line and WSS installed? :silly: But that may not be possible for you depending on how crusty the hub and backing plate are.

If you do have to take the wheel cylinder line off, no big deal. Cap the line while you're working to stop fluid loss. I like these little MityVac plug sets, but you can use whatever is handy.

www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6004-Vacuum-Line-Cap/dp/B007TMSNYM

When you've got everything reassembled, just bleed the brakes like normal using the bleeder screw. As long as you get the air out, and you didn't run the master cylinder dry, you're golden. The ABS will never know the difference.

Just a quick aside that I learned on iATN about dripping brake lines:
If you use a rod or something to depress the brake pedal about halfway down before you crack a brake line, it won't drip.
You will kill the battery with the brake lights if you don't disable them however;)
This won't get you out of having to bleed the brakes, just keeps the job a little cleaner.

Noah wrote:

If you use a rod or something to depress the brake pedal

Lisle hood prop works good for holding down brake and clutch pedals. Mine spends more time doing that than holding hoods up :lol:

After several attempts got hub out and replaced. My ABS light is finally off. I'll try to upload picture of old hub.

Richard6767 wrote:

After several attempts got hub out and replaced. My ABS light is finally off. I'll try to upload picture of old hub.

Nice! Well done. Thanks for letting us know how it turned out.

Quick update of what’s been happening with the Cruze since ABS fix. Developed coolant loss which prompted me to buy coolant pressure test equipment. With this equipment I diagnosed that I had to replace Thermostat Housing, but in not doing a very good visual inspection I missed seeing that the water pump was leaking. Since Friday I’ve replaced my water pump because over time sludge from valves has built up inside thermostat housing which caused a new leak and codes P0597 & P0598. While cleaning Engine Coolant Temperature found out that P0598 was caused by broken sensor. While replacing Valve Cover Gasket I gathered about 1 cup of sludge out of valves, also replaced Ignition Coil Pack considering cylinders 3 and 4 decided to leave their boots and springs in the sockets. I also learned from sopping up oil out those wells not to use blue shop paper towels, you spend more time pulling out pieces than sopping up oil. I suspect my neglect of valve cover gasket caused my two knock sensor codes. P0327-00 and P0328-00 not to mention P0420-00. Or maybe P0420-00 and P0520-00 can be grouped together under Oil Change. All these codes have gone away.

Now for (Codepalooza). Starting at the top. Engine Control Module; P2076-00 common answer is replace intake manifold.
Fuel Pump Control Module(1); U0073-00 Control Module Communication Bus A Off.
Electronic Brake Control Module(1); U0140-71 Lost Communication With Body Control Module.
Multi-Axis Acceleration Sensor Module(1); U0121-00 Lost Communication With Electronic Brake Control Module.
Steering Wheel Angle Sensor Module(1); U0121-00 Lost Communication With Electronic Brake Control Module.
Body Control Module(3); B2750-02 Horn Relay Secondary Circuit, Short to Ground. B3875-04 Windshield Wiper High Speed Relay Circuit, Open. U0164-00 Lost Communication With HVAC Control Module.
Inflatable Restraint Sensing And Diagnostic Module(3); B1325-03 Control Module Power Circuit, Low Voltage. U0140-00 Lost Communication With Body Control Module. U0073-00 CAN Bus Communication.
Radio(2);U0020-00 Low Speed CAN Bus. B1020-00 Auxiliary Electronic Control Module.
Remote Heater And Air Conditioning Control Module(2); B0233-01Air Flow Control Circuit, Short to Battery. B0408-01 Main Temperature Control Circuit, Short to Battery. All this information comes from my Thinkscan Max. Correct me if I’m wrong but by typing all this in, it seems like my focus should be on the Body Control Module. If I’m right should I start at the connector?

Is there an engine light or driveability issue you still need to fix?
If there is no symptoms or warning lamps I would shut the hood and call it good.
It's really not uncommon for modules to set communication codes even if there is nothing wrong with the car.